Having trouble drilling.

[flippedcracker]

First off, all my tools were free, so I'm not complaining about any of them. However, they're Harbor Freight. Enough said, amirite?

Anyway, I have a small drill press, and the spindle stroke is only 2". My lathe also only has about 2" of quill travel (less once the drill chuck is in because of the pin that knocks it out).

Originally, I was using the drill press. I made a jig to act as the table, clamped down the piece and would drill, but because of the short spindle stroke, I had to turn the wood over to drill all the way through. Apparently I couldn't drill exactly in the center because the two holes would be slightly off, and I would get a step on the inside not allowing the tube to go all the way through.

So then I got the dedicated pen blank drilling chuck from PSI, only to find out I'd have the same issue. The travel isn't enough to go all the way through, so I'd flip the blank around but still get the step. I think that has to do with the tailstock not ending up in the exact same spot (since I have to move it away to get the blank out to flip it). Maybe I need to figure out how to line it up better consistently.

After that, I got a self centering pen drill vise to try on the drill press again. same thing, but now I'm thinking the blanks I have aren't prefectly square and maybe that has something to do with it on the vise.

So I'm wondering, do I need to get a drill press that has enough travel to go all the way through, or is there something else I'm missing that I can try.

tl;dr- sorry it's so long. I can't drill all the way through a blank, do I need a tool that can?

 

[wellsw]

Move the tailstock?? I back the bit out slide the tailstock foreward and drill the last inch.

 

[Andrew_K99]

The way I 'cheat' is I drill as far down as I can on my drill press and then I raise the table with the drill bit in the blank to finish the hole. Only concern with this is heat build up as you can't retract the bit quickly if needed. Thankfully I only have to do this with long barrel pens (long clicker or zen).

AK

 

[D.Oliver]

While quill travel might pose a problem on a drill press it shouldn't on a lathe. Once you max out you quill travel on the lathe, stop the lathe, retract the quill, unlock the tailstock and repostion it closer to the headstock. You can then use your two inche of travel again. You can repostion the tailstock as many times as needed and the only limiting factor on how deep you can drill is the lenght of the drill bit.

 

[Russianwolf]

Try this.


On drill press:
Put blank in holder and drill to capacity.
Adjust table/holder up until the bit is almost touching the bottom of the hole
Continue drilling
Repeat until through the blank

This will work as long as the drill bit is at least as long as the blank.

On the Lathe, do the same but since you can't move what is holding the blank you move the tailstock.

We all have to do it from time to time, the long click is longer than any of the travels we have on our tools I bet.

but flipping is bad because it's almost impossible to get it exactly right what with bit drift, and slight irregularities in the materials, etc.

 

[Ulises Victoria]

These 3 things solved all my drilling problems so far.

Amazon.com: Colt 5 Star Pen Makers Bit Set 5pc: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Skil 3320-02 120-Volt 10-Inch Drill Press: Home Improvement

CLASSIC NIB - PH DESIGNS VISE AND PRESS

Not a cheap solution, but I haven't encountered the problems I used to have anymore.

 

[flippedcracker]

The way I 'cheat' is I drill as far down as I can on my drill press and then I raise the table with the drill bit in the blank to finish the hole. Only concern with this is heat build up as you can't retract the bit quickly if needed. Thankfully I only have to do this with long barrel pens (long clicker or zen).

AK

I've tried that, but my table doesn't raise easily. It's not on a crank, there's a piece in the back that clamps the table to the post. When it's unlocked, the table can move all over the place, so I lose the position. Maybe I can work something out where I can raise the blank without moving the table.

While quill travel might pose a problem on a drill press it shouldn't on a lathe. Once you max out you quill travel on the lathe, stop the lathe, retract the quill, unlock the tailstock and repostion it closer to the headstock. You can then use your two inche of travel again. You can repostion the tailstock as many times as needed and the only limiting factor on how deep you can drill is the lenght of the drill bit.

The problem is that my tailstock can move side to side along the ways so I don't necessarily end up in the same spot, which throws off the original hole. I think I'll give this method another go and see if I can't line the tailstock up better.

 

[Andrew_K99]

The way I 'cheat' is I drill as far down as I can on my drill press and then I raise the table with the drill bit in the blank to finish the hole. Only concern with this is heat build up as you can't retract the bit quickly if needed. Thankfully I only have to do this with long barrel pens (long clicker or zen).

AK

I've tried that, but my table doesn't raise easily. It's not on a crank, there's a piece in the back that clamps the table to the post. When it's unlocked, the table can move all over the place, so I lose the position. Maybe I can work something out where I can raise the blank without moving the table.

I'd just make up a shim that is less then your quill travel, so if you have 2" make a 1-1/2" shim or two and just put them under the blank to raise it as required.

FYI if or when you upgrade your drill press there are quite a few on the market with 6" of quill travel, something I never thought was important until I started making pens.

AK

 

[flippedcracker]

These 3 things solved all my drilling problems so far.

Amazon.com: Colt 5 Star Pen Makers Bit Set 5pc: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Skil 3320-02 120-Volt 10-Inch Drill Press: Home Improvement

CLASSIC NIB - PH DESIGNS VISE AND PRESS

Not a cheap solution, but I haven't encountered the problems I used to have anymore.

I'm thinking I would have less of a problem is my table moved up and down like that one. So that might be an option. I already have good bits and the pen vise.

I've been looking at the bigger Harbor Freight DP that has 3 1/8" travel which would hopefully work for everything I currently do. I've seen good reviews for that unit, but I'm just not sure and wouldn't be able to spend much more than that.

 

[flippedcracker]

I'd just make up a shim that is less then your quill travel, so if you have 2" make a 1-1/2" shim or two and just put them under the blank to raise it as required.

AK

Yeah, that's an idea. My clamp was a little low, so I'll have to change that a bit.

At least I know I've got figure something out other than flipping it. It's amazing I've been able to make any pens at all. Every once in a while I would get lucky with my drilling and it would work.

I have some ideas to try tonight.

 

[Russianwolf]

I forget where I saw it, but I made a blank holder from two pieces of scrap wood and a hinge.

Make a groove in one piece and the other piece is use to clamp the blank in the groove with just hand pressure.

When you need to raise the blank. put a piece of scrap under it, and keep drilling.

I can take pics when I get home if you like. Assuming I can find it.

 

[flippedcracker]

I'd appreciate that.

I'm just wondering how concerned I need to be with heat with the bit in part of the blank all the time. It'd be pretty quick, but would that part of the hole be bigger than the lower part just because of the heat? If so, would it be different enough to worry about?

 

[Andrew_K99]

I'd appreciate that.

I'm just wondering how concerned I need to be with heat with the bit in part of the blank all the time. It'd be pretty quick, but would that part of the hole be bigger than the lower part just because of the heat? If so, would it be different enough to worry about?

I let the drill bit and blank cool (if required) before raising the blank into the bit. Then finish the hole as quick as possible. Don't let the bit spin in the hole for a long time if you can help it. I've never noticed anything that would prevent me from doing this again, though I am sure there are some materials that wouldn't like this method.

AK

 

[ghostrider]

The way I 'cheat' is I drill as far down as I can on my drill press and then I raise the table with the drill bit in the blank to finish the hole. Only concern with this is heat build up as you can't retract the bit quickly if needed. Thankfully I only have to do this with long barrel pens (long clicker or zen).

AK

I've tried that, but my table doesn't raise easily. It's not on a crank, there's a piece in the back that clamps the table to the post. When it's unlocked, the table can move all over the place, so I lose the position. Maybe I can work something out where I can raise the blank without moving the table.

I had Harbor Freights Cheapest drill press, and that exactly what I used to do (Still do in some cases). I now have since upgraded to the next step up, but it only has about 3/8" more travel. Those cranks don't keep the table from moving around, they just raise the table with the crank. It really isn't that big a deal. It just takes a little longer drilling blanks. If you move the partially drilled blank up onto the drill bit, it should be fine. You may have to make some adjustment once the table is raised to re-align the blank on the bit, but with the hole already mostly done that shouldn't be a problem.

 

[leehljp]

The problem is that my tailstock can move side to side along the ways so I don't necessarily end up in the same spot, which throws off the original hole. I think I'll give this method another go and see if I can't line the tailstock up better.

Yes, 'some' tailstocks will move side to side a minute' amount when unlocked (I can "rock" my Rikon) , but when locked, it locks into alignment. So slide the tail stock forward, LOCK it, it should line up automatically when locked. Repeat.

IF your lathe is not aligning up automatically when locked, you have problems that need to be fixed before turning or drilling.

 

[Justturnin]

I would push the bit into the Chuck as far as it will go and lower it until it is just a hair away from the blank. Drill as far as you can then pull it out. loosen the chuch and drop the bit into the blank until you have about 1/2" of bite in the chuck or it is bottomed out and drill the rest of the way. Aside from long clickers this should work on just about everything.

 

[Wingdoctor]

While I don't know if you also have an electric hand drill, corded or cordless, it might help you solve your problem. If you have drilled a hole 2" into a blank on the drill press, that will be most of the way through any two blank pen set. Take the bit out of the drill press and put it in the hand drill. The 2" of depth will be a good guide to allow you to finish drilling the blank. Put the blank in a bench vise, or clamp it to the bench, insert the bit into the 2" deep drilled hole and while taking care to not put any side pressure on the drill, finish drilling the hole through the blank. A better drill press or lathe is the best solution, but finances many times require us to be flexible, and to find other ways to accomplish a task. Take care and good luck.

 

[ed4copies]

I'd just make up a shim that is less then your quill travel, so if you have 2" make a 1-1/2" shim or two and just put them under the blank to raise it as required.

AK

Yeah, that's an idea. My clamp was a little low, so I'll have to change that a bit.

At least I know I've got figure something out other than flipping it. It's amazing I've been able to make any pens at all. Every once in a while I would get lucky with my drilling and it would work.

I have some ideas to try tonight.

My "shim" is a 2" (nominal, actually 1.75") block 8" x8" square. Put the blank on top of this block and drill another 2" (quill travel). I have three of these blocks and I have very few drill bits that are over 6" long, so it works for everything I do---except peppermills, but you don't want to talk about that yet.

 

[jzerger]

I use the pen- chuck on my lathe and when I'm concerned (often) that the bit won't line up exactly with the hole when I advance the tailstock, I don't back the bit completely out the blank before advancing the bit leave the tip of the bit in). Sometimes it takes a couple of advances with the with the bit but at least I get a hole throught the center.

 

[flippedcracker]

I tried it some ideas last night. Previously, with my jig, I was using the push toggle clamp thing, so I couldn't move the blank up as well because it wouldn't secure it if it wasn't in the middle. I had bought the pen vise to try to help with my situation, and (thanks to your suggestions) realized that now I can move the blank up a bit and still get good clamping. So I drilled to capacity, moved the blank up and then drilled the rest and it worked great. I'll keep an eye on any heat build up, but I think this could work without a new drill press (for now anyway).

Thanks for all the help!

 

[nava1uni]

You should look on crazedlist.org or Craigs list for a used Drill press. You can probably find one for the same or less the HF. If you don't remove the drill bit from the blank then moving the tail stock should not be an issue. I don't use the quill when drilling I only use the tail stock and move it by hand slowly so that I can back it out to remove chips. It works great.

 

[flippedcracker]

I've been looking here and there on CL for a decent DP. The hunt is still on, but not top priority.

I made a couple of pens last night, and the drilling, moving blank up, finishing worked just fine. The pen vise definitely helped the whole situation. Thanks for all the tips!