Ideal Moisture Content?

[Plane-O-Joe]

Hi All! Another question. I've been reading about drying and end checking and think I understand the various products & methods. However, noone has ever identified the "ideal" MC. Can I assume it depends somewhat on the type of wood? Is a moisture meter a "good" investment? What % is "right", 10%, 12%???? Should I invest in a highly sensitive scale rather than a moisute meter?

Thanks for your thoughts, experience & input!

 

[1080Wayne]

Ron `Ideal` not a function of wood type . Depends on your local relative humidity , and probably varies from season to season . If your RH is consistently 80-100 % , 12 % may be as dry as it gets . If it is more like a desert , 6% may be a better number . I use a scale sensitive to 2 grams , and make sure the weight has been constant for a month or two before turning , but I`m in a 6% area . Most probably use a moisture meter , but I find them a rough guide at best . Wayne

 

[leehljp]

One good way around this is to stabilize the blanks when they are at least in the 7 - 8% range. Dry them in an oven on light heat, or in a box with a 20W light bulb or even a microwave. Then stabilize them in a pressure pot. I realize that not everyone can do this, but if it is possible, it will help on many woods that have considerable movement from expansion/contraction due to humidity changes over a season or two.

 

[jrc]

Try to keep it simple guys. The best way to see if your wood is dry enought to use is simple, drill the hole for the tube and let it set for a few days or a week. If you can not get the tube in the wood is not dry enought. I've done it this way for 7 years and it has worked for me. The trick in drying pen blanks is don't get in a big hurry. Cut your green wood in long 1" square pieces and stack them for a few weeks then cut into blank size and let dry a few more weeks.

 

[Nolan]

I dry wood on occasions and I will put in my 2 cents.
First what Wayne said about relitive humidity. Only thing I would add is that the wood will get down to around your areas lowest humidity. Then once the cells dry and colapse they dot re-absorb AS much moisture. I only mention this for an understanding of it as you should keep it as simple as possible. I do not oversize my blanks, I just cut to size and put them in a controled enviroment (bucket with sawdust in it) and give them time. The biggest thing is to dry them slow. This is what the saw dust and bucket do. The saw dust helps keep moisture around and to help buffer the MC changes. If you just have to have it now...put in in micro. Like I said I dry a little wood and this works really good for me. I would also recomend a good MC meter to use if you want to monitor your wood. Also a scale will work if you want to just weigh and keep track of it. I like my MC meter but only use it as a rough guide. If you have any questions just PM me.

 

[Boomer]

The wood will also dry as you turn it. The wood will heat up and help dry it.