home made friction polish

[crash]

does anyone do this? anyone have a good recipe..?

wanted to make my own .. just thought i could do it cheaper

than the big boys..

thanks in advance..

pete

 

[KKingery]

Pete - I remember seeing a post awhile back about that. It might have been on Russ Fairfields' site. You might want to check there.

 

[vick]

Just as a note when I made my own friction polish I was very disappointed in the durability of it. I have moved to Mylands and have been much happier.

 

[KKingery]

Mike - is the Mylands really that much better than the Shellawax friction polish? Just curious, as I don't make my own, and will need to get some more soon.

 

[Fred in NC]

Formulas from Russ:

http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/russindex.shtml

 

[Old Griz]

Pete in the long run I think you are going to be better off purchasing the commercial stuff...
Personally I don't use friction polish at all anymore... I just don't care for the lack of durability of finish..
In fact the only thing I have been using what is left of my Shellwax for is small bowls and lidded boxes..

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by KKingery
<br />Mike - is the Mylands really that much better than the Shellawax friction polish? Just curious, as I don't make my own, and will need to get some more soon.

I have been using Myland's almost exclusively for two years since seeing a demonstration. I like the almost instant dry feature of it. However, with pens, the friction finish is not durable at all. I recently tried Myland's melamine finish and didn't like the way it applied. Then a couple days ago, just for the 'H' of it I tried applying the Myland's sanding sealer and friction finish, just has I have in the past, but then I put a coat of melamine over that. It seems to go on smoothly and give a nice finish and dries quickly, not instantly but within a few minutes. For a pen, only a few drops of each is necessary. I use cut up bits of old socks and t-shirts to apply my finishes. Unless something happens to dissuade me, I believe this will be my standard finish application process. But, then, I am considering some of DCB's TSW stuff. The reason is he is someone who has been there, done that and has a successful track record. The odds are it is a very good product.

 

[Gary]

There's not a lot of difference in final appearance of the Mylands Friction Polish and the Shellawax. But I won't use either of them on pens because of the lack of durability.

 

[DCBluesman]

I use home-made friction finish as a base coat on a lot of different wood. I follow Russ Fairfield's formula, minus the 1/2 oz of beeswax. The formula is <b>1/3 each of dewaxed shellac flakes, 1/3 boiled linseed oil and 1/3 denatured alcohol</b>. I mix up about 12 ounces at a time as it deteriorates in 3-4 months. Depending on the wood, I top the friction finish with water-borne lacquer (Oxford Ultima) and my TSW.

 

[ctEaglesc]

I guess we bandy about the term "friction finish".
Hut KK is a "friction finish"(A little friction and its' finished)
So is "Mylands".
I use their 3 step "system"
Sanding sealer,high build polish and Carnauba wax.
# coats of each.
It was recommended by the guys at Woodturningz.
There are times when I "level off: the sealer with the last 4 MM's.
The whole process takes less than 10 minutes.
After saying all that,I realized it had nothing to do with the question.
Yes I've tried mixing my own and not very happy with the results.
I tried the Mylands and never looked back.(except for an occasional CA on a CC pen.)