I have acquired some olive wood blanks and they have some incredible, wild graining. However, unlike some olive wood pens that I have seen, the graining on these blanks does not contrast much with the rest of the wood color. Is there a stain that I could add to them to make the grain stand out more?
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Skie_M
Member
I use Minwax Stain'n'Seal (Natural Amber) ... helps to enhance the appearance of the wood without changing colors (makes it a little darker, giving it a perpetual "wet" appearance). I freeze the appearance that way by applying my CA finish immediately over top of it.
Alternatively, you could get some black acrylic dye and dilute it in alcohol ... (95% isopropyl alcohol) and dye the surface of the wood .... sanding it once dry will make the end grain and softer portions of the wood stand out, while the harder portions will lose their inking first, giving an interesting coloration to your project. You could experiment using other colors as well ... I would suggest a dark brown for olivewood.
Alternatively, you could get some black acrylic dye and dilute it in alcohol ... (95% isopropyl alcohol) and dye the surface of the wood .... sanding it once dry will make the end grain and softer portions of the wood stand out, while the harder portions will lose their inking first, giving an interesting coloration to your project. You could experiment using other colors as well ... I would suggest a dark brown for olivewood.
Skie_M
Member
The Minwax Stain'n'Seal contains a bit of Boiled Linseed Oil, which helps to polymerize and cure the CA fast while letting it smooth on.
I use a type of low lint paper towel for my applicator (blue shop towels from an auto parts store). I fold it over 3 times in the same direction to create a long pad, and then cut that into 3/4" lengths for individual pads to use.
I apply a few drops of the Minwax to the pad, and apply at low speed on the lathe .... I can take it up to high speed if I want, but I want low speed for the CA application.
Immediately after I finish rubbing the Minwax all over the blanks, I apply a few drops of CA to the same applicator pad and apply it to the blank, rubbing from one end to the other and back again, completing 3 passes within 10 seconds ... and then I toss the applicator and don't touch the blank till I'm sure it's cured (I usually sit down and watch some anime ... 5 minutes is fine, but it's usually dried to the touch within 10 - 20 seconds).
After the first layer is cured, I add pure CA (no more Minwax) for each subsequent layer, up to 12 layers total. I then sand with 1000 grit (wet), proceed to micro mesh all the way up to 12,000 grit, and polish with Plast-X. Turtle Wax is my protectant of choice after polishing. Meguiar's Plast-X and Turtle Wax Hard Surface (liquid) I get at the auto parts store, with the blue shop towels.
I use a type of low lint paper towel for my applicator (blue shop towels from an auto parts store). I fold it over 3 times in the same direction to create a long pad, and then cut that into 3/4" lengths for individual pads to use.
I apply a few drops of the Minwax to the pad, and apply at low speed on the lathe .... I can take it up to high speed if I want, but I want low speed for the CA application.
Immediately after I finish rubbing the Minwax all over the blanks, I apply a few drops of CA to the same applicator pad and apply it to the blank, rubbing from one end to the other and back again, completing 3 passes within 10 seconds ... and then I toss the applicator and don't touch the blank till I'm sure it's cured (I usually sit down and watch some anime ... 5 minutes is fine, but it's usually dried to the touch within 10 - 20 seconds).
After the first layer is cured, I add pure CA (no more Minwax) for each subsequent layer, up to 12 layers total. I then sand with 1000 grit (wet), proceed to micro mesh all the way up to 12,000 grit, and polish with Plast-X. Turtle Wax is my protectant of choice after polishing. Meguiar's Plast-X and Turtle Wax Hard Surface (liquid) I get at the auto parts store, with the blue shop towels.
jttheclockman
Member
Hello Andy
Not sure how you are finishing the olive wood pens right now but what I suggest is use any oil product to give the lighter wood some warm color. Things such a BLO (boiled linseed oil) or even a Danish oil my favorite. You can get into adding dyes and colorants but then you are forcing what Mother nature gave you. Some olive woods are just graded as average and not premium grade. I would let the oil dry so that it soaks in completely before applying a CA finish. Just the way I would do it. I do not use an oil mixed with CA to apply a finish. I never found a need or advantage of it. (And yes I did try some 12 years ago when I started this) Good luck.