How Do You Get The Thing Out?

[Mac In Oak Ridge]

Just learning about things. Bought one of those tapered,chrome plated tools that you use to butter up and put the brass tubes in the hole with.

It works just fine for holding the tube and not getting glue all over your fingers. But, how do you get it to turn loose? I push the tube in the hole and then try and get the taper thing out. It pulls the tube back out. I try rocking it side to side and it pulls the tube back out. I tried using my thumb nail on the other hand to hold back the tube. Wearing latex gloves and my thumb nail and the edge of the tube cuts the glove and lets the glue in. Eventually it turns loose the tube but then I have my glove glued to my finger nail.

What's the secret?

 

[pen-turners]

Mac,
Personally, I have never seen the need for these. I have never needed to cover the whole tube for inserting it so I have never needed one. I put the tube in the blank and draw about 4 lines of CA down the brass tube. I insert and twist in then remove it and insert it in the other end of the blank. While twisting, I insert it almost all the way and then push it the rest of the way in on my workspace, which is usually a piece of wax paper. Although I get a little CA in the tubes this way, it is easily removed while squaring the blanks.

Just my input.....

Chris

 

[Guest]

I use a brass taper punch or a chrome one.(HArbor freight a buck)
Try waxing the tool
(I'm glad I didn't waste my $10.00 on that thing).
Sometimes I use the cap off the glue bottle.
I don't wear glove at all when working with CA, picking it off my finger while watching T.V. gives me something to do.
Down side.
Hard to feel it the pen is smooth enough
The parts are always falling out of my hands during assembly
Sometimes my roller ball mouse doesn't work.

 

[Bev Polmanteer]

I just use a fine nose pliers and pull it through a little on the other end and then shove it back in.

 

[William Young]

I have that tapered chrome tool and it works great. Just put the tube on the tool lightly and hold in an upright position when applying the glue. Then when you twist and turn it in, it should just take a little sideways jerk to release it and leave the tube in the blank where it is placed. All of the above applies to using 2 part epoxy which I use 95 % of the time for that job. It has a much longer open time than CA .

But even with CA, I have had an odd one want to stick to the tool and not let go so I simply push the tube off it with the tip of my scratch awl . (easier and safer than a thumbnail ;-) ) .Gotta do it quick though with CA or it's too late. If you are using epoxy you have lots of time to get the tube off and push it back or forth to where you want it. Keeping an old rag nearby and wiping the tool off after every use also helps. Biggest problem is getting a bit of glue (any kind) on the tool. Keep the tool clean and the tube will release cleanly.
Works for me.
W.Y.

 

[Guest]

There are some woods such as ebony that will grab that tube before you get it all teh way in,( opposite of current situation.Also Corian is an instant grab with CA)

 

[Kurt Aebi]

I made one of those tapreed insertion tools from wood. Just made a handle and glued in a 1/4" dowel rod and tapered it on the belt sander and appled some beeswax and have never had an issue with the tube staying on the tapre and not in the tube.

 

[rjenkins]

One option is to use a pen mill instead of the tapered tool. The pen mill is a loose enough fit that it usually won't stick. Using thin CA makes the problem more likely to occur as it dries so quickly. I prefer Gorilla Glue (or some such). Of course this means it needs to dry at least 4 hrs, but you have plenty of open time. Do several at once and the cure time becomes less of a problem. The pen mill gets a good enough grip on the tube that you have no trouble twisting it as you insert it. Wipe off any residue left on the pen mill before it sets up.

 

[rjenkins]

Mac,
one other very important thing that will probably eliminate your problem, whatever method you use to insert the tube: try a dry fit before "buttering up" the tube. If it is too tight, need to ream it out with the drill bit before proceeding. Drilling the blank generates enough heat to expand the blank & it may slip fit ok right after drilling. After it cools for a couple of minutes, it may shrink enough to seize the tube, so try the slip fit <u>after</u> the blank cools.

 

[JeffScott]

I generally only have this problem when I get excess glue on the tool.
I also gently tap the blank on the bench on 2 side to loosen the tool.