How long do Micro Mesh pads last

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beep119

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May 19, 2015
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Just wondering how long people consider micro mesh pads last, whats the life span on them? Or how many pens do you make then get new ones?
I am meaning the ones that are the little square foam pads you buy together.

Thanks
 
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Joey-Nieves

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It all depends on many things but, if you do the process and the pen does not shine then they are dull. I use a dab of Blue Magic or Mothers as a final step. Brings up the shine, cleans off any marks and gives you a little more life to the micro mesh.

Joey
 

SDB777

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Cabot, Arkansas USA
Been old to put them inside a sock, tie the sock(so they can't fall out), and then run them through the laundry. It's supposed to get the 'stuff' out of the mesh, and make them 'like new'.

My biggest issue is I keep 'scorching' small patches from time-to-time....



Scott (wet sand a lot) B
 

Notscottish

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As long as you do not melt the pads by overheating they last a very long time. I periodically clean them with soap and water in a colander at the kitchen sink and they are almost as good as new.
 

Dalecamino

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Been old to put them inside a sock, tie the sock(so they can't fall out), and then run them through the laundry. It's supposed to get the 'stuff' out of the mesh, and make them 'like new'.

My biggest issue is I keep 'scorching' small patches from time-to-time....



Scott (wet sand a lot) B
Scott, have you done this? Run them through the laundry? Does it really do anything to bring them back to sanding life? I have a set that, I just realized how old they are :redface::biggrin:
 

SteveG

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I tend to disagree with the notion that MM will last a long, long time. I feel confident that if one of you "long lifers" were to do the sock and laundry thing, then do a comparison test (make some pens) using the long life set vs. a new set, you would be ready to promptly dispose of the old stuff.

I will add this comment. The MM pads will continue to perform the function that they are intended for, even after even after extended use (unless scorched or "glazed"). But they will do it at a significantly reduced rate. I really like to do the job, do it well, and do it quickly. So I replace my MM as well as all other abrasives I use as soon as they show reduced efficiency. My time and enjoyment of the work I do is worth much more than some small dollar amount saved by using MM well past its useful service life.
 

TDE

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Jan 31, 2012
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Tuckerman Ar.
When mine are shot I can still see lines in my ca. Makes me mad to use them then still see lines. Out with the old and in with the new. Also when I buy micro mesh I get the larger pads and cut them into four pieces, number each pad with a sharpie,then they are easy to keep in order when you drop them.
Happy turning, Ted:)
 

TonyL

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I don't use any more, but when I did, I would discard after 50 to 75 barrels I literally used to mark each use. They were still petty good, but I was not obtaining the finish I would achieve with new pads. I didn't like throwing them out know that many use them much longer. I used to clean them between each use with warm water and a toothbrush - I think that helped some. I hear folks use them much, much longer than that and achieve an excellent finish too. I just couldn't do it.
 

duncsuss

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I recently converted to the same opinion as SteveG.

Last time I bought MM I got the color-coded "sticks" (with 4 grits per stick) instead of the color-coded square pads. I started out just using the inch nearest the tip.

After a while, I found myself sliding up the stick to get fresh unused grit -- and eventually reached the point where I can tell the entire stick is no longer cutting as efficiently as it did when they were new.

It's really easy to see if the grit is cutting or not -- especially if you wet sand (as I do). Does it quickly form a slurry in the water puddle this side of the blank you're sanding? If not, it's time for new stuff.

I will try running them through the washing machine and see if it rejuvenates them, but I don't hold out much hope.
 

Joey-Nieves

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I know from experience that all of the above is correct but not the only way.
After experimenting I found that all we really need to do is close the pores on the finish.

Shine is obtain by the best reflection of light, less pores more shine more pores, well you guys get it. So how do we close the pores? There are various ways most expensive ones have been discussed above. I needed to come up with a more cheap way to polish my pens, From Nov to yesterday I made over 300 slim lines, maybe 400 pens in total and Micromesh is just to expensive.

I use different grits of regular sand paper wrapped in the worn micromesh sponge; 320, 600, 800, 1500, 3000 and 5000 last 2 are 3m sponges then I use a little blue magic or mothers to bring up the shine.
I also found the 3m gray course, medium fine, ultrafine, microfine superfine sponges at the automotive paint store work great but They don't bring them regularly to Puerto Rico.
 
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Life of Micro Mesh Pads

I find the courser 2 or 3 grades wear off on the edges (don't really have a good feel for how long it takes). Using too much pressure will do it very quickly. The really fine one seem to wear for a very long time. I would like to be able to replace the courser ones more frequently than the finer one. I also like to use a polish of some kind even after the 12000 MM. I use Stick Fast Gloss polish and I think it gives just a little nice shine.
 

Charlie69

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Apr 12, 2013
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Buffing wheels with tripoli & white diamond compound. Dirt cheap and last forever. No need to buy a dedicated buffer or overpriced buffing toys: buff on the lathe, make your own buffing set up with inexpensive threaded rod. Or do what I do and buy wheels with a 1/4 hole and mount em on the pen mandrel I never used.
 

TonyL

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I have drawn-up step by step plans with pictures as to how to build those buffers. I also use compounds that are two finer that white diamond (also inexpensive) - so 4 stages all together. If any one is interested, I will send. I thought I submitted to the library, but may I dreamt that I did LOL. I no longer wet sand or use MM and achieve scratch-free under a 10x loop even on dark colors. The process is for CA and non-wood/plastic/acrylic finishes.
 

Wildman

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Jan 12, 2008
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Jacksonville, NC, USA.
I use this style when wet sanding & polishing. Some people use walnut oil, but think mineral oil less expensive. If using dry will wear out faster.

Micro Mesh: Pen Kit Making Supplies Berea HardWoods

Have never used this style or smaller colored pads.

https://www.pennstateind.com/graphics/400px/MMESHPADS9.jpg

Conversion Chart
Micro-Mesh® Grit Size Conversion Chart

Should think about little note at bottom of chart important to remember about variations between manufactured quality and how you use the product too.

All manufacturers' abrasives differ slightly. Grit sizes, microns and inches may be approximate in some instances.
 
Last edited:

farmer

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Jun 16, 2012
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NV
Tee shirt

There is better way...or technic then using micro mesh imo.

I sand with 320
then use
Heavy Cut Cleaner | Meguiar's
Then
Medium Cut Cleaner | Meguiar's
Then
Fine Cut Cleaner | Meguiar's
Then
Show Car Glaze - 16oz | Meguiar's

Farmer

Mike
How do you apply the maguiars with towels or buffing pads?
Thanks

Tee shirt. I use the same piece of torn up tee shirt ( rag ) From coarse grit to fine grit .
I use a different rag for the Show glaze and I use the show glaze by hand only.
show glaze is sticky at first and the rag/towel will want to get wrapped around your project if your lathe is on.
 
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