sundance66
Member
I just turned my first pen and noticed that pen bushing are avail for up to 5 brass tube sizes. Are there 5 different mandrels?
Thanks
sundance66
Thanks
sundance66
how many pen mandresl needed?
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rd_ab_penman
Member
I just turned my first pen and noticed that pen bushing are avail for up to 5 brass tube sizes. Are there 5 different mandrels?
Thanks
sundance66
All bushing have the same ID to fit one mandrel.
TBC and you don't need a mandrel.
Les
At least one manufacturer, Bear Tooth Woods, does have an A and a thicker B size mandrel but it is not at all the norm.
Woodchipper
Member
MTViper
Member
Berea also offers the "B" mandrel which is slightly larger than the standard or "A" mandrel. I don't have many kits that require the "B" mandrel. For a few kits I have both "A" and "B" bushings. I don't know of any kits that have only "B" mandrel bushings. The "B" mandrel doesn't work with most mandrel savers. Once I started using the mandrel saver, my use of the "B" mandrel dropped.
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
Berea introduced the "B" mandrel years ago. It is a little larger diameter and was used for the larger pen bodies that were exclusive to Berea and their resellers (Bear Tooth Woods is one, as stated above).
"B" bushings were available for the Cambridge-Churchill, the "new series" and the perfect fit--there may be others. But, it never really caught on, so now you can get 'A" bushings ("7 mm") to fit all their kits.
To answer your question, you only need one mandrel, if you choose to turn with a mandrel (yes, you can turn without one, known as "turning between centers"). I would recommend a variable length mandrel, because it is much more difficult to bend and can easily be used with a mandrel saver in the tailstock.
"B" bushings were available for the Cambridge-Churchill, the "new series" and the perfect fit--there may be others. But, it never really caught on, so now you can get 'A" bushings ("7 mm") to fit all their kits.
To answer your question, you only need one mandrel, if you choose to turn with a mandrel (yes, you can turn without one, known as "turning between centers"). I would recommend a variable length mandrel, because it is much more difficult to bend and can easily be used with a mandrel saver in the tailstock.
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MRDucks2
Member
So are those collets used on each end to hold stubs for the nylon bushings/centers?
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Paul in OKC
Member
I have had the A and B mandrels for years, but basically only use the A as there are bushing for any pen with that hole.
leehljp
Member Liaison
Simplicity of TBC:
1. Put one of these in the head stock:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/HSS-Lathe-Center-MT2/H5789?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com
2. Put one of these in the tail stock:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Live-Center-MT2/H3408?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com
Put your blank (with or without bushings) between them, pull the tail stock up tight and turn.
When new, (unless you are already a proficient turner) it is best to use bushings until it gets round, then take the bushings off and finish turning to size. Determine the size with calipers, not bushings. Bushings are consumables. They wear down when sanded or accidentally hit a few times with the turning tools.
If you don't use bushings to get the blank round, (until experienced), you may flare the ends of the tubes.
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crokett
Member
one disadvantage to TBC is for 2 piece pen kits you have to turn one piece, then turn the other. using a mandrel you can get both blanks on the mandrel at the same time. Speaking for myself, seeing both halves of a pen like that helps greatly with relative sizing when I'm designing it. Frequently I have a design I've sketched (or in my head) that when I start approaching finished size on the blanks I realize it doesn't look as good as I imagined.
with TBC there would be a lot of switching back and forth to make sure the halves fit together.
with TBC there would be a lot of switching back and forth to make sure the halves fit together.
leehljp
Member Liaison
Naawww. That is what the mind is for! :biggrin: We have two sides of our brains; just hold one image on one side and the other image on the other side and visualize! :biggrin:
I personally have never had a problem with two part pens doing one at a time and not matching the grain end, or segments or castings. If they don't fit together, it is not a matter of how they were turned, but how badly they were cut. (Been there, done that.)
For me the clincher in using TBC was seeing CA lift on oily blanks when separating the bushings. Once I tried TBC (originally I called it "mandrelless") there was no turning back. I was looking at 5 mandrels tonight in a shop drawer tonight (one 7mm) and wondered why I ever bought them. I think I haven't used them in 9 or 10 years, except for making some duck calls a few years ago.
BTW, do you still have your old BT3x or did you get a new saw?
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crokett
Member
Some of us aren't very good at translating what we see in our brain to our fingers. :wink: I have a brother who can do it. I can't.
I don't have a TS now. I sold my BT3K last summer and haven't replaced it. My shop at the new place is much smaller and I don't plan to do flatwork again any time soon.
randyrls
Member
The only time I use a pen mandrel is for making comfort pens and other tapered pens. It helps e create a smooth even curve from one end to the other. BUT I remove the center bushing to do this.