How to square/trim large blanks

[medemt]

I have finally got the courage to step up to some of the larger pen kits. Working with the slimlines and a few other 7mm pens, the barrel trimmer was pretty much a no brainer (however I did have a few dymondwood blanks destroyed).

Being fairly new to all this, I went out and bought a bunch of kits that use some very large bits/tubes, and as I pondered over how I was going to at least make a good effort at turning them, it dawned on me that I did not have the means (knowledge) of how I was going to trim the blanks.

If anyone would be willing to show some pictures of their jigs, methods, etc. I sure would appreciate it. I do have a disk sander and I am open to that, but was also interested in other ideas. I like to try all kinds of methods so I can see what best works for me.

If there are posts or tutorials out there that deal with this very well, could you point me in the right direction.

As always, I appreciate all of you that are willing to help the new (inexperienced) guys.

Dan

 

[Shannon]

I purchased something similar to this:

7pc Universal Barrel Trimming System: Steel Cutter
Item #: PKTRIMKIT
$35.95

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKTRIMKIT.html


at my local Woodcraft. Also when you buy some higher end kits from PSI they usually have a starter package that will include the bushings and the trimmer sleeves. Trimmer sleeves allow you to use your 7mm trimmer in larger diameters. No jig required.

 

[JimB]

You can continue to use your barrel trimmer. There are multiple shafts available and if those do not work for you then either purchase a sleeve of make your own sleeves to fit the pen you are making.

 

[Dave Turner]

I got discouraged using a barrel trimmer after ruining a Dymondwood blank and getting minor tearout trimming several other blanks. I bought a $50 Harbor Freight disc sander and am extremely pleased with the results. I spent some time squaring up the table and miter gauge with the disc. I attached a short hardwood board to the miter gauge with double-sided tape to give me a larger and more accurate surface to hold my blank against. I put a 120 grit disc on and it works great. My shop vac collects all the dust from the disc sander outlet.

I often round down my blanks to 3/4" diameter before I chuck them in my lathe for drilling using pin jaws on my SuperNova 2 chuck. This way I know the central hole is parallel with the outside of my blank. If I have a perfectly square blank, I can accurately drill it on the lathe without first rounding it.

I find the sander is much faster than the barrel trimmer, gives me better results, and I no longer have to make sleeves to give me the correct diameter shafts.

 

[DBMyers]

This is the jig I made for my disk sander after I damaged a number of blanks with the barrel trimmers. It works great for me, now the trimmers don't even come out of the drawer. I use trimming sleeves for the pen that I'm turning.

 

[Rangertrek]

If you want to use a disk sander setup, try this link for a tutorial. You can use almost any size blank if you have the sleeves. Or make your own sleeves from delrin or a hardwood.

http://content.penturners.org/articles/2010/squaringpenblanksonabeltdiscsander.pdf

 

[fernhills]

I use a disc sander.

 

[arioux]

Disk sander and you don't really need a sleeve if your jig is perfectly sqare to the disk, just make sure the top of your barrel sits tight on the jig.

 

[medemt]

Thank all of you for your input. I think I am leaning toward the disk/belt sander method. John, Thanks for the tutorial lead.

I have been noticing that when I turn some woods, I will use purpleheart since I just did one the other day, the barrel trimmer seems to have a tough time with cutting without burning the wood. At first I thought the blades were dull but I have not used the blade very much. Does the sanding process have drawbacks like this? Is there more of a technique involved in sanding down a blank? Basically, is there anything i should be awre of when sanding? Does the sanding method work well on PR / acrylics? Has anyone ever tried Spectraply on the sander?

Thanks again for the responses.

Dan

 

[arioux]

Don't put too much pressure is the most important. Let the sandpaper do the job. 100 or 120 grit is enough. I you use too fine grit, you will have more heat and some wood (like purpleheart) will get burn mark on the edge.

 

[medemt]

Thank you Alfred. Good advise!

 

[Rangertrek]

I do every thing on the disk sander, woods, acrylics, true stone, etc.
As mentioned above, let the disk do the work, slow and easy will get you a good square end.

 

[randyrls]

To join the thread; For all those who had problems with Dymondwood, Colorwood, or other laminated pieces, After gluing in the tubes, put a drop of thin CA on a piece or plastic wrap or other non-porous disposable material. Swirl each end of the blank in the drop of CA. If you are careful, you will not get any inside the brass tube. The CA strengthens the end grain and prevents tear out and splintering. Helps with finish too!