Help please. Chipped ends?

[eliasbboy]

I'm losing my mind trying to figure out why this is happening, almost constantly now.

As I get the the ends of my blanks, the ends become chipped. I've lost about a dozen blanks trying to sand the ends past the chipping. They become too short for the kits.

I've sharpened my tools to the extent of my abilities. It even happens with the Pen Pro tool.

I have an 80 grit disc I use to square the ends on a disc sander. Could that be the culprit? Is that too rough?

 

[Rodnall]

Is the chipping at the hole when drilling? If so, cut your blanks long and trim with a saw. Or are you talking about when your turning?
Rod

 

[Mack C.]

I'm losing my mind trying to figure out why this is happening, almost constantly now.

As I get the the ends of my blanks, the ends become chipped. I've lost about a dozen blanks trying to sand the ends past the chipping. They become too short for the kits.

I've sharpened my tools to the extent of my abilities. It even happens with the Pen Pro tool.

I have an 80 grit disc I use to square the ends on a disc sander. Could that be the culprit? Is that too rough?

I use 150 grit on my disc sander. Never had a prob.!

80 sounds pretty gritty to me!:laugh:

 

[randyrls]

Some acrylic blanks become brittle as the temperature falls. Some acrylics are just more brittle than others. I am starting on some Inlace Acrylester (Galaxy) blanks and I've already noticed that these are more brittle than other acrylics. Also the angle of the carbide bit makes a difference. Take a look at this post.

 

[Dave Turner]

I'll assume you're talking about chipping on the ends of the blank that occurs as you are turning them down to a smaller diameter. Since the material on the end of the blank is only supported on one side (as opposed to being supported on both sides elsewhere), some materials do tend to chip easily. I find that I can eliminate most chipping by first beveling the ends of the blank at about a 45 degree bevel. I'll make the smaller bevel diameter slightly greater than the finished diameter to give me a little fudge factor. Light cuts (or sanding) can then bring it down to final diameter without chipping.

 

[eliasbboy]

Sorry I didn't clarify. Yes, it is when I'm turning. I'm in Chicago so it's definitely been colder. I try to heat up my area before I turn but it's not exaclty toasty.

It's happening on mostly woods, stabilized and not. If I sharpen my tools any more I'm going to be down to a nub.

I'm afraid to turn anything else until I figure this out. I now have a nice little pile of semi finished blanks that are all undersized due to sanding the ends back past the chips.

A few of them I was able to sand undersized and build back up with CA but I'm stuck with the others.

So temp and humidity might not be helping I take it?

 

[ed4copies]

First, what material are you turning?
Second, as has been mentioned, if it is "plastic", what is the ambient temperature in the room?
Third, look at your hole from the end. Is the tube in the center, or skewed to one side or the other?

Take two pics of one or two--one showing the damage, the second from the end, showing the fit of the tube in the hole. With that, I can probably help you solve your problem.

Ed

 

[gbpens]

Micheal, I live in Homer Glen, IL. Perhaps we can get together and iron out your problem. Gene

 

[ed4copies]

Sorry I didn't clarify. Yes, it is when I'm turning. I'm in Chicago so it's definitely been colder. I try to heat up my area before I turn but it's not exaclty toasty.

It's happening on mostly woods, stabilized and not. If I sharpen my tools any more I'm going to be down to a nub.

I'm afraid to turn anything else until I figure this out. I now have a nice little pile of semi finished blanks that are all undersized due to sanding the ends back past the chips.

A few of them I was able to sand undersized and build back up with CA but I'm stuck with the others.

So temp and humidity might not be helping I take it?

I'd still like two pictures, but one thing that immediately comes to mind: When you "face" a wood blank, before mounting on the lathe, put a couple drops of thin CA on each end and let it soak in. If the wood is porous, it may "drink" the CA, keep adding until that stops. You now have reinforced ends that will hold up better.

Then, consider turning from the outside-in. Jerry Sambrook made me realize that coming from "off" the blank (over the bushing) and cutting into the blank, creates more support for the wood. The theory is very good--becoming adept at this is not so simple (for me)!



Without pics, this is the best I can do for you!!!

Ed

 

[jttheclockman]

I wrote this big long answer and deleted it because within it was some thoughts that would have been taken the wrong way.

So I will sum things up. In order for people here to help you and others it is imperative to give as mucg detail as possible in what you are doing and when the problem occurs. A photo is always helpful and worth many words. Help us help you.

Now Ed has touched on 2 things I would have suggested. Always turn toward the center of the blank. This is basic turning at its uttmost. The is more wood fibers to support your tool use. Taper the ends toward the bushings to take off the strain of grain raising when cutting those fibers.

Also always seal the ends of any wood blank and that goes for all woods. Wood will soak up moisture when the pores are open such as on the ends just like a straw. Nothing good can come out of leaving the ends unsealed. Just look at all the problems that arise about cracking CA.

Next get rid of that 80 grit paper. 150 or 220 is what you want.

 

[eliasbboy]

I wrote this big long answer and deleted it because within it was some thoughts that would have been taken the wrong way.

So I will sum things up. In order for people here to help you and others it is imperative to give as mucg detail as possible in what you are doing and when the problem occurs. A photo is always helpful and worth many words. Help us help you.

Now Ed has touched on 2 things I would have suggested. Always turn toward the center of the blank. This is basic turning at its uttmost. The is more wood fibers to support your tool use. Taper the ends toward the bushings to take off the strain of grain raising when cutting those fibers.

Also always seal the ends of any wood blank and that goes for all woods. Wood will soak up moisture when the pores are open such as on the ends just like a straw. Nothing good can come out of leaving the ends unsealed. Just look at all the problems that arise about cracking CA.

Next get rid of that 80 grit paper. 150 or 220 is what you want.

Thanks for this and ALL the help! I unfortunately do not have an example to photograph, as I tried to correct it by sanding the ends down.

I have NO problem hearing advice and instruction. I do not find it condescending if that was your fear. For example, I did NOT know to turn in toward the center. I use a "2/3" type method and start from the middle, moving towards the ends. I never took a class and just grabbed a lathe and started as safely as I could. I'm guessing some further reading or proper instruction could certainly go a long way.

I also do not seal the ends. These are two things I will definitely be doing immediately.

I have to run out right now, but I will see if I can reproduce my problem and post some photos later.

Thanks you all for the replies!

 

[jttheclockman]

Now see Michael you took the info in stride and learned from it. Sometimes my words get taken out of context and then I have to explain what I meant and put in alot of smiley faces to show I mean no harm.:biggrin:The turning toward center is a huge factor. Now if Ed brought it up I am sure he shows this on his videos. I do not know I have not watched them. The same thing with sealing wood ends. It is a must. Good luck.

 

[leehljp]

Some other thing comes to mind that you mentioned: you mentioned it even happens with the Pen Pro. If your tools are sharp, besides the temp, it is possible your technique contributes. What speed are you turning? Slow speeds tend toward more catches, as does loose gripping of the tool, or not holding it firm on the tool rest.

Probably a combination of all and the cold temps.

On wood, when I turn down certain wood, I will put some thin CA on it, turn it, add some more thin CA and turn some more. I have to do this regularly with burls such as amboyna. Some woods are more prone to this than others.

 

[eliasbboy]

Now see Michael you took the info in stride and learned from it. Sometimes my words get taken out of context and then I have to explain what I meant and put in alot of smiley faces to show I mean no harm.:biggrin:The turning toward center is a huge factor. Now if Ed brought it up I am sure he shows this on his videos. I do not know I have not watched them. The same thing with sealing wood ends. It is a must. Good luck.

That was 100% it. I just turned 2 pens that were probably my favorite experiences turning so far. I have no idea if it was just a placebo affect or not, but I felt much more in control. Hell, I could have sold it as is the finish was so smooth after all the sharpening I've done to my skew trying to solve the issue.:biggrin:

I thank you kindly, as well as all the other helpful posts in here.

When I first bought my lathe I watched a video or two on youtube and saw someone turning from center towards the bushings and just assumed that was the way to go and I've been doing that ever since. I wish I knew then, as they say. I could have saved myself a great deal of headaches.

 

[reiddog1]

Anothet trick is to keep all of your acrylic type blanks in the house where its warm until they're ready for the lathe. Works for me.

Dave