Help :) Tubes not holding in bullets

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Akula

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I've made hundreds of bullet pens. My process is:

Pick out some 30-06 brass

I use a step drill to make room for the brass tube.

I use flux and solder the brass tubes inside. I do clean the brass and I cut the tubes a little long.

But for some unknown reason, I have not been able to get the tubes to hold. I have tried about a dozen different ones and none of them hold. I've taken breaks, walk away a few days, go back and try, and they still fail. I've tried different solder as well but I have used them many times over the years.

These have always been gifts I sent out during December and for the first time, was not able to send any out last year. I'm at a loss.

Any ideas? Thanks
 
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Jim Smith

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Do you clean the brass inside the casing very well? I could see powder residue or oil preventing the solder from making a good bond. Just a thought...

Jim Smith
 

D.Oliver

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Are you using the same soldering iron as you did in previous years? Is it possible it's faulty? I don't know much about soldering, but as I see it there are only four variables: The casing, the tubes, the solder, and the soldering iron.
 

KenV

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Sounds like the flux and solder may not be matched -- solder formulations have changed with many solders not using lead. Some of the solders are fussy about the flux used.

When I hit problems I take one piece and see if I can "Tin" it with the solder and flux. I would use a tube to test. Does the solder tin the tube?

If not it is a matter of solder - flux - or temperature. Which is wrong?
 

Akula

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seabrook, texas, USA.
Sounds like the flux and solder may not be matched -- solder formulations have changed with many solders not using lead. Some of the solders are fussy about the flux used.

When I hit problems I take one piece and see if I can "Tin" it with the solder and flux. I would use a tube to test. Does the solder tin the tube?

If not it is a matter of solder - flux - or temperature. Which is wrong?


This is new flux but same brand I have used in the past. I'll test it tonight.
 

Akula

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seabrook, texas, USA.
Only thing different is the flux. The solder is on the larger spools and have had them for years because it uses so little. I have 4 different spools of it and tried them all on different tubes. I didn't get a chance last nite to test on just the tubes to see if it will hold but plan to do some testing today.

The flux is the same brand I have always used, actually didn't know there was different types :) It was the only one Home Depot had when I got it in November. I don't have the empty old container to do a side by side exam, tossed it away.
 

Monty

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I had a similar problem when I ran out of my old (from my FIL's shop) acid flux. I picked up dome Oatey lead free tinning flux and it just didn't want to work for me. I finally got some Kester acid Past flux and they now solder like the old times.
 

Akula

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seabrook, texas, USA.
I had a similar problem when I ran out of my old (from my FIL's shop) acid flux. I picked up dome Oatey lead free tinning flux and it just didn't want to work for me. I finally got some Kester acid Past flux and they now solder like the old times.

Humm, Oatey H-20 is what I have....and looking now I should have got the H-2095

I guess I got the wrong one...they look the same especially if I don't wear my glasses.

So ding ding ding...bet that's the issue

Thanks
 

Sylvanite

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Only thing different is the flux. ...The flux is the same brand I have always used, actually didn't know there was different types :) It was the only one Home Depot had when I got it in November.
Did you happen to get the "water soluble" flux (red container)? If so, then that's your problem. It's terrible stuff. Use the petroleum based (green label) flux, preferably "tinning flux" instead.

I hope that helps,
Eric
 

Monty

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The Oatey that didn't work for me is No.95 lead free tinning flux. It has a green and white label. The Kester that I am currently using with good results is Kester Acid Past Flux P/N 82511. It's in a 1oz blue and white tube.
 
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