Help with turning green bowls...

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Dutra

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Jun 30, 2011
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Ok so im not sure i understand turning green bolws. I Read the following article and i understand that a green bowl turned and unfinished will warp, but I dont understand the underlined parts...

"Fresh-cut (green) wood is a favorite for practice because it cuts very easily. The downside is that as material is removed, the bowl begins drying quickly which makes it susceptible to cracking if left partially done for any length of time. If you have to stop turning a green blank before it is finished, wrapping it in a closed plastic garbage bag will help retain the moisture in the wood, reducing the chances of splitting.
Even sealing the blank in a bag may not prevent its distorting. A partially cut blank can develop an oval shape very quickly. When possible, plan enough time to turn and finish the bowl in one session."

So does this mean i can turn a green bowl and as long as i put a finish on it it wont warp?
Does that include laquer as a finish?
 
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Knucklefish

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I have turned several. What you do is "rough" turn it first, let it dry, then final turn it. When you're letting it dry, there are several methods you can use including DNA bath, microwave oven, boiling (believe it or not) and just putting it in a bag whith some shavings. Every person has their own preference. Mine is the DNA bath followed by 1-3 weeks in a bag. There are some good articles on this, just Google it. The point is to SLOWLY dry the piece so it won't warp or split. The nfinal turn it and put a finish on it.
I would not put any sort of finish on a green (menaing high moisture content) bowl. It needs to dry or the finish won't stick.
Hope this helps.

Ok so im not sure i understand turning green bolws. I Read the following article and i understand that a green bowl turned and unfinished will warp, but I dont understand the underlined parts...

"Fresh-cut (green) wood is a favorite for practice because it cuts very easily. The downside is that as material is removed, the bowl begins drying quickly which makes it susceptible to cracking if left partially done for any length of time. If you have to stop turning a green blank before it is finished, wrapping it in a closed plastic garbage bag will help retain the moisture in the wood, reducing the chances of splitting.
Even sealing the blank in a bag may not prevent its distorting. A partially cut blank can develop an oval shape very quickly. When possible, plan enough time to turn and finish the bowl in one session."

So does this mean i can turn a green bowl and as long as i put a finish on it it wont warp?
Does that include laquer as a finish?
 

nativewooder

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Feb 26, 2009
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Fort Pierce, Fl 34982
There are very few sure things in this world other than death and taxes. I don't turn green wood but I know from past experience that each piece of wood is different, even how much it will warp. The general rule is to turn green wood as thin as 1/4" to keep it from warping as it dries. I have known of turners who take apart SS hose clamps and string them together to form a clamp large enough to go around the rim of the green bowl and then tighten it to keep the bowl from warping. You will have to experiment to see what you like. Good Luck! Keep turnin' and learnin'!:biggrin:
 

bitshird

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Aug 27, 2007
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Adamsville, TN, USA.
Dutra, green bowls will warp, BUT this can be kept to a minimum, rather than just put it in a garbage bag, will the bag with the shaving and swarf from the bowl, Also a formula that works is first turn if you turn a 10 inch owl, leave the walls and floor/bottom close to 1 inch thick, keep it in a dry cool place in your shop. let it set a month or even longer then remount it and turn it , John Jordan has an excellent video, it shows how wood shrinks, and what happens I've attended several of his seminars and The man knows what he;s talking about, and shows the whys and wherefores of wood shrinkage, But the 10% thickness works quite well, , If you have a Moisture meter it can be a bit of help,. Not a panacea but it will give you an idea where you're at , the last turn should be a a breeze except for the dry dust,, my best suggestion is join a local turning club, I don't know how far you are from Drums PA, but there is a forum and club. the slower a bowl or any turning dried the less warping there will be, . I'm not sure if there are any other clubs in the area, but woodturners resource has some excellent turners including Ron Sardo, (nearly a Master Status turner Turner).
It seems like it cost's a lot to go to the symposiums, but you will see things that you would never consider, and wind up being a bargain, But the main thing is let the wood dry slow, and enjoy turning. if I can be of any further help just shoot me a PM. one thing I would recommend is instated of sealing with lacquer, use BLO,and don't soak the bowl, just a very light coat.
 
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moke

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Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Has anyone here used the Microwave method? Granted you have to wait until your wide is gone for a while, but does it work?
 

ctubbs

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Murray, Kentucky
Has anyone here used the Microwave method? Granted you have to wait until your wide is gone for a while, but does it work?

Mike, QUICK, contact one of the mods and get that post deleted before your wide sees it! Best of luck. Here is hoping your dog house is heated and well furnished.
Charles
 

Don Wade

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Hawkins, Texas
I love turning green wood. I twist and turns and you have to be fast. I have sold and still have a lot of turnings. It is quick and easy but a terror to clean up.
 

low_48

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Peoria, IL, USA.
Green wood turning success is having a constant wall thickness. The author is telling you to get to an even wall thickness as soon as you can. Any delays, even as little as having dinner, can have some wood crack if you don't protect the fresh cuts from the air. Fruitwoods are the least tolerant, walnut and ash are more tolerant. I have never turned a rough bowl and then finish turn it months latter. I love the natural look of warped and twisted wood turnings. I try to have my turnings look as natural as possible.
 

Soup

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Kansas
Some of my best work have been bowls turned to completion with green wood. I now usually turn/carve the tendon into 3 small feet to give a solid platform to stand on, and let the wood turn however it wants. If I choose to let the wood dry and turn later, I turn the bowl to 1" thickness for 12" diameter, and store the bowl in a closed box or paper bag with the shavings from it for a couple of months. That being said, some woods are ready to go very quickly, and some take much longer. It might be time to invest in a moisture meter for myself.
 

Dutra

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Green wood turning success is having a constant wall thickness. The author is telling you to get to an even wall thickness as soon as you can. Any delays, even as little as having dinner, can have some wood crack if you don't protect the fresh cuts from the air. Fruitwoods are the least tolerant, walnut and ash are more tolerant. I have never turned a rough bowl and then finish turn it months latter. I love the natural look of warped and twisted wood turnings. I try to have my turnings look as natural as possible.


Hmmm.. That last part sounds interesting, I will definitely give it a try.
 

Lee K

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Carrollton, GA
To add to the others comments,

If you turn to finished thickness (1/4" or so) while the wood is green, you should expect the wood to warp. there are some intriguing styles that come from that process with warped (out of round) bowls. Its a distinctive style.

You run the risk of cracking as the wood will want to release internal stresses. Final sanding of the wood is also better suited when the wood is drier too.
 

carpblaster

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Shelby,Alabama
I got a bunch of green drying now, after i turned it down to about the same thickness all the way around, i was told to put it in a brown paper bag from the grocery store, not plastic, i weigh it before putting it in, and you will e amazed at how its working, hardly any warping, or checking or c racking,i keep writing down the weight when i re weigh it ever couple of weeks, when it stays the same for about a month or so i turn it and have not had a problem yet,
carpblaster
 

Dutra

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Would putting anchorseal on the bowl before putting it in the bag be a good idea?
 

kovalcik

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Barrington, NH
I think what the initial article is saying is that when rough turning the bowl, if you need to take a break put the blank in a plastic bag to keep it from drying. When you finish rough turning, then put it in a paper bag. I have put used anchorseal (on the end grain only, inside and out) to try to prevent cracking and it does seem to help.
 

ren-lathe

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St. Clair Shores, Michigan
Would putting anchorseal on the bowl before putting it in the bag be a good idea?
I Anchorseal my green turned bowls it helps prevent checking. Some woods such as pistachio are very prone to this. Maple rarely checks Mulberry is also very stable. It is much easier to turn green wood but remember the greener the wetter you may find yourself taking a shower. leave the wood 10% thicker than where you want to finish it. buy a moisture meter when it dries to 7% you should be good to finish turn it. Also since the warping on some wood is extreme if you are going to turn green often you will probably want a vacuum chuck so you can true up the bottom of the bowl to put it back in the chuck. A cole jaw set may not hold when it is really warped. Did a macadamia bowl recently that was almost 2" out of round
 

aplpickr

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North Carolina
When you rough turn a green bowl, leave the tenon on the bowl. Be sure that you don't loose the dimple from the tailstock center. After it has dried, use this point to find the center of the oval bowl. If you left the rough turning thick enough, about 1" on a 10" bowl, you will have enough wood to turn it round again.
 

louisbry

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Tullahoma, TN, USA.
Since no one mentioned natural edge bowls I will. You will use a green log (greener the better) to turn a natural edge bowl, keeping the walls uniform and 1/4 inch or less in thickness. The bowl will still warp some but due to the shape of the bowl you won't notice it. Due to the thin walls a natural edge bowl will seldom crack. Natural edge is a little more advance but not difficult is you get instruction (either hands on or vedio). Good turning.
 

GoatRider

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Maple Grove, Minnesota
I made a small natural edge bowl a few months ago out of a silver maple branch, and I just happen to have taken a picture of it today with a pen made out of a different part of the same branch:
 

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Wildman

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Jacksonville, NC, USA.
Turning a bowl from green wood and finishing it will not stop it from going oval or cracking. Sometimes will get lucky with some wood species and grain orientation and get an outstanding bowl. So try turning couple green bowls thin, finish and see how it goes.

Big reason for rough turning bowl blanks is speed up drying time. Thin wood reaches EMC faster than thick wood.

I rough turn and may or may not put in a paper bag with shavings. Shavings can encourage mold or staining so dump shavings after a week or two. May not put a rough turn bowl blank in a bag and just set aside to dry in corner of shop. Never have used sealer on roughed out bowl blanks simple air drying works for me.
 

MartinPens

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Medford, Oregon, USA
louisbry said:
Since no one mentioned natural edge bowls I will. You will use a green log (greener the better) to turn a natural edge bowl, keeping the walls uniform and 1/4 inch or less in thickness. The bowl will still warp some but due to the shape of the bowl you won't notice it. Due to the thin walls a natural edge bowl will seldom crack. Natural edge is a little more advance but not difficult is you get instruction (either hands on or vedio). Good turning.

This is how I have been doing it and I really enjoy turning green wood. You get a little wet in the process, but it's so nice to cut through that wet wood like butter. I have done two videos on Youtube of natural edge cherry bowls. You can find them by searching the following titles:

Natural Edge Cherry Burl Bowl
Cherry Burl Bowl #2

Happy turning.

Martin

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