Jr Gent I vs Jr Gent II

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G1Pens

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Simple question.

What is the difference in a Jr Gent I and a Jr Gent II?

I am sure the answer is on this forum somewhere, but it is a lot easier to just ask than spend time trying to find it.

Thanks
 
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OKLAHOMAN

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IIRC the Jr. Gent 1 the tubes are the same size as the Baron and Sodona, it dose not come in the upgrade platings, and the threads are black enamel over brass and after posting and capping for a while the brass will start showing through the black. There really is no comparison as to quality, others might dissagree but the black threads are a dead givaway that down the road you'll see wear.
 

ed4copies

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Roy's comments are absolutely correct----BUT!!

That applies to the Jr. Gent I when it was introduced by CSUSA and it was made by their supplier in Taiwan.

NOW, at least one version of the Jr. Gent I is made in China, by a different supplier. So, the plating is an open question--as far as I know.

This is another case of the same name being used for different component sets. Are they identical to the original parts??? I sure don't know, but they are made by different companies.

So, best do your own comparison, buy one of each and look.
 

toddlajoie

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One small point. The Jr Gent 1 series does use the same tubes as the baron/navigator/sedona series, and the caps on it are identical in size to those, but while the body of the baron/nav/etc are the same measurement on both ends, the Jr. Gent 1's have a slight taper, the nib end is larger than the post end, similar to the STYLE of the Jr. Gent 2 series, however, the Gent 1s are smaller overall in size to the Gent 2 series.

Also the Jr. Gent 1s have a round nib end, similar to the STYLE of the Jr. Gent 2s again, but quite different from the faceted nib end of the Baron/Nav/etc.

Beyond that, all the recent Jr. Gent 1s that I have seen have been a bit lower on the quality spectrum from the Jr. Gent 2's or the Baron/Navs. Not horrible, and not unexpected from the price differences ( aprox. $5-10for the Gent 1s vs aprox $10-30 for the Gent 2's and Baron/Navs.)
 

Smitty37

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platings

Come on guys - I sell jr Gent 1 component sets in both Gold TN and Rhodium...(well I will sell it in Rhodium as soon as they get here).
 

Smitty37

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IIRC the Jr. Gent 1 the tubes are the same size as the Baron and Sodona, it dose not come in the upgrade platings, and the threads are black enamel over brass and after posting and capping for a while the brass will start showing through the black. There really is no comparison as to quality, others might dissagree but the black threads are a dead givaway that down the road you'll see wear.

I agree - but, if the threads are plated metal of any kind, down the road you will see wear. It is a matter of rubbing metal on metal causes wear so unless you make the threaded piece out of a solid metal that is the same color throughout (and I seriously doubt anyone is doing that except maybe the fella who makes his parts out of sterling silver) at some point they will show wear. Some platings will wear better than others and I am working on that. Now you could avoid that by making them plastic - but then they'll break.
 
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OKLAHOMAN

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And at the prices you sell them for they are a good value The OP asked for the differences, I'll concede the two platings you mentioned are up grade from the original Jr. Gent 1 but it still compares closer to the Baron than the Jr Gent 11.

Come on guys - I sell jr Gent 1 component in both Gold TN and Rhodium...(well I will sell it in Rhodium as soon as they get here).
 

Smitty37

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And at the prices you sell them for they are a good value The OP asked for the differences, I'll concede the two platings you mentioned are up grade from the original Jr. Gent 1 but it still compares closer to the Baron than the Jr Gent 11.

Come on guys - I sell jr Gent 1 component in both Gold TN and Rhodium...(well I will sell it in Rhodium as soon as they get here).

I leave all the comparing to folks who know something about it....I don't ever say my kits are better than theirs because if I'm honest I'd have to admit that I've never seen theirs.
 

ed4copies

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I can say with complete honesty, I have purchased 50 of the Jr I from CSUSA and 50 from Rizheng. So, when I make a statement (which I have NOT done here), it is from a position of having inspected a reasonable number of kits.
 

leestoresund

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I disagree on the taper. I think that the narrower end goes with the nib and the wider end with the post so that it tapers while being used.
That said - it's just personal preference. You're just talking a few thousandths of an inch.
Lee
 

Smitty37

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I disagree on the taper. I think that the narrower end goes with the nib and the wider end with the post so that it tapers while being used.
That said - it's just personal preference. You're just talking a few thousandths of an inch.
Lee
According to the instructions for the jr Gent 1 the taper goes toward the cap end. probably to allow a bit of overlap when posting.
 

Smitty37

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I can say with complete honesty, I have purchased 50 of the Jr I from CSUSA and 50 from Rizheng. So, when I make a statement (which I have NOT done here), it is from a position of having inspected a reasonable number of kits.

I wasn't being a critic...it is just not something I do.

I have seen csusa's apprentice jr Gent kits (as I recall they are made in China - but Rizheng told me they don't make them) but I've never seen a Baron or a Sedona in person.
 

sbell111

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Roy's comments are absolutely correct----BUT!!

That applies to the Jr. Gent I when it was introduced by CSUSA and it was made by their supplier in Taiwan.

NOW, at least one version of the Jr. Gent I is made in China, by a different supplier. So, the plating is an open question--as far as I know.
It is my understanding that the CSUSA Apprentice JR Gent I has NEVER been made in Taiwan. You may be referring to the original Jr Gent prior to the Jr Gent II being introduced, but I do not believe that this is the topic of this thread and is not really useful info since most turners on this forum have never even seen those kits and very, very few of them (if any) still exist for use.

I can say with complete honesty, I have purchased 50 of the Jr I from CSUSA and 50 from Rizheng. So, when I make a statement (which I have NOT done here), it is from a position of having inspected a reasonable number of kits.
I simply don't understand why anyone would make a post which basically states that if they were to give an opinion, that it would be the correct one, but they aren't going to give an opinion. What's the point of that?
 

parawood

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Isn't the main difference a larger bore of .5 mm in the II vs I? The JG II uses 12.5mm and 10.5mm drill bits while the JGI uses 12mm and 10mm.

Karl
 

Smitty37

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Isn't the main difference a larger bore of .5 mm in the II vs I? The JG II uses 12.5mm and 10.5mm drill bits while the JGI uses 12mm and 10mm.

Karl
The jr get 1 uses either 12mm & 10mm or 15/32 & 25/64 my supplier was calling out 12/mm & 10/mm but has now changed. However the fractional bits worked oik before the change.
 

ed4copies

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The original question: "What is the difference in a Jr Gent I and a Jr Gent II?" does not indicate the NEW Apprentice Jr. Gent I, so my replies attempt to cover both the original version AND the Apprentice version.

As I have frequently said, this is one of the difficulties of using ONE name for DIFFERENT kits, from DIFFERENT sources.

I attempt to be precise.
Sorry if that confuses some. (as it relates to post #15)
 
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Smitty37

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What's in a name

CSUSA markets Apprentice Jr GentlemEns Pen Kits - they do not call it a Jr Gent 1 or jr gentleman 1 or jr gentlemens 1 at all. Rizheng markets Jr. GentlemAn 1 penkits. Smitty's pen works markets Rizheng supplied kits under the name Jr. Gent 1. I don't know what name others give this kit, Aristocrat and Baron are two that come to mind but they might be for the II version..

The names are close but if one calls their kit by the seller's correct name I believe mine are the only Jr. Gent 1 kits out there. I will probably change it to SPW Jr Gent 1.

When I first started marketing these kits the CSUSA kits called out 15/32 and 27/64 drill bits and the Rizheng called out 12mm and 10mm drill bits although the tubes appeared to be identical. The CSUSA kits had a metal threaded insert in the cap - the Rizheng kits had a plastic threaded insert in the cap. Currently I believe both have a plastic threaded insert in the cap and call out fractional drill bits.
 
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ed4copies

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Just one tidbit for you Smitty--the Baron is the same as the Navigator (WoodCraft) In the USA, only Arizona Silhouette can market the Baron---both pens are made by Berea. The Sedona is built on the same tubes, with the same bushings.
 

Smitty37

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Just one tidbit for you Smitty--the Baron is the same as the Navigator (WoodCraft) In the USA, only Arizona Silhouette can market the Baron---both pens are made by Berea. The Sedona is built on the same tubes, with the same bushings.

I'll take your word for that Ed....I don't pretend to have an answer to the name problem but I do understand it.

My full name is LeRoy Stroud Smith....I have been called LeRoy, Leroy(which is pronounced differently) Lee Roy (pronounced still differently), Lee, LS, LSS, LS Smith, Smith L, Smith ET3, Smith ET2, Smitty, Roy, Stroudy, the Strouded one, L Stroud, Smithy, Schmidty, Smitt, Schmidt, S**tty Smitty and probably a couple of others that I don't remember. That does not include titular names like Mr. Smith, Unc, Uncle Roy, Uncle Leroy, Coz, Grandpa, Grandpa Smitty.

I can still be sitting at a table with family members and be called by half-a-dozen different names depending on who's there. My sisters-in-law all call me Roy, my sister calls me Leroy, my neices and nephews (including grands and great grands) call me unc or uncle Roy, my wife calls me Smitty, my grand kids call me Grandpa or Grandpa Smitty.

If folks can think up that many names for one person they should be able to think up some for pens. The problem there, as I see it, is that if they all have different names for essentially the same kit, comparison becomes difficult because few will know all the names. One more problem is manufacturers who are retailers and also OEM suppliers. We really have to guess if their OEM kits are identical to their branded kits (especially if the name is different).
 
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