I Compiled a Beginners-Starters List of Equipment/Tools. Please Critique.

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CoastalRyan

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Its been 16 years since I've turned a pen or even used a lathe so I'm not 100% green but I'm far enough removed from wood working that I know I could benefit from some help putting together a comprehensive list of what I'll need to get started. I basically have nothing as of now so this list needs to be as complete as possible.

I will be purchasing everything at once. I'm coming in at right around 1,900. I don't have a set budget but I want to make prudent and smart purchases.

I've searched and read for awhile now so I could compile at least the basics but I know there has to be things I'm missing and I'm sure it'll be obvious to you guys.

I need criticisms, suggestions, additions or subtractions for my list. Is there a better place, better product, better maker or better price somewhere else?

Lathe
- Delta 46-460 - 679.00

I get the impression that this is one of my better choices for under 800 or 1K dollars. I would like a little diversity with my lathe and some room to grow...possibly bowl work or other midsize projects. Amazon was the best price I could find.

DeltaLathe_zps05948c31.jpg


Delta Industrial 46-460 12-1/2-Inch Variable-Speed Midi Lathe - Amazon.com

2nd Choice - Nova Comet II Midi Lathe

NOVA Comet II Midi Lathe

Drill Press - Northern Tools Industrial Drill Press - 240.00 + 50.00 Drill Bits

Again I wanted some room to grow here. I'm seeing less than a 100 dollar difference between something smaller and something larger. So I'm going a bit bigger.

DrillPress_zpsae7aa4f4.jpg


Northern Industrial Floor Drill Press — 16-Speed, 3/4 HP | Drill Presses| Northern Tool + Equipment

Buffer Wheel - Wel-Bilt Benchtop Nothern Tool - 89.99

I'm clueless on quality buffers. Can't help but think I can do better here.

BufferWheel_zpsb48ca149.jpg


FREE SHIPPING — Wel-Bilt Benchtop Buffer — 3/4 HP, 8in. Dia. Wheel | Polishers Sanders| Northern Tool + Equipment

WoodTurningz had a number of things on this page that I think I would need.

Tools & Accessories - WoodTurningz

Centering Vise for drilling blanks - 47.95

CenterVise_zps9dec9f7f.jpg


Milescraft Pen Press - 48.95

PenPress_zpsda23157e.jpg


#1 & #2 Morse Taper Mandrel - 16.95 X 2

MorseTaper_zps05f111ab.jpg


Live Center - If I choose to go that route 17.95 X 2

LiveCenter2_zpseb1ed35f.jpg


Pliers and Punch Set - 27.50

PunchSetPliers_zps4682b4d0.jpg


Universal Mandrel for Delta Lathe - 17.50

UniversalDeltaMandrel_zps31abda26.jpg


HSS Chisel Set - 79.95 - I have no idea if this is quality or not. I do know that HSS blades are preferred.

chiselset_zps0407a49f.jpg


Amazon.com: PSI Woodworking LCSIXW High Speed Steel Wood Lathe Chisel Turning Set, 6-Piece: Home Improvement

Barrel Trimmer/Cleaner
- 34.99

BarrelTrimmer_zps498ff9c5.jpg


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18001&site=ROCKLER

Needle File Set - 7.00

NeedleFileSet_zps6e99a727.jpg


Amazon.com: TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece: Home Improvement

Band Saw Alternative - 179.99 - I was surprised at how expensive Band Saws are. It would be nice to be able to cut both wood and metal but I can't help but wonder if something diverse like this would be okay at both but great at neither.

BandSaw_zps0d05127b.jpg


Blade Runner with Wall Mount-RK7321 at The Home Depot

Klutch Disk Sander Northern Tool - 159.99

DiskSander_zps87a6318a.jpg


FREE SHIPPING — Klutch Disc Sander — 12in., 1 HP | Polishers Sanders| Northern Tool + Equipment

Finishing Supplies - 150.00 - I don't really know how I'll be finishing my work. I figure I'd experiment with different methods before deciding which I feel the best about.

I'm leaving pen kits and wood off for now because I was going to decide at a later point what styles I'd be interested in starting with.
 
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D.Oliver

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You can also do your buffing on the lathe, if you wanted to save a few dollors there.

Also in regard to mandrels why do you have both #1 and #2 mandrals listed as well as the Univerisal mandral? I know the delta takes a #2. Does the Nova take a #1? Are you buying a Morse taper mandrel and a universal mandral or will it be one or the other?
 

The Penguin

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get a Beall buffing system to use on your lathe (or the Peachtree knockoff), or get a variable speed grinder. You can use the grinder for tool sharpening.

you could skip the pen press and press on the lathe or on the drill press.
 

ianjwebster

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I'm still learning myself so take this for what it's worth!!! I bought a lathe and accessories second hand - came with a pen press. I used it until it broke recently then moved to a 'C' clamp. Personally the 'C' clamp does a better job for a lot less money. Similarly, the centering vice. On the advice of an assistant at Woodcraft I made my own out or a few off cuts and toggle clamps. Worked just fine untill I tried the PSI chuck for drtilling blanks on the lathe. Works like a dream - never looked back.
 

redbulldog

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There are a lot of people on IAP that really like to drill on the lathe. I AM NOT one of them, I dispise having to drill any of my blanks on the lathe, I have my Shopsmith running again (after the move), and will only use that method of drilling my blanks, I have much better control for every aspect of the blank drilling with my Shopsmith!!!
I will NOT argue this with anyone, this is my decision and it works better for me!!
redbulldog
 

CoastalRyan

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You can also do your buffing on the lathe, if you wanted to save a few dollors there.

Also in regard to mandrels why do you have both #1 and #2 mandrals listed as well as the Univerisal mandral? I know the delta takes a #2. Does the Nova take a #1? Are you buying a Morse taper mandrel and a universal mandral or will it be one or the other?

I have all those listed out of shear ignorance. I wasn't sure which or what was applicable. I'm so far removed from having used this kind of equipment I know they'll be a short period of relearning and familiarization with getting set up and the proper pieces to use.
 

CoastalRyan

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get a Beall buffing system to use on your lathe (or the Peachtree knockoff), or get a variable speed grinder. You can use the grinder for tool sharpening.

you could skip the pen press and press on the lathe or on the drill press.
I bookmarked Beall's page. Thanks for the lead. I'll skip on the pen press since a more than few here feel that its redundant.
 

BRobbins629

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I agree that you should also invest in one of the many tool sharpening devices out there. Many pros do fine with a low speed (1750rpm) grinder but many other methods are out there. How about some work benches to put this stuff on?

As far as turing tools, you might consider fewer than a whole set and better quality. Some turn with just a skew. Other despise it. The replaceable carbide insert tools are popular with many. A few on this site sell pretty nice ones and if its just for pens, that's all you need to get started. You can add others as projects dictate.

You will like a standing drill press - saves valuable benchtop space.
 

D.Oliver

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You can also do your buffing on the lathe, if you wanted to save a few dollors there.

Also in regard to mandrels why do you have both #1 and #2 mandrals listed as well as the Univerisal mandral? I know the delta takes a #2. Does the Nova take a #1? Are you buying a Morse taper mandrel and a universal mandral or will it be one or the other?

I have all those listed out of shear ignorance. I wasn't sure which or what was applicable. I'm so far removed from having used this kind of equipment I know they'll be a short period of relearning and familiarization with getting set up and the proper pieces to use.

Not a problem. We all started fresh at one time or another. I just went and looked and the Nova lathe also takes a Morse Taper #2, or MT2, so you will not not MT1, or morse taper #1. The differnce between the universal mandral and the MT2 mandral is simply how they attach to the headstock. The MT2 mandrel uses a morse taper, as the name suggest, and the universal mandrel threads onto the head stock. You would really only need one or the other, but not both.
 

CoastalRyan

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I agree that you should also invest in one of the many tool sharpening devices out there. Many pros do fine with a low speed (1750rpm) grinder but many other methods are out there. How about some work benches to put this stuff on?

As far as turing tools, you might consider fewer than a whole set and better quality. Some turn with just a skew. Other despise it. The replaceable carbide insert tools are popular with many. A few on this site sell pretty nice ones and if its just for pens, that's all you need to get started. You can add others as projects dictate.

You will like a standing drill press - saves valuable benchtop space.
Maybe I can scrap the smaller disk grinder and go with one of those belt/disk combined units. Jet makes a 2x42 combo that should handle any sharpening I might need.

You can also do your buffing on the lathe, if you wanted to save a few dollors there.

Also in regard to mandrels why do you have both #1 and #2 mandrals listed as well as the Univerisal mandral? I know the delta takes a #2. Does the Nova take a #1? Are you buying a Morse taper mandrel and a universal mandral or will it be one or the other?

I have all those listed out of shear ignorance. I wasn't sure which or what was applicable. I'm so far removed from having used this kind of equipment I know they'll be a short period of relearning and familiarization with getting set up and the proper pieces to use.

Not a problem. We all started fresh at one time or another. I just went and looked and the Nova lathe also takes a Morse Taper #2, or MT2, so you will not not MT1, or morse taper #1. The differnce between the universal mandral and the MT2 mandral is simply how they attach to the headstock. The MT2 mandrel uses a morse taper, as the name suggest, and the universal mandrel threads onto the head stock. You would really only need one or the other, but not both.
Thanks for clearing that up. That'll cut back on at least a little cost.
 

randyrls

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Ryan; The pen press IS redundant, but consider tools useful for more than one thing instead of single purpose tools. I press pens together with the wood workers vise on my work bench. You only need two chisels for pens. One skew and one gouge 3/4" to 1" size each. The pen mill isn't needed, just use the disc sander to mill the pen blank ends. I use my disc sander to sharpen chisels.
 

cagey44

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When I recently started turning pens again I jumped in with the between the centers movement and wow it is so much better than worrying with Mandels. I had started to have issues with previous mandrels being out of round when I packed things away to move. Now that I am back to turning the BTC seems like common sense. Only had one problem so far and that was user error caught a edge and blew out a blank when turning M 3 :(
 

Lenny

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By no means would I discourage you from buying a drill press, I have one and wouldn't want to part with it, however, You COULD use the money spent on that to by a very good quality Beall collet chuck and set of 18 metric collets and do all your pen blank drilling on the lathe. I realize not everyone WANTS to drill on the lathe but once you get used to it you will find it's very precise and the collet chuck has many, many uses!
I purchased the Harbor Freight set of HSS turning tools and have recommended them to others many times, but I do agree that one good Skew (1" would be my choice) and maybe one good gouge (again 1") along with a home made parting tool will turn any pen you ever want to make!
Certainly not an essential but the Woodchuck Pen Pro would be on many penturner's list of tools they DON'T want to give up! It will handle all those tough materials like trustone and antler and keep you from constantly running back to the grinder to get a good edge!
Just a few random thoughts, fwiw!
 

Monty

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When I recently started turning pens again I jumped in with the between the centers movement and wow it is so much better than worrying with Mandels. I had started to have issues with previous mandrels being out of round when I packed things away to move. Now that I am back to turning the BTC seems like common sense. Only had one problem so far and that was user error caught a edge and blew out a blank when turning M 3 :(

I agree, start by learningv to turn between centers and it will save frustration with out of round barrels. Also, if you go with Harbor Freight tools, look at their band saw and transfer punches.
 

CoastalRyan

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By no means would I discourage you from buying a drill press, I have one and wouldn't want to part with it, however, You COULD use the money spent on that to by a very good quality Beall collet chuck and set of 18 metric collets and do all your pen blank drilling on the lathe. I realize not everyone WANTS to drill on the lathe but once you get used to it you will find it's very precise and the collet chuck has many, many uses!
I purchased the Harbor Freight set of HSS turning tools and have recommended them to others many times, but I do agree that one good Skew (1" would be my choice) and maybe one good gouge (again 1") along with a home made parting tool will turn any pen you ever want to make!
Certainly not an essential but the Woodchuck Pen Pro would be on many penturner's list of tools they DON'T want to give up! It will handle all those tough materials like trustone and antler and keep you from constantly running back to the grinder to get a good edge!
Just a few random thoughts, fwiw!
I will most likely still want an upright drill press. I bookmarked that Woodchuck Pen Pro site, thanks.

For everyone, I noticed the Comet II has an attachment for a grinding wheel. That would be a nice space and cost saver. Does anyone feel that the Delta is that much better than the Comet?
 

wiset1

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This is just me, but I would lose the:

Drill Press, Centering Vise, & Barrel Trimmer. Now let me tell you why...You can drill ON your lathe with a "Dedicated Pen Chuck" and a "Drill Chuck"...link depending on which morse taper you have on the lathe you buy, MT1 or MT2. Less travel if any on your bits in the blank and less space used in your shop.

I would also replace the "Disk Sander" and get a "Belt/Disk Sander" which you'll get loads of use out of.

Not sure why you need the file set, but a cheap grinder from Lowes, or The Home Depot will keep your gouge and skew in business. I purchased the Carbide tipped set of 3 and they have taken real abuse with the segmented pens with brass and aluminum inlays. Not sure if HSS would have done that so I've been VERY happy with the Carbide tipped ones.

Hope this helps!
 

Jjcold

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Pen press

you could skip the pen press and press on the lathe or on the drill press.[/QUOTE]

I used to think I had to have a pen press, but I saw a You Tube vid of a guy using an Irwin speedy clamp (the blue and yellow one that you squeeze, etc) and I have used the same with good luck. Now, that said, I haven't built a lot of pens yet so someone with more experience might disagree.

Definitely get room in your budget for a way to sharpen those chisels, or go with the fast wood system of carbide chisels.

I have the Jet 1014 VS mini lathe and love it. I have heard good and bad for the Delta. Check your local Craigslist for used lathes and drill presses. I also bought my drill press on CL and am very pleased with it. You have to be careful, but I have only been burned once on CL and even that wasn't too bad (a DeWalt planer that was advertised as "new" when it clearly wasn't. With some tune up and cleaning, turned out okay)
 

Smitty37

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There are a lot of people on IAP that really like to drill on the lathe. I AM NOT one of them, I dispise having to drill any of my blanks on the lathe, I have my Shopsmith running again (after the move), and will only use that method of drilling my blanks, I have much better control for every aspect of the blank drilling with my Shopsmith!!!
I will NOT argue this with anyone, this is my decision and it works better for me!!
redbulldog
I agree here...I can have a half dozen blanks done on my drill press while I'd still be getting the lathe set up. I drill some on the lathe usually for a specific reason.
 

76winger

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There are a lot of people on IAP that really like to drill on the lathe. I AM NOT one of them, I dispise having to drill any of my blanks on the lathe, I have my Shopsmith running again (after the move), and will only use that method of drilling my blanks, I have much better control for every aspect of the blank drilling with my Shopsmith!!!
I will NOT argue this with anyone, this is my decision and it works better for me!!
redbulldog
I agree here...I can have a half dozen blanks done on my drill press while I'd still be getting the lathe set up. I drill some on the lathe usually for a specific reason.

Technically I don't have a lathe to drill on since the Shopsmith works better has a horizontal drill while holding the blank steady instead of the reverse like those drilling on the lathe. That said, I have a dedicated drill press and use it for drilling unless I have an application where the tilting base of the Shopsmith allows me to do a certain angle drilling task easier.

Having multiple tools does take up more floor space, but if you got the floor space having each tool set up for a particular operation bypasses time spent reconfiguring. But I think this scenario would be for someone who's been turning pens for a while and not necessarily a base for a beginner like this thread started out listing.

Once it's all hashed, I think it'd be fun to see a final list!
 

stonepecker

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If this is truely a beginners list of things....ONE good reference book is worth it's weight in saved steps. Keep it close by and when you have a question....go there first.
And like others have said.....2 tools are all you need to start. (Keeping them sharp is whats important) Once the bug bites, then you can try others.
 

Joe Burns

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I'll second drilling on the lathe. I find it to be much easier and more accurate. I quickly moved away from using a skew for turning pens and went to a carbide tool. For me was much easier to use.

Joe
 

jbswearingen

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I think this is a horrible list for a beginner.

Unless he's rich.


Get a used lathe on CL. Stay away from $500 mini lathes. My full sized 12"x48" 1971 Delta Rockwell cost me $300. It runs as well today as it did new.

Don't bother with a drill press. Especially some cheap POS that has a quill stroke of 2". Get a chuck for the lathe with jaws designed for holding blanks. It'll see a helluva lot more use than a crappy drill press. Then get a Jacob's chuck for the tail stock to hold the drill bit.

Pen Blank Drilling Jaws for C Series Lathe Chucks at Penn State Industries

Skip the sander. Get a cheap, crappy drill press and an end mill to square the ends of the blank. Or use the Jacob's chuck in the lathe's head stock.

Skip that mandrel. Get PSI's Mandrel Saver system--no more bent mandrels.

#2 MT Pen Mandrel Saver Package at Penn State Industries

Skip the pen press. Get PSI's magnetic press pieces--they mount to the lathe and take up less space.

Lathe Pen Press Inserts at Penn State Industries

Pliers and punch set? What for? I have the punch set, but hold the pen in my hand and tap the punch with a rubber mallet if I need to remove a piece--less chance of damaging the pen than using pliers or a vice (even rubber coated) to hold it.

Most centering vices for the drill press suck.


Yeah, I sound like a PSI fanboy. I'm really not, but they do put out some good products. I use all of these tools and love them.

Buy gouges as you need them. Don't buy a kit unless you like to have tools sit around unused. Most pen turners can get away with two, three gouges--roughing gouge (95% of my work), a skew (I rarely use, but others swear by), and maybe, MAYBE a parting tool, though these are rarely needed.

As mentioned, you'll need a sharpening system. I use an HF 8" 3700 grinder with a Wolverine attachment. Works great, though I'd like to eventually get 1700 grinder.

I hate to sound rude, you're wasting SO much money with this list you've compiled.
 
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CoastalRyan

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I think this is a horrible list for a beginner.

Unless he's rich.

<snip>

I hate to sound rude, you're wasting SO much money with this list you've compiled.
I'm not rich but just wanted to make sure that when I do make the investment I'll be doing it with equipment that will last, or won't leave me needing to upgrade in a short time.

I've entered a number of hobbies by just limping in with the minimum and always find myself spending more in the long run because minimal parts and tooling will eventually have to be replaced as things progress or get more serious. I also made similar mistakes with my business and ended up replacing a number of cheaper pieces of equipment with tools I should have just sprung for out of the gate.

You don't sound rude. I definitely want to save money where I can and the best way to do that is to get the cold hard truth from those who do this.

CL won't be a good source at least not locally. I'm in a pretty small city and there aren't many listings for commercial or advanced hobby tooling. I could look at some of the bigger cities nearby but transporting something 120 miles isn't very appealing.

What considerations should I make if I were to buy a fullsize lathe and need to transport it 100-200 miles? This has Chevy Chase movie written all over it but if there's little concern over damaging the equipment I'll broaden my options.

My other fear would be not knowing what to look for in a used lathe.

My initial impression was that I'd would invest around 2-2500. But the more I consider all the posts and the various paths I can take I think I can keep this a lot closer to 1,200.00 and still leave myself some room to grow and add tooling as things go.

I'll be sitting on this list for at least a short while so I can consider all my options.

You guys have been a great deal of help. Thanks for all the good information to digest here.
 

jbswearingen

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We can help in the used lathe department; you just need to ask. Heck, go join up at Old Woodworking Machines &bull; Index page -- we strive to keep old iron equipment in running order. We have a very active classified section there where you'll be able to find a good, running, competent machine for pennies on the dollar compared to what you can buy new.

I should have looked at your location; yeah, CL isn't a great place for equipment down there. Here, though, it's a boon. I'm just south of Baltimore, and not too far from PA, where old equipment can be found often and cheap.
 
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CoastalRyan

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If this is truely a beginners list of things....ONE good reference book is worth it's weight in saved steps. Keep it close by and when you have a question....go there first.
And like others have said.....2 tools are all you need to start. (Keeping them sharp is whats important) Once the bug bites, then you can try others.
This is actually something I shouldn't have over looked. I'm a book junkie. Are there two - three really good books I should own?

We can help in the used lathe department; you just need to ask. Heck, go join up at Old Woodworking Machines &bull; Index page -- we strive to keep old iron equipment in running order. We have a very active classified section there where you'll be able to find a good, running, competent machine for pennies on the dollar compared to what you can buy new.

I should have looked at your location; yeah, CL isn't a great place for equipment down there. Here, though, it's a boon. I'm just south of Baltimore, and not too far from PA, where old equipment can be found often and cheap.
I'll register and take a look. Won't shipping kill me though? Wouldn't a great buy on a 300 dollar lathe turn into 700 after shipping?
 

The Penguin

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if you don't mind coming to Houston - you can find some decent deals on used lathes occasionally.

in fact, I know of a 14" full-sized Delta that might need a new home.
 

stonepecker

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as far as shipping goes.......if you take the time and work with a person.....UShip on yahoo would be the cheapest way to get anything anywhere. You can even say "I won't spend more then $200.00" and then you have to wait for someone to take up the offer.
Many of the drivers would rather have 3-4 small/med shippments as compared to one big one.
 

stonepecker

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Go to the local library and check out turning and penturning books. Take a look at them and decide for yourself. You don't need more then one to start. And the information library here in the IAP is the best place to start. The information here is priceless, some of the best around, and free.
 

jbswearingen

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Ryan--

You might find a member on OWWM that's close to you that has one for sale. I'm willing to bet you'll DEFINITELY find one in a woodturners' club. You'll probably be able to snag a bunch of stuff for really cheap, if not free (unused gouges, centers, etc.)
 

Tom T

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Safety glass and dust mask (fiberglass type) or a face mask helmet with blower and filter.
Mandrel saver is the best, trust me on that. Save the trouble I had.
A/C for the shop is also good.
I use a drill press and a disc/ belt sander. Kept blowing out blanks on pen mill, especially two bladed model. Your photo showed four blades.
I also like the pen press. I have a different one then you listed. Mine has a black knob on it got it at WC.
Also have a low speed grinder.
I use the beal buffing wheels, not the three on the shaft. Each is used one at a time, unscrew one and screw on the next one. Got them at WC.
I like the delta, it is easy to use. I have a bigger powermatic it is great. My WC guy saw me coming in the door and well I was easy. But it is nice.
Yes I am crazy and like new stuff.
When I buy used stuff it seems to not work out well for me.
There is so much to learn. Jump in and be careful. It's a blast.
Also wear closed toed shoes chisels are sharp if you drop them.
That reminds me, buy a rubber mat to stand on.
 
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I use a
Dust Collector
Nova Comet 2 Lathe
Nova G3 Chuck with Pin Jaws
Keyless Chuck in Tailstock
WoodChuck Carbide Tool
Micro Mesh
WoodDoctors Walnut Oil for wet sanding
WoodDoctors Pen Finish
Pen Press
Cordless Drill
Pen Mill
File
I have been turning between centers and think I like that better than a mandrel I will spring for more of the between centers bushings as I need to replace the old ones. That is about it other then drill bits I would much rather drill my blanks on my lathe. I used exactly this same setup on my shopsmith loved it there too.
 
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Bowl Slinger

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As I always say, ask 10 different people, get 10 different answers.
IMHO I would loose the drill press and vise, go with the pen blank drilling chuck and a keyless drill chuck.
Definitely invest in a mandrel saver for when you use the mandrel and a dead center to TBC. I used to use a C clamp for assembling then got the pen press. I prefer the press.
If you want to make a wise investment, loose those cheap chisels and go with a quality set. The cheap chisels will just frustrate you in the long run because they will not stay sharp for long. With just about everything that I can think of, sharper is better.
You will need some type of sharpening system. I use the Wolverine system and it works great for me no matter what chisel that Im sharpening.
 
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