Info on making custom bushings...?

[mikemac]

I've seen a bit of traffic regarding people starting to make their own custom bushings.

SWMBO just gave me the green light to put more tools in my shop, so I picked up a small metal turning lathe. :biggrin: I probably should have gotten a bigger one.. but I'll leave that for another day.

I have a few questions, being very new to turning metal... Typically, what type of steel would be used? I know that Johnny uses O-1, but, if I plan on sanding using Delrin bearings, would typical cold-rolled be enough? Should I get Steel Drill rods?

I'm looking forward at a huge learning curve on this, so any info on any part of this process will be more than welcome!

 

[Blind_Squirrel]

I use aluminum to make my bushings. I would rather have to turn a new set of bushings than ruin a good skew if I happen to catch the bushing. I do not sand with my bushing in place.

 

[gwilki]

Mike: I use the brass rods that you can get at LV for very cheap - on the discount table. That way, if I catch it with a skew, it doesn't hurt the skew. The same logic as Scott.

 

[bad]

I do not sand with my bushing in place.

If you don't mind me asking, how do you sand without the bushings in place?

 

[Mack C.]

I do not sand with my bushing in place.

If you don't mind me asking, how do you sand without the bushings in place?

Hi Bruce; I never sand with the bushings in place, and only turn with them in place till I get close to size. Then I use the calipers or micrometer to size. This ensures your blank is perfectly round in the case that your bushings aren't perfectly centred.

Then it's a matter for sanding and turning that the headstock dead drive and the tailstock live center go inside the brass tube oneither end of the blank, and voila no bushing in place!

 

[leehljp]

I do not sand with my bushing in place.

If you don't mind me asking, how do you sand without the bushings in place?

This is called Mandrel-less or Turning between centers:

Picture 1
http://www.penturners.org/photos/images/940/1_Dead_drive_1.jpg


On this link scroll down past the first picture:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38361&highlight=skogger

Use Bushings to turn to "near" size then remove bushings for sanding to correct size and finishing. Also saves a lot of mandrel related problems that crop up.

 

[leehljp]

I am about to get my Taig metal lathe out and turn some bushings. I have some soft cold rolled steel bar like smooth rebar, but now that you guys mentioned aluminum and brass, I think I will go that route.

 

[Blind_Squirrel]

I use a mandrel, but I replace the bushings with cone-shaped delrin bushings that I have turned. I also keep my pen mill bushing in place to support the tube.

 

[Larry Gottlieb]

With the 7 mm size, I turn to slightly large diameter, then replace the bushings with segments of brass tubes that have been cut to size. The tube ends have been flared slightly.
When I replace the bushings with these tubes, I place a small amount of wax or vaseline on the blank ends to avoid gluing together when I use CA.

Larry

 

[sbell111]

Mike: I use the brass rods that you can get at LV for very cheap - on the discount table. That way, if I catch it with a skew, it doesn't hurt the skew. The same logic as Scott.

LV?

 

[Mack C.]

LV?

Lee Valley Tools!

 

[bradh]

I am about to get my Taig metal lathe out and turn some bushings. I have some soft cold rolled steel bar like smooth rebar, but now that you guys mentioned aluminum and brass, I think I will go that route.

The softer grades of cold rolled do not machine very well, they tend to tear rather than cut. Check out a machinability chart for good grades. Typically medium carbon grades machine better, like 1020 or 1030. Another good choice is special machining grades like 12L14. All these grades can be hardened if you want better wear resistance for sanding.

 

[KenV]

The cold rolled steel that is common in the USA is tough stuff to turn -- getting 12L14 or similar free machining steel from one of the metal vendors will make life much better. O-1 machines well in anealed form, and does not need to be hardened for such use. It comes with more precision and higher cost per pound. The difference is how much you need to donate to the swarf fairy.

For small scale machining, mandrel less bushings are much much more simple to produce as you do not need a precisely centered hole down the center.

I (like Lee) use Taig -- and am learning ot keep it simple.

 

[devowoodworking]

Ken and Hank, have either of you figured a way to use a dead center with your 'Taig'? Any ideas would be appreciated, I have some 'Warthog teeth' I need to turn between centers using 'metalmode' in my taig...:wink:

 

[leehljp]

The softer grades of cold rolled do not machine very well, they tend to tear rather than cut. Check out a machinability chart for good grades. Typically medium carbon grades machine better, like 1020 or 1030. Another good choice is special machining grades like 12L14. All these grades can be hardened if you want better wear resistance for sanding.

Thanks for this information. I wondered why I had such a difficult time once before.

The grading of steel over here makes for some difficult communication. It would be much worse than going to Home Depot and asking for 12L14 rods. :biggrin: So, I will probably stick to brass and aluminum as I have some good quality of both.


John,

I don't have a dead center (DC) to use on my Taig but It has been in my mind to make one. I have a Jacobs chuck for each end and I think could easily make a DC for the jacobs chuck on the drive end. I use a Rikon for my main pen turning.