PR turning help needed please

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skiprat

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Hi Guys, I have just got a load of PR blanks that Dawn ( PR Princess ) custom made for me.:D

I have tried to search for the answer, but gave up after 25mins looking. :(
They cut like butter on the bandsaw and drilled like a dream.
But....

No matter how I try, there is always chips or chatter when I cut.
I tried it first on my wood lathe at warp speed using a small gouge, then a small scraper. Both are pretty sharp. I can't use a skew [:I]

Then I tried on my metal lathe at about 1000rev and using a tungsten cutter. No better.

Is there a technique that I should use that is different fron turning acrylics?
Normally I would just go for it, but I've spent hours on this blank and I really don't want to ruin it

Thanks Guys ( and Gals of course ):D
 
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ahoiberg

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skip,

what i generally do is when i get it close to the final diameter, use your skew as a scraper and take real light cuts and that will get rid of the chips/chatter. i can't use a skew in the traditional sense either, but it works great when you need a final, smooth cut on PR or acrylic.

hope this helps.
 

GaryMGg

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Steven,

Have you gotten the DVD from Cozee; it shows Ed using a 1" skew. If you watch that, you'll get it. Also watch Alan Lacer and Richard Raffin. The skew is your solution.
A razor sharp skew will eat 'em alive and leave a glass finish.
Watch the tutorials, then practice on some cheap wood.
And, of course, light, light cuts.

Gary
 

skiprat

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Andrew and Gary, thanks for very quick answers. I guess I'm just going to have to conquer my fear of the skew. [:I][:(]
I probably will put this aside till I learn some more. I've only used my skew to open paint tins so far.[:eek:)]
Here's a pic of what I'm trying to do. Will a skew work on this?

200784211357_prblank.jpg
<br />

The little white specs are the chips with dried wet-sanding residue in them
 

LEAP

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Steven,
I've used the skew on aluminium (I think thats how you Brits spell it[:)]) so the brass should give you no problems. Have a look at Ed Davidson's PR bottle stopper videos on the IAP home page articles, and like Gary said if you can get a hold of the Alan Lacer videos they are worth every penny.
 

GaryMGg

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Steven,
Did you take a knot, split it dead center on the "x", flip 'em end to end and reglue
the blank to make that. If so, you're insane! [:p] That's AWESOME looking!!!
Just sharpen your skew and practice. Trust me, IF I can do it, YOU sure can. [;)]
 

Milpaul

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Do you have problems with other PR or just hers? If its not just those blanks, my technique is similar to ahoibergs, using a combination of gouge and skew but I think you have to experiment to find what works best for you. Just to show you how it takes time to get comfortable I was going through an old box of scraps I keep and found a bunch of PR blanks. I remember throwing them away when I first started turning material other than wood, and said they were "garbage." I turned the blanks yesterday and the "garbage" looked pretty good! [:D]
 

skiprat

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Originally posted by GaryMGg
<br />Steven,
Did you take a knot, split it dead center on the "x", flip 'em end to end and reglue
the blank to make that. If so, you're insane! [:p] That's AWESOME looking!!!
Just sharpen your skew and practice. Trust me, IF I can do it, YOU sure can. [;)]

[:D][:D][:D] Gary, some people do think I'm a nutter, but this is easy peasy to make. A few posts ago, I showed how to get an accurate knot by not cutting all the way through the blank, this was done the same way but the cut only goes up to the dead centre of the blank.
The material is flattened copper pipe. The 'eyes' in the middle are just smaller copper tube with some alternative ivory turned and press fitted into the tubes.

The DVD that Cozee made, is that the one of the demo's at a show that he was selling not too long ago? Does anyone know if the format of the DVD will work in the UK?
I have never heard of Alan Lacer, but will Google him in a minute[:D]
 

skiprat

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Originally posted by Milpaul
<br />Do you have problems with other PR or just hers? If its not just those blanks, my technique is similar to ahoibergs, using a combination of gouge and skew but I think you have to experiment to find what works best for you. Just to show you how it takes time to get comfortable I was going through an old box of scraps I keep and found a bunch of PR blanks. I remember throwing them away when I first started turning material other than wood, and said they were "garbage." I turned the blanks yesterday and the "garbage" looked pretty good! [:D]

I have never turned PR before and I'm positive it is NOT Dawn's material at fault. I only bought from Dawn because of the great reputation her PR has. I know others have had similar problems turning any PR too. I would not have mentioned Dawn if I had any doubt about the quality of her PR. Even if I did, then I would have contacted her directly.[;)]
 

its_virgil

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Watch the video in our library by Ed Davidson aka YoYoSpin. He shows how to turn resin with a skew used as a scraper. I turn my snake blanks with a skew from start to finish. They can be sanded round and almost to the bushings on a sander, then finish turning with a scraper. Good luck and Do a good turn daily!
Don
 

skiprat

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Thanks for pointing me back to Ed's video's. I have just watched them and he certainly does make it look easy, doesn't he.[:D] The best thing that really made me feel better was that he used a scraper first and got the exact same results as I did, just to show the difference. Thank you Mr Davidson.

First thing in the morning I'm going to chop up a couple of broom handles and spend the day practicing.

Now.....where did I put my tin opener....[;)]
 

Rudy Vey

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I use my skew like a scraper in the final stages of the turning - make sure it is sharp and take very light cuts only. My way of turning acrylics, pr and any other plastics is to use a spindle gouge first, then the skew, see above. Sometimes I cut off the corners on my band saw or even round them over with a disk sander.
 

thewishman

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I've had similar experience with Dawn's PR, it is very chippy for me (though not as chippy as inlace acrylester). It pays to keep working with it because it is BEAUTIFUL and very shiny when polished. The hardness helps make the pen take, and keep, a great shine.

Chris

P.S. I still kick myself for not getting a hands-on demonstration from Ed at the MPG - he made it look incredibly simple and FAST to turn PR.
 

neon007

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The best way I have found to turn PR is with a skew. What I do is hold my skew almost vertical. Id say about at 70 degrees or more. Take light cuts and stay sharp. I use a skew begining to end with PR. I just use different cutting technics. Hope this helps.
 

mdburn_em

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Get your blank down close to the bushings and then sand the rest of the way. You can still finish your pen and practice with your skew at the same time. Trust me, those chips will sand out.
 

gerryr

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Steven,
Dawn knows how to mix this stuff. She uses just enough catalyst so it will harden but not enough to make it brittle. There is some PR around that is like trying to turn glass, but not hers. Don Ward also knows how to mix it right. Just learn to use that skew and you will breeze through this stuff. We know you can do it.
 

stevers

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I like Dawns stuff too. Turned pretty good for me. Sharp tools always helps. I also sand my PR round before I take out the tools. I'm still a little scared of acrylics and PR's.
 

UKpenmaker

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Steven, if you are still struggling with your skew, just let me know an i will come down and show you how to ride one.[:p] We may fall off a couple of times though[:p]
Once you get the hang of them they are quite easy to use.[:I]
 

skiprat

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Andrew, are you sure?, that is a very kind offer, and one that I will glady accept.[:D]
Please let me know when you're free. Perhaps you could try out my pressure pot before you buy one too. I'm free this weekend and next, then its back on the road for me[:(]

Thanks again[:D]
 

EeyorIs21

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I prefer the plastics over wood, but only because I cannot finish a wood pen to meet my standards.

Anyways, I normally turn PR with a scraper. Very slow process. You can use a parting tool(wider is better so doesn't take so long) to rough the blank to general shape. Then use a scraper to blend everything together. If there is still some chatter just rough to shape a little proud of the bushings. Then go to a course sandpaper to remove the chatter.

My process is time consuming. But I do not know how to properly use a skew either. I have the Alan Lacer DVD, it is awesome, but still practicing. I prefer the AA or celluloid(this stuff rocks). I have completed several PR blanks this way. I also use the same process for the imitation ivory since it seems pretty brittle to me.
 

Darley

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Originally posted by skiprat
<br />Andrew and Gary, thanks for very quick answers. I guess I'm just going to have to conquer my fear of the skew. [:I][:(]
I probably will put this aside till I learn some more. I've only used my skew to open paint tins so far.[:eek:)]
Here's a pic of what I'm trying to do. Will a skew work on this?

200784211357_prblank.jpg
<br />

The little white specs are the chips with dried wet-sanding residue in them

your skew will work very well but make sure is sharp, if you want to know how to sharp it buy Alan lance video, the chip you have on the blank is because you use the scraper, if you use the scraper you cut on 90' angle ( vertical ) skew is 32' less chipping and very nice ribbon look at this
200785111747_PR.jpg
<br />

No secret use a sharp skew, start to round the left and right edge first then from midle to the left and midle to the right, practice, practice, practice, I use a 1" skew and start from the left edge to the right edge in 1 go after rounding up the PR blank. BTW nice blank like the way you pour white PR in the water pipe, am I right?
 

ashaw

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Skiprat

I have turned a number of Dawn's PR. Have had no problems with them. Alternative materials like Ivory are also PR. When is first started turning them I would have chips out like crazy. I use a skew only. I realized it was not sharp enough and I was also be accessive with the cuting. No all more skews are sharp. I use three skews. One for the rough turning next one to get to final dimensions +1/8". I use the third one only for the finish cut. That one I do not have to sharpen all the time.

Good luck with your turning.
 

Rmartin

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I have a way. I don't have a video, but I have a way.

I use a round nosed scrapper to make it round, and a skew to shape. Make sure you have a straight edge skew. Many have a curved edge to them and that can be trouble. The leading edge or trailing edge will dig into the blank.

I also developed a technique when turning Corian. Once round, rather then going up and down the blank, I use my scrapper in place and rather aggressivly dig into one spot. Then I move down a little and do the same thing. I'm able to clear away more material faster. Then I switch to a straight edged skew to even everything out. I start about an eight of an inch from one end as if I'm going to make a bead. Then I take that little section down to the diameter I want. I move down the blank cutting a small section at a time even with the last. I turn at the highest speed my lathe will go.

Rmartin
 
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As many before me have stated, a sharp skew it the ultimate answer. What you can do until you get that technique down is to leave the blank way fat and finish it off with sand paper. It will have to be fat enough that you will be able to sand past the pitting.
 

skiprat

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Originally posted by UKpenmaker
<br />Any day next week-end is OK with me Steven, i will certainly have a look at your pressure pot as well. I am definately getting closer to buying one.[:)]

Thanks Andrew, it will be a pleasure to meet you. If it's ok with you then can we do Saturday? LOML has instructed me that we will be with the in-laws on Sunday. Maybe if I can hurt myself real bad, then I won't have to go[}:)] I will e-mail my address to you.

I did have a go today for a few hours. [xx(] Why didn't someone warn me to wear a cricket box? I also have a bruise on my hip. Thanks, I'll bet Gerry knew that was going to happen[}:)][:D]
After that, I was hanging on so hard that my hands went numb[:eek:)]

But I think I'll get there before I can ever get a good wood finish.
[:D]

Thanks for all the advice
 
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