How do you make this pen ?

[PenWorks]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4919548560&fromMakeTrack=true

This is a link to one of Mark's pens. I think this style is great looking. No tubes, no caps. It is made the way most good Italian pens are made.

Any clues ? I have been experimenting with not much luck.
thanks, Anthony

 

[tipusnr]

Out of curiosity...how do you know there are no tubes in the resin blanks?

 

[C_Ludwigsen]

Looks like a standard "El Grande" kit with an endcap made of the same material. I nice job on it. But I wouldn't take the very last pic - which is where he is showing the replacement cartridges - to be the entire kit. I would suspect it has tubes. Still - a very nice pen.

Check the Craft Supplies USA website.

Chuck...

 

[daledut]

If you read his descriptions in his auctions, he states that they are machined from solid blocks (no tubes). I also recall on the Yahoo group that someone contacted him and verified that they are made without tubes.

The term "machined" is important. These pens are made with a CNC machine, not by hand. That is not to diminish the beauty of his pens, but they are made differently than we do it.

 

[Bev Polmanteer]

Ya and that CNC machine is about $7000.00 but it makes a pen in nothing flat!

 

[dw]

Look closely at the lower body of his pens. Read the descrpition. And notice that he offers a pump as well as a cartridge. Understand that if he were using a tube it would show up as lighter--the brass actually shows throught the acrylic--than the furthest bit of the lower body. If that last half inch (+) were solid it would really show up. If he were using the same drill bit to drill out the lower body all the way to the end, it would, again, show up as a colour difference...a major difference. And if he uses a stepped or different drill bit to drill out the last inch or so--where the pen is tapered, it would also show up as a contrast of colours.

As Russ Fairfiled pointed out, he wouldn't even need a brass tube. But he'd almost have to glue his parts in.

I think it could be done with standard mini lathe and standard tools but if brass tubes are used on a closed body acrylic pen the tubes will show through...believe me I tried it.

 

[NAH]

You shouldn't assume that the term "machined" means that a CNC system was used. A "machine shop" is a shop that works in metal primarily, and my or may not use CNC tools. I think you could do it with the el cheapo Harbor Freight $350(give or take) metal lathe. I posted something on it, but in the other forum(D'oh!). I would like to know why you think he'd need to glue the parts, dw? Does acrylic change size much with temprature or not machine well?
NAH

 

[PenWorks]

He could use a CNC machine, that was my first thought. But I have experimented with tubeless pens and threading resins. It takes me forever. I was looking for a faster way. I have done it both ways, just using about a 1/2 of tube and press the parts and threading with no tube. I have contacted him, but have not heard back.

 

[dw]

Nah,

Think about how thin you have to turn the outside diameter of the acrylic relative to the inside diameter. That would be somewhat ameliorated by the omission of the brass tubes, but I still think the acrylic would be subject to deformation or even cracking if the inner diameter of the acrylic were actually tight enough to hold the parts, but the outside diameter were as thin as it needed to be. I could be all wet in that regard but I know I'd be worried. It just seems...intuitively...the simpler approach to drill the blank the same as the part and add a drop of CA or epoxy.

I've studied his photos (which could be "doctored") intently because I really admire the close body pen, but I don't even see the gold of the pen part the nib itself screws into! You've got to hand it to him.

I also emailed him asking for just some pointers but he's not responded.

 

[pen-turners]

I have to disagree on one of the statements above. If done correctly, the brass does not show through. Especially on a large pen such as an El Grande. I have several acrylic resin pens that I have done that I have used small pieces of brass tubes only in the ends of the blanks for support and you cannot see where the tube starts and ends on the finished pens. Not sure what mark does but he does awesome work however he does it!!!!

Chris

 

[PenWorks]

Well I tried again, in somewhat of a hurry, I hate when I make things in a hurry. I took a Gentlemans kit and some water buffalo horn and turned them with just enough brass tube to catch the nib fittings, I think the next time I will drill a 7mm hole, just enough for the roller ball to slide in and the bigger hole only about 3/4 " just enough to catch the nib fitting. I busted the cap on the one, I turned thru the material, that's why I would drill the pen with the smaller hole.I just replaced it with elk antler cap. I still like the all one piece look without the cap fittings. Also BIG difference in the weight. You get a much lighter pen. I tried a turquoise tru stone in the El Grande like Mark's pen I was trying to duplicate, but busted that out to. Learned something, I will be back with the finished product and some tips. I think he uses a mill, but it can be done, just takes longer on a lathe. I posted the photos in my album, could not figure out how to put them here.

 

[jwoodwright]

I've used minimum tube for just the connection points when making Corian Slimlines.