Hey Eagle!

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.

Jim Boyd

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2005
Messages
350
Location
Montgomery, Texas, USA.
In another thread about shell casing pens you said:
"If you are using any casing that is too long, and are using a 7 mm kit, the way I make them you can turn a tenon on the lower portion of the top barrel and it will fit nicely into the casing.
It shows craftsmanship and adds to the strucural integrity of the pen.
Of course the casing needs to be drilled accurately on center for this to work."
[?][?][?][?] Do you have a pic of a completed pen done this way? The way I read it is that you are using 2 shell casings.
 

ctEaglesc

Passed Away Jul 4, 2008
In Memoriam
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
3,238
Location
Camden, S.C., USA.
Originally posted by Jim Boyd
<br />In another thread about shell casing pens you said:
"If you are using any casing that is too long, and are using a 7 mm kit, the way I make them you can turn a tenon on the lower portion of the top barrel and it will fit nicely into the casing.
It shows craftsmanship and adds to the strucural integrity of the pen.
Of course the casing needs to be drilled accurately on center for this to work."
[?][?][?][?] Do you have a pic of a completed pen done this way? The way I read it is that you are using 2 shell casings.

I'm not sure why you think 2 casings are needed.
I am also hesitant to post a picture of the method I use but will do so anyway.
A few months ago there was a thread in which the subject of how a the tube could be centered and there were a lot of mickey mouse suggestions as to how to do it.
I mentioned the best way is not always the easiest and got if if not a few flames at least some sparks.
I try to make my pens with as much prescion as my tools and skills allow, anything less would indicate that I am a hack and I don't want to have that reputation, there are enough of those out there from what I have whitnessed.
Those who are gluing brass to brass with Ca are going to have a problem eventually.I would rather not make something that is designed to fail.
This is one of my earliest casing pens, maybe the first.
I have gotten better at matching up the top and bottom sections as far as shape goes but when there is this much Staghorn bark available concessions are made to show off the best attributes of the piece.
This pen is about 9 months old.
In the first view I left it together as it would normally be asssembled.
In the second view I pulled the top section off a little bit to reveal the tenon and the transmission.
Note there is no green coloring on the lower section of the antler.I sealed it with thin CA and skewed it off.
In May I had mentioned to Don Ward that a few of my earlier pens had this happen ( green stain from brass on both antler or wood) and he verified that some of his were doing the same and he corrected his also by sealing.That information was handed on while I had been unfairly banned from the forum for 2 months.


2005102315210_First%20casing%20antler%207mm%20001.jpg
<br />



Second view


20051023152143_First%20casing%20antler%207mm%20002.jpg
<br />
 

Jim Boyd

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2005
Messages
350
Location
Montgomery, Texas, USA.
Thanks for the reply. You are right that the easy way is not always the best way. I came up with a different way that uses no glue but still could use improvement. Thanks for giving me more to ponder[;)][:D]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom