HSS Brad Point vs Fisch Pen Maker bits
- Thread starter Mengtian
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jttheclockman
Member
My thoughts are I do not want either one. Those bits are too aggresive especially if doing segmenting work and the same with brad point bits. You will get differing opinions on machine bits angles but to me that is the way to go. A decent Titanium set will last you a long time and will cut any material and plus you can get a Drill doctor and sharpen yourself.
Fisch pen maker bits
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CREID
Member
I have brad point bits, One Fisch bit, and regular bits. The regular bits work best for me and I wish I had the money back I spent on the more expensive ones.
Just my 2 1/2 cents.
Curt
Just my 2 1/2 cents.
Curt
Are Fisch the same as Colt ?
I, too, wish I could get a refund on my Colt bits !!!!
And don't go with brad point.
I agree with John T. . I bought 3 sets of Norseman machine drills: fractional, letter, and metric
Expensive ? .... Yeah, kinda .... about $300 for all 3, but I think it was worth it.
Oh, and do your drilling on the lathe with a good chuck on the headstock.
Mark the tailstock end of your pen blank with an accurate center point and put a dimple there with an awl.
Use, firstly, a dead center in your tailstock Jacobs chuck and line up your blank before you tighten the headstock chuck.
Then, secondly, put the desired bit in your Jacobs chuck and carefully and slowly start to drill. If you want, do the drilling in two stages, the first with an undersize drill bit.
I, too, wish I could get a refund on my Colt bits !!!!
And don't go with brad point.
I agree with John T. . I bought 3 sets of Norseman machine drills: fractional, letter, and metric
Expensive ? .... Yeah, kinda .... about $300 for all 3, but I think it was worth it.
Oh, and do your drilling on the lathe with a good chuck on the headstock.
Mark the tailstock end of your pen blank with an accurate center point and put a dimple there with an awl.
Use, firstly, a dead center in your tailstock Jacobs chuck and line up your blank before you tighten the headstock chuck.
Then, secondly, put the desired bit in your Jacobs chuck and carefully and slowly start to drill. If you want, do the drilling in two stages, the first with an undersize drill bit.
MTViper
Member
I've used brad point and round point. Never tried Fisch bits. I've gotten to the point that if I need a new size bit for a new pen kit, I buy it with the kit from the supplier. My favorites are the ones Berea sells to go with its pens kits.
I just bought pen jaws for my Nova chuck when Woodcraft had them on sale last month. Love them. Had been using pin jaws and the lineup wasn't as precise as the new ones are. I think where many people get in trouble drilling on the lathe or the drill press is they try to drill too fast. I slow down my lathe to 400 rpm or less and clean the debris off the bit every 3/4 - 1 inch. Makes it a little slower but it's less likely to get too hot or jam in the blank.
Drill it straight and smooth and if you take it easy, just about any bit will do that for you.
Steve
I just bought pen jaws for my Nova chuck when Woodcraft had them on sale last month. Love them. Had been using pin jaws and the lineup wasn't as precise as the new ones are. I think where many people get in trouble drilling on the lathe or the drill press is they try to drill too fast. I slow down my lathe to 400 rpm or less and clean the debris off the bit every 3/4 - 1 inch. Makes it a little slower but it's less likely to get too hot or jam in the blank.
Drill it straight and smooth and if you take it easy, just about any bit will do that for you.
Steve
jcm71
Member
I took my brad point bits the grinder and then to my Tormek and converted them to single point, double faceted bits. They work one h___ of a lot better.
KenV
Member
I have all of them. Plan on sharpening bits. If you already have a tormek, the bit sharpening jig does better than a drill doctor. Best is if you have a friend with one you can use occasionally (my sittuation). Otherwise look for a drill doctor 750 which does a very decent job.
Once the through the bit sharpener, brad point bits TIN bits are regular bits.
Fish/Colt bits are excellent, but are not suitable for drill doctor. A tool and die guy can refresh the edges, but not me.
I have a few Fish bits that are just right for long drilling pens ( one piece slimline, one piece cigars, long clicks ) that I got on sale.
I normally use Norseman bits for drilling pen blanks.
I have cheap drill bit sets for utility work where I do not want the accuracy of Norseman.
The norseman set has lasted over a decade with a few replacements.
Once the through the bit sharpener, brad point bits TIN bits are regular bits.
Fish/Colt bits are excellent, but are not suitable for drill doctor. A tool and die guy can refresh the edges, but not me.
I have a few Fish bits that are just right for long drilling pens ( one piece slimline, one piece cigars, long clicks ) that I got on sale.
I normally use Norseman bits for drilling pen blanks.
I have cheap drill bit sets for utility work where I do not want the accuracy of Norseman.
The norseman set has lasted over a decade with a few replacements.
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Souths1der
Member
Put me down as another one who wishes they could get a refund on their Colt/Fisch bits. They were supposed to not heat up as fast and the flutes not get clogged up as much. They heat up faster and clog more. I drill on the lathe, and my plain old twist bits work better.