I Believe!

[woodmarc]

I did an experiment this evening.

I took a piece of walnut left over from one of my flat projects, and decided to make a "difference" stick. The piece is about 8 inches long x 3/4 Square. Turned it round, sanded through the grits to 600.

I then divided the stick into thirds. On one third, no finish. On third, I used BLO, Friction polish, caranuba wax. This is my usual finish. The last part, I used a modified Russ Fairfield Method of CA/BLO finish.


I had always assumed that a CA finish would mask the feel of the wood. WRONG. The finish was only a little smoother than what I normally use. I did not use a filler for the wood, I wanted some of the feel of the grain to come through, and it did. I am very pleased with the finish. I did not have the "plastic" feel that I expected from the CA. This pleases me and is the reason I had yet to give it a try.

I have some amboynia (sp?) burl that I got the last time I was at West Penn Hardwoods. This will be what I apply to the finished pen.

One thing that I did notice though. I had turned some beads to help divide the stick, and when applying the CA, the fillet of the bead had globs of CA inside. Any suggestions on how to smooth this out? The area is pretty small.

I am now a CA Convert. I will still use the friction polish for the "Freebie" pens. But on the rest, It's CA for me.

BTW, I will be using a respirator the next time I use the finish. Man is that stuff nasty.
[xx(]

 

[bob393]

Good expariment.
Thanks for the information.
Since there is no reason to reinvent the wheel I may start to use it.
I'm a friction polish fan myself.

 

[ctEaglesc]

Originally posted by woodmarc
<br />I did an experiment this evening.

I took a piece of walnut left over from one of my flat projects, and decided to make a "difference" stick. The piece is about 8 inches long x 3/4 Square. Turned it round, sanded through the grits to 600.

I then divided the stick into thirds. On one third, no finish. On third, I used BLO, Friction polish, caranuba wax. This is my usual finish. The last part, I used a modified Russ Fairfield Method of CA/BLO finish.


I had always assumed that a CA finish would mask the feel of the wood. WRONG. The finish was only a little smoother than what I normally use. I did not use a filler for the wood, I wanted some of the feel of the grain to come through, and it did. I am very pleased with the finish. I did not have the "plastic" feel that I expected from the CA. This pleases me and is the reason I had yet to give it a try.

I have some amboynia (sp?) burl that I got the last time I was at West Penn Hardwoods. This will be what I apply to the finished pen.

One thing that I did notice though. I had turned some beads to help divide the stick, and when applying the CA, the fillet of the bead had globs of CA inside. Any suggestions on how to smooth this out? The area is pretty small.

I am now a CA Convert. I will still use the friction polish for the "Freebie" pens. But on the rest, It's CA for me.
BTW, I will be using a respirator the next time I use the finish. Man is that stuff nasty.
[xx(]

Try a lacquer finsh, multiple coats.MM between coats.
You will use the friction finish on your mistakes,
A CA on your freebies and be totally amazed at the depth of finish on the lacquer.
Until you have tried it you cannot see into the "Soul of the wood".
It tool me a while to be a believer but I am.

 

[Skye]

If you go the CA route again, try it without the BLO. I've had a lot more shine with plain CA.

Going to have to try the lacquer soon though. Eagle is slowly talking me into it.

 

[Jim in Oakville]

Originally posted by Skye
<br />If you go the CA route again, try it without the BLO. I've had a lot more shine with plain CA.

Going to have to try the lacquer soon though. Eagle is slowly talking me into it.

Make sure, please, that when you use lacquer that you do in a well ventilated area and that you are wearing a respirator... I have a friend who is suffering life changing side effects from not doing so..

 

[ctEaglesc]

Jim-
I don't wear a respirator but I do use a DC.It is locatred right behind the lathe.
No fumes from the CA or antler and if I spray lacquer it does right in the boot.
I would guess those who feel it necssesary to use a repirator are not using a DC in thier shop.Me? I would rather be comfortable.

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

Now repeat the experiment on different wood.

 

[Jim in Oakville]

Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />Jim-
I don't wear a respirator but I do use a DC.It is locatred right behind the lathe.
No fumes from the CA or antler and if I spray lacquer it does right in the boot.
I would guess those who feel it necssesary to use a repirator are not using a DC in thier shop.Me? I would rather be comfortable.

We all want you around for a long time Eagle[]

 

[ctEaglesc]

Originally posted by Jim in Oakville
<br />

Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />Jim-
I don't wear a respirator but I do use a DC.It is locatred right behind the lathe.
No fumes from the CA or antler and if I spray lacquer it does right in the boot.
I would guess those who feel it necssesary to use a repirator are not using a DC in thier shop.Me? I would rather be comfortable.

<b>We all want you around for a long time Eagle[]</b>

UHHH I wouldn't take a poll on that Jim.
BTW remember when the concept of dust collecting was a souped up shop vac as discussed on the Canadian woodworking site?
It has a come a long way since then.

 

[woodmarc]

I use lacquer on the jewelry boxes that I make. I agree with the way you can see for miles into the wood. I am not sure that this would be a good finish for a Pen. I have seen some lacquers that have gummed up after a few years of Sweaty palms handling the finish (church pews for one). I have a couple of key chain kits that I will give the lacquer finish a try on before I commit to some expensive pen kits.

As for trying some different woods, I have some Birdseye Maple, black cherry and some white oak that I plan on trying it on in the next few days. I do need to get some different viscosities of CA before I continue. I only have medium.
Stopped in at Rockler, They had medium and thin in the store, 10 bucks for a small container[:0]!!!!

Who was here that had a good price? Gotta do a search.

One note, I tried using a none woven abrasive pad as the applicator. Not a good idea. It started to smoke while sitting on the bench. [:0][:0]. Thankfully I had a container of water handy!!

As for my woodworking resume' I have been making furniture for more that 15 years. I got back into turning when my mom was doing some house cleaning and came across some candle sticks that I had made in junior high, reminding me of the fun I had making them.
Like Eagle, I have a dust collector connected to most of my woodworking equipment. I use use it when I turn or cut anything. However, It does little good on fumes. And it can actually be dangerous to run while using finishes that have volatile fumes. (BOOM! comes to mind)

Anyway, I will be using a respirator the next time I use CA as a finish. (NAVY Doctrine "Safety First") The experimenting has just begun!!!
HAHA HAHA HAHA HAHA HAHA HEHE HEHE!!!!!

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

Check with Monty for a better price on CA

 

[ctEaglesc]

Originally posted by woodmarc
<br />I use lacquer on the jewelry boxes that I make. I agree with the way you can see for miles into the wood. <b> I am not sure that this would be a good finish for a Pen. </b> I have seen some lacquers that have gummed up after a few years of Sweaty palms handling the finish (church pews for one). I have a couple of key chain kits that I will give the lacquer finish a try on before I commit to some expensive pen kits.

As for trying some different woods, I have some Birdseye Maple, black cherry and some white oak that I plan on trying it on in the next few days. I do need to get some different viscosities of CA before I continue. I only have medium.
Stopped in at Rockler, They had medium and thin in the store, 10 bucks for a small container[:0]!!!!

Who was here that had a good price? Gotta do a search.

One note, I tried using a none woven abrasive pad as the applicator. Not a good idea. It started to smoke while sitting on the bench. [:0][:0]. Thankfully I had a container of water handy!!

As for my woodworking resume' I have been making furniture for more that 15 years. I got back into turning when my mom was doing some house cleaning and came across some candle sticks that I had made in junior high, reminding me of the fun I had making them.
Like Eagle, I have a dust collector connected to most of my woodworking equipment. I use use it when I turn or cut anything. However, It does little good on fumes. And it can actually be dangerous to run while using finishes that have volatile fumes. (BOOM! comes to mind)

Anyway, I will be using a respirator the next time I use CA as a finish. (NAVY Doctrine "Safety First") The experimenting has just begun!!!
HAHA HAHA HAHA HAHA HAHA HEHE HEHE!!!!!

Kind of a blatant statement don't you think?
When you are sure would you report back?

 

[woodmarc]

Definitely would. And If i am wrong, I will admit it. MY main concern is the same as what some experience with the different gold finishes. the differing PH levels of our skin, and how it reacts to different things.

Or am I thinking of Varnish? Can't remember.