Help! with plastics

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Verne

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Dec 16, 2006
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Houston, TX.
As most of you know "I hate turning plastic":mad:! Having said that I so have some really pretty/beautiful/unique plastic/acrylic/pr (PAP)blanks and need some advice. I know a lot of you are good at giving advice so let loose with the best speeds to drill PAP; tool to turn PAP (I only have a oval skew, 3/8 bowl gouge, and a sawzall); finish for PAP; speed to turn PAP (seems like l saw FAST!).
My hope is that with the proper tutorage I can possibly learn to love turning PAP, well, at least be able to tolerate turning PAP.
Second question: I have a piece of plastic 4 X 8 X 1/4 or 3/8 that I want to cut up into itty bitty pieces to make the plexi/acetone finish stuff, as well as other "things". I tried with my jig saw and it got all gummed or plasticed up, I tried with my sawzall, they lie, it doesn't sawz all. What's the best and easies and least messy method to choose?
Ok ladies and gentlemen....GO!
thanks in advance,
Vern






x
 
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jkeithrussell

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Cut the plastic into bits with a band saw or scroll saw or table saw or smash it with a hammer. Unless it is really thick, you might also use a box cutter and just break off chunks.

As far as turning synthetic blanks, just use sharp tools (start sharp and keep touching them up), a light touch, and don't be afraid to switch to sandpaper (wet) to get the final shape. A properly sharpened skew, used with a light touch, makes working with synthetics very easy and enjoyable. Just go slow.
 

Chasper

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Knock off the corners with whatever is handy, then do the real work with a skew, I like a 3/4 oval. Sharp is good, but I usually turn 5-10 pens between sharpening.
I turn at full speed, I turn everything at full speed
Buff or micro mesh it, whatever you do, then a little polish is all you need, no real finish.
I drill at about 750

I cut it with a band saw. Those little vibrating blade scroll saws melt their way through then it quickly cools and hardens and you can't even back out, fun isn't it?
 

ed4copies

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Not all plastics are the same - if you turn them all the same, some will work out, others won't.

Practice.

Sharp tools and fast rotation are pretty universal, tho.
 

scotti158

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When I learned how to use a skew properly and kept it sharp, most of my issues with plastics disappeared. Here is a link to a youtube clip that shows how to cut with a skew instead of scraping the side of the material. It shows wood being turned but works as good with plastics. Now I use a skew for rounding also.
 

ldb2000

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That video is a perfect example of the correct way to use a skew . That is called a shearing cut and can produce a surface (on certain materials) so smooth that no sanding is needed or at worst just a touch up with MM .
 

Verne

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Ok guys and gals. We did what you said. Spent the first 30 minutes sharpening my skew and gouge on the ole trusty Tormek. (Still ain't got it down pat but it's getting better)
Drilled at 700: worked great! Turned at 4950, well that is what it was with no load: worked great!
Took a couple pictures for your perusal. Still suck at photography but I think too many skills dulls the mind!
Your comments are welcome.
Vern
 

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Second question: I have a piece of plastic 4 X 8 X 1/4 or 3/8 that I want to cut up into itty bitty pieces to make the plexi/acetone finish stuff, as well as other "things". I tried with my jig saw and it got all gummed or plasticed up, I tried with my sawzall, they lie, it doesn't sawz all. What's the best and easies and least messy method to choose?
Ok ladies and gentlemen....GO!
thanks in advance,
Vern

x

Hey Vern, I made my plexi finish stuff from an old plexiglas pepper mill. I use a hammer to "cut" it up... 'course you may to play "I wonder where the plexi went".. actually, I put it in a paper bag, laid it on an old sledge head (Need to put a handle in that someday) and whacked it with a 32oz framing hammer. Shatter nicely.

If you're cutting sheets, I think before I tried to be cute and smart mouthed, someone suggested a table saw.. the band saw will melt the plastic as the teeth are too fine, but the coarser teeth of the TS won't melt it so much... or you could score it with a utility knife and it will break, but difficult to get small pieces that way.
 

MorganGrafixx

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Nice work man. I've only turned 1 Acrylic so far, so I don't have much experience to speak from but those 2 look pretty good to me.

On a side note--I was watching that video just now. When he was explaining to use the center third of the skew blade and then went on to explain that you shouldn't let the toe of the blade do the cutting. I was thinking to myself "Amen brother", then he goes on to pull the skew down so that the toe was getting closer and closer to the spindle...my heart almost stopped. He's a braver man than me. I have a bad memory with the skew toe coming into contact with a loose eye hole...lets just say it didn't end well for that spindle or the skew.:mad:
 
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