I have repented....

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Warren White

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Aug 27, 2014
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I have been following (among other things) a rather spirited discussion on learning and teaching on the forum. It prompted me to share a bit of learning I have done in the past week.

The part about turning wood pens that I like the least is cleaning the bushings of excess CA after turning. More often than I like, the end of the pen shows me the error of my ways. I have modified my procedure, and the last four pens have turned out much better. I thought I would share my experience in hope of allowing someone to benefit. Others may not have the problems I have had, so this won't be instructive to them.

First, the repentance part. I was taught to sand after the application of CA. I was taught that I should sand with 400 grit to determine if there were any low spots. I thought "that is a waste of time... the CA will cover any low spots." Well, it doesn't, at least for me. I now sand after applying CA. I sand mostly laterally along the axis of the mandrel, then wipe the blank with my hand to check for shiny spots. If I need to sand a lot, I then follow up with a coat or two of CA and do the sanding over again.

One of the changes in my procedure was brought about by buying regular lathe tools. I bought a spindle gouge and skew, and as a result of learning how to use and sharpen them, I now only sand with 320 and then 400. I used to start at 120, and work though the grits to 400.

Now, as to the change in separating the blank from the bushing. I used to wait until the application of CA and polishing it was completed before 'cutting' the bushing free with a hand-held jewelers screwdriver, carefully applied to the joint area. Worked most of the time, but it made me crazy.

I now use the jewelers screwdriver, like a lathe tool, supported on the tool rest, with the lathe at low speed, BEFORE I do the last sanding with 400 grit, and BEFORE I polish. The sanding helps to break the connection between the blank and the bushing. In fact, for the first time, the bushing fell off in my hand when I removed the pen from the mandrel. I haven't tried it with delryn bushings yet; that might even be better. I just haven't been convinced that they have made it any better in the past with my past procedure.

I don't expect this to be earth-shattering to many (if not most) of the IAP members. Likely this is just applicable to me. But if I can help just one who is struggling as I have, it is well worth the few minutes it took me to write this.

I have learned so much on this forum! Thank you all for contributing to my love of this hobby.
 
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magpens

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Thanks for sharing your experience, Warren, in the spirit that has made the IAP website the inviting, friendly, and helpful place it was meant to me from its inception.
 

JimB

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It is good to hear you are learning. There are a lot of steps in the learning process as there are many different aspects to turning a pen. I'll bet your next step with a CA finish will be to do it without the mandrel and without bushings. Just mount the blank between centers and apply your CA finish. That way there won't be any bushings to separate from the blank.

Keep learning. It is part of the fun!
 

nativewooder

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Not just various aspects of penturning, but life is also a journey of learning. A very wise person told me many years ago that if a day passed when I didn't learn something, it was because I was dead!:eek:
 

eliasbboy

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I had terrible problems getting the bushings removed after CA. I would frequently get areas of cracked CA on the ends that would need repair.

finally I switched over to using delrin bushings for CA. They are available at many of the vendors here and now I never use bushings for CA. If it's a single body pen I prefer to simply do it between the centers. Just my 2 cents.
 
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Warren - Thanks for the hint. Going to have to try that.

I've had good success polishing first, then turning the speed down and being VERY careful with the tip of a skew, scoring the line between the bushing and the blank so the blank separates freely. Then I take the blank to the Beall buffing wheels to "soften" the edge and do final polishing.
 

Warren White

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I tried delryn...

First of all, I thank each of you who have commented and made suggestions. In the spirit of learning something new, I tried using Delrin bushings on a project today. A total bust!

First of all, CA sticks like crazy to the Delryn bushings I have. Second, since the bushing ends are smaller than the OD of the project, there is a LOT of opportunity for the CA to find it's way there in even greater quantity than with bushings that are the same OD as what I am turning..

Perhaps I am just too casual in my application of CA?

Bottom line, I went back to the metal bushings provided for each project. At least I don't have to clean them up as much as I do with the Delrin bushings. I also tried using a skew to clean the edge, but went back to the jewelers screwdriver because for me it seemed I had just a bit more control.

You will note I have spelled Delrin two ways, hoping one was correct...

I welcome any and all suggestions as to what I am doing wrong.
 

JimB

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I wonder if you are using too much CA with each application. Also, are you using thin, medium or thick? I use thin and medium. One or two drops for each application. Using too much will cause it to lump on the pen and you will get a lot of excess onto bushings.

As I said earlier, try it without any bushings. Just mount the blank between your centers. Just don't over tighten the tailstock.

For some folks, me included, a CA finish takes some experimenting to determine what method works best for you.
 

bryceprusse

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After you put the Ca on your pen, cut a grove with a parting tool where the pen and the bushings meet. Remove from the lathe and tap the bushings on a hard surface, you can then remove the bushings. Re-trim the ends of the pen with a sanding mill. Put the pen back on the lathe, Sand and polish. This works very well. Have Fun!
 

Warren White

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Jim and Rich,

Thank you both for the suggestions. I have tried the wax on the bushings, and it does seem to help, but I worry about it bleeding over on the blank and keeping the CA from sticking where it should be sticking. Your thoughts?

I suspect you are right about the amount of CA I am using. I tend to put about a 3/8 inch or so on the paper towel and rub it quickly laterally so it doesn't get all gobby on the blank. I typically use a couple of coats of thin and then go to medium for the rest.

As for turning between centers, I don't have the equipment necessary. I don't have the necessary drive centers. I am thinking about that, which is dangerous!!

Again, thanks!

Warren
 
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mark james

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I wonder if you are using too much CA with each application. Also, are you using thin, medium or thick? I use thin and medium. One or two drops for each application. Using too much will cause it to lump on the pen and you will get a lot of excess onto bushings.


I had that problem (and actually do not use CA much), but found that if I wipe the CA from the middle out, both ways, and not starting from the edge and going back and forth, I was "lumping" on much less between the delrin/bushing and the blank. And yes, try with a bit less.

Just a suggestion.
 

Mike Powell

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Warren, I have been around for a year or so, I still consider myself a noobie though. If it had have been for this site and the people on it that want to help others, I would have never made it in this hobby (at least not making money). 99% of the members here are more than happy to answer any questions you have.

Thanks for sharing the things you have learned. It helps even the old dogs sometimes.
 

JimB

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fYI, the two centers you need are not too expensive. I bought both mine from Grizzly and I believe they cost me less than $25 for both. There are other places as well. I know the $$$ can add up fast so even another $25 can seem like a lot.
 

Warren White

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You can teach an old dog new tricks!!

Just turned a CSI Perfume Holder (which for my purposes is used for Consecrated Oil) using the suggestions above.

That is, one drop of CA glue, applied center-to-outside, instead of the 3/8" worth across the paper towel that I had been gobbing on. It of course took more 'coats' than I was using before (I put about 12 light coats on), but it turned out perfect!

The bushings still required a light touch with the jeweler's screwdriver, but they separated without complaint.
 

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Simsonicole

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Apr 4, 2015
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As a newbie...I probably don't know what I am talking about, but I carefully go in with my skew (vertically) at the end to break the seal. It takes the majority of CA off the bushings and only leaves minimal amounts on the blanks. Bushings come off easy and a quick sand on the end takes care of any left over. Just a thought. Going to give Warren's method a try too...:)
 

oneleggimp

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Feb 23, 2014
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I saw a demo on CA finishing and the demonstrator took the setup apart and put on some old bushings that had a heavy coat of paste wax on them. No sticking. I do the same with wipe-on poly to prevent it from sticking to the bushings. I keep a small piece of rag in the paste wax can and I can just open it up and apply a fresh coat of wax. Works for me - thanks to that Demonstrator - whose name I have forgotten - SORRY :(
 

csr67

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Jan 27, 2015
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Eastvale CA
I use the plastic CA bushings and don't have any issues. I seal the blank ends with thin CA before I CA and wet sand the blank. A quick clean up on my offset sanding jig after CA cleans the ends up nicely. Question: do you re-seal the trimmed ends with thin CA after final squaring and before assembly? I have not been doing this, and I wonder if it affects long term finish.
 

endacoz

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Buy the dead center and live center from woodturningz.com. amazing service and some really fast shipping and handling.
 
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