how dry is dry enough

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Munsterlander

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OK, so I've been through the newbie experience of having a few nice barrels develop cracks in the CA finish within a day or so because they just weren't dry enough. I bought a good moisture meter (Micro Ligno) so I can check - but I'm not sure how dry it really has to be. On the low-moisture content setting the meter has steps at 6, 8, 10, and higher. Do I have to be all the way down to 6 on everything? I've had some dialium cochin air drying now for a few months and it doesn't seem to ever want to go below 10 - is that safe?

Sorry if this is a repeat question, I did a quick search and didn't find an obvious thread about it...

Thanks!
 
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fiferb

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Does your shop have any exposed 2x4 studs? Check the moisture in them, they should be at equilibrium moisture content with the air in your shop. The wood you use should be at least this dry.
 

robutacion

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Hi Munsterlander,

Even tough you are making a simple question, the answer is not that simple!

There are an enormous number of factors that can make the wood crack in small pieces like the pen barrels. There is green, green and wet, dry and wet, semi-dry, dry and old dry.

The moisture meter is an excellent tool to have, to keep and eye on what the timbers are at but accurate readings are only possible with instruments costing thousands of dollars. Don't panic, I've got a digital $50 one and is good enough for me to get the results I need. The "ideal" moisture content level, varies from timber to timber, generally anything around 12% is considered dry, this is indeed the average percentage the timbers come out at from the large industrial kilns.

I have turned successfully timbers at 20% of MC that didn't crack or move, I have had problems with timbers turned, reading 3% MC so, this is the difficult part!

I would try to keep this as simple as I can so, consider 12%MC as your target for dry wood, anything higher like 12% to 20% MC as semi-dry, after that is either green or wet, with 38% been a fresh green log, if soaked wet the meter will go around 40%MC.

Particularly with pen making, many barrels are destroyed with cracks (small or large), due to extreme hit from sanding or polishing/buffing, this become more an issue, as the timber reads a higher MC content so as you see, there is no such thing as a unique reason why your barrels are getting cracked but indeed, a serious of factors that can contribute for such results.

I'm sorry is this doesn't help you but, that's my simpler version of a very complicated and technical issue!

Cheers
George
 

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Munsterlander

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Thanks Bruce - most of it is drywalled, but I think there are a couple over by the garage door that I can get to - I'll check.

Thanks George - coincidentally the woods I'm having the most trouble with are Australian species - mallees (red, brown and effusa) in particular. So if you have any advice on working with those I'd welcome it.
 

Munsterlander

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If in doubt...
Drill your blanks. Wait a couple of days. dry-fit your tubes. Do they bind? Probably still drying.

Good point. By accident I did this with some apple wood a while back and it bound like crazy when I got back to it a week later. Hadn't thought of using that as part of my normal routine for suspect blanks. Thanks.
 

philb

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Good point. By accident I did this with some apple wood a while back and it bound like crazy when I got back to it a week later. Hadn't thought of using that as part of my normal routine for suspect blanks. Thanks.

The only problem with leaving them drilled, is that although they may move due to the wood still being wet, They may move through stress and pressure relesingnon the timber. Especially with highly figured burrs. As I've had some mallee that's been kiln dried and then sat around for a couple if years, and that binds as soon as it's drilled. Same with some crotch oak and walnut I have?

Phil
 
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