Invisivue blanks---how do you turn these things???

[Dan_F]

I picked up a couple of these blanks and tried turning one last night. I get about two passes of my Doug Thompson skew and the edge no longer bites, has a burr on it like a scraper. This is on a tool that ordinarily holds an edge much longer than HSS. So, those of you who turn these blanks, how to you do it?

Dan

 

[Chasper]

I turn them with a scraper and skew, and my tools are cheap. I don't remember that they dull the tools, the problem is that they gum up and just don't bite, like trying to turn rubber. I mostly use a scraper on them, but I do finish up with a skew. I turn them at the fastest possible speed, maybe that would help

 

[Dan_F]

I turn them with a scraper and skew, and my tools are cheap. I don't remember that they dull the tools, the problem is that they gum up and just don't bite, like trying to turn rubber. I mostly use a scraper on them, but I do finish up with a skew. I turn them at the fastest possible speed, maybe that would help

It creates a wire edge on my skew after a couple of passes, similar to forming a burr on a scraper with a burnisher. Am I the only one having this problem?

Dan

 

[marcruby]

. Am I the only one having this problem?
Dan

I'm not sure if you are, but the most common complaint I've heard from a few friends who turn it is that, if you turn too fast (and hot) the can actually melt a bit. It's hard to believe that the stuff could defy a Thompson tool. Unless it's a bad tool. Call Doug. He'll probably want to see what's happening.

I'll ask somebody I know if they've ever run into this.

Marc

 

[Dan_F]

I don't think it's the tool, it holds up well on other materials.

Dan

 

[Wooden_Pen_Turner_11]

Odd....

 

[MobilMan]

Dan, I turned my first Invisavue last week & it seemed to be like any other acrylic blank. Kinda wondered about it after running it thru the bandsaw, it seemed to melt it somewhat. But it drilled, milled & turned nice. In fact I started sanding with 800 after turning it. Used it for a Cigar pen. My main tool, except for detail work, is a 3/4 spindle gouge. I turn all my pens with it. I turn lots of pens and only use the grinder on it maybe once a month. I dress it up with a fine diamond file mostly. I've got plans to buy a few more of those blanks. You might have gotten in on a bad batch.

 

[Dan_F]

Dan, I turned my first Invisavue last week & it seemed to be like any other acrylic blank. Kinda wondered about it after running it thru the bandsaw, it seemed to melt it somewhat. But it drilled, milled & turned nice. In fact I started sanding with 800 after turning it. Used it for a Cigar pen. My main tool, except for detail work, is a 3/4 spindle gouge. I turn all my pens with it. I turn lots of pens and only use the grinder on it maybe once a month. I dress it up with a fine diamond file mostly. I've got plans to buy a few more of those blanks. You might have gotten in on a bad batch.

Well, I don't know what to make of this. I've got some other pens to get to before I use that blank, I was just basically wanting to see how it felt, and what it would look like under the fairly matt surface. I guess a curved scraper would be the thing to use for most of the rough shaping, and easiest to sharpen frequently. It was pretty hard on my roughing gouge too.

Dan

 

[marcruby]

I talked to my friend and he said that what creates the dullness is that the invisavue actually melts. What you think is is a wire edge is really a bead of plastic. He said he might try to drop in on this thread, maybe he can explain better than me.

Marc

 

[Dan_F]

Thanks Marc, I hope he does.

Dan

 

[j_b_fischer]

This is Jim, Marc's friend ... I've turned maybe 3 dozen Invisavue pens (some SlimLines, Atlas, Cigars, El Grandes, and a couple of Barons). Here's my take on this blank:

It is a bit of a pain to work with ... until you get used to it. Then you'll really like the sheen. If you work with dull tools, it will melt. However, I'm learning through experience that I am probably turning too fast, so this perhaps a slower speed will let me not have to sharpen/hone as often.

I have a jig on my table saw for cutting blanks to length. I trim the end, then cut to length (tube length, plus a little). Even with a sharp table saw blade, there a little 'melting' ... a small burr that easily breaks off with my thumb.

When drilling the hole, I've learned to drill 1/4", and then add a little water to keep things cool. Drill another 1/4" and add a couple drops of water, repeat until done.

After gluing in the tube, I use a disk sander to square the ends ... more melting (I've tried 80 grit (too rough), 120 grit, and 220 grit ... all result in some melting). Like the table saw, this melting is easily broken off with your thumb.

I then start turning with a gouge to get 'kinda close' to the size. Then I switch to a skew with some planing cuts. This results in a smooth surface, almost ready for sale.
If I had a hard time, I might use the skew as a scraper to even things out, and then the planing cut. If I start the day with a freshly sharpened skew, and occasionally hone as I go, I get 3 or 4 Invisavues before hitting the grinder again.

I then use wet sandpaper, (400, 600, sometimes I jump to 1200); sometimes I use micromesh instead. I follow this with Hut acrylic polish. 600 grit is all you really need, but I've noticed that going to a high grit means the Hut doesn't turn as black. I take this to mean it is cooler, therefore less chance to the tube getting too hot, expanding, and cracking the blank (this has not happened to me with Invisavue, but has with Acrylic, Lucite, and some woods).

If I sand to 2000 grit, I almost don't need the polish at all.

Hope this helps...

 

[Dan_F]

Thanks Jim, I'll have to go back and see if I can figure out what I'm doing differently than the rest of you.

Dan