PR is kicking my tuchus!!

[PaulSF]

My first time turning PR, the Merlin's Magic from Exotic Blanks. I just know it will be beautiful, if only I could refrain from tearing it to pieces. And it's taking FOREVER. Any tips? I know sharp tools, but should I be taking my tool to the bench grinder every 2 minutes? Maybe I need something that will stay sharper longer. Any recommendations there?

 

[Displaced Canadian]

Don't turn your back to it then it can't kick you. :biggrin:

 

[ldb2000]

What tools are you using and how are you using them ?

 

[RAdams]

This is how u turn my PR blanks.


First, I turn the lathe up as fast as it will go with the slowest belt pulley (1500 rpm or something) Then i use a sharp spindle gouge to make it round. Then i switch to a round nose scraper. It may help to use a parting too and cut a tiny tenon on each end to get the material close to bushing size to protect it from chipping so badly.

That's pretty much it. I sharpen my scraper once a pen usually, sometimes twice, sometimes not at all.

 

[traderdon55]

I have read where some people round off the edges with a belt sander. I just round mine with a skew and when I get about half way to size I go ahead and turn each end down very close to finished size. Turning the ends down close to the finished size helps to avoid any chipping as you finish turning the rest of the pen down to the finished size. Everybody has their favorite tools but I have found the skew start to finish gives me the best results especially on acrylics.

 

[witz1976]

I wish there was someone around my neck of the woods who uses a skew to round off the blank. I tried it once and it almost was a bad scene. So now i use a 1" roughing gouge that is super sharp. Once it is round I switch to a skew, and finish with this.

 

[Lenny]

I use a gouge initially ...and YES it has to be sharp!! Also be cautious at each end of the blank ... gently turn it to round working from the end towards the middle. Don't be too aggressive, and don't be discouraged ... I think most of us have had a chip out or two along the way. :wink:

 

[randyrls]

When starting to round a square blank turning-between-centers a catch is sure to stop the spin because of the dead center.

If using a mandrel, loosen the mandrel nut so catches don't shatter the blank. I have not done this so use caution.

When rounding any blank a face shield, goggles, or safety glasses is mandatory!

 

[ngeb528]

I've found that Bitshirds Woodchuck Pen Pro is fantastic when working on acrylics.

It takes a little getting used to but it's well worth the time.

I do the last little fine tuning with a skew but the Pen Pro does the rest of the cutting.

 

[JoeHodge1978]

and don't be discouraged ... I think most of us have had a chip out or two along the way. :wink:

How about 5 or 10

 

[mbroberg]

I use to use a gouge to round my acrylics, I've also used a skew. Now I use Woodchuck Pen Pro. No matter what tool you use remember these three words:
Sharp - Light - FAST. Sharp tools, light passes, and spin that blank just as fast as your lathe can spin it.

 

[hunter-27]

I use a skew from start to finish on my acrylics regardless of square or round to start and turn at the highest speed I have on my Jet 1014. Light cuts is the key with the skew, especially while rounding it(this is also the MUST WEAR time for a face shield). Those flying pieces sting and are hard on eyeballs.

 

[TellicoTurning]

I use a skew from start to finish on my acrylics regardless of square or round to start and turn at the highest speed I have on my Jet 1014. Light cuts is the key with the skew, especially while rounding it(this is also the MUST WEAR time for a face shield). Those flying pieces sting and are hard on eyeballs.

I haven't heard the Tuchus expression since leaving SF in 1980...

Like the Hunter, I use a skew from start to finish with the lathe at 1800 or 2600 rpms... next to last speed on my 5 sped 1014... set the skew on the tool rest at an angle, about 40 deg... then let it do the work. if you're having trouble getting to the round stage, you could use a 1/2 in. round nose scraper, but only to take the corners off... the blank will get chippy with the scraper or spindle gouge.... don't get too aggressive, let the skew do it's work.
And since I got smacked in the eye, I wear my face shield for everything. I'm still nursing a shiner.

 

[PenMan1]

Very light touch on VERY SHARP tools. about 2000 Rpms on speed. tool rest as close as possible. Don't "strangle the gouge", light grip.

Once rounded, switch to very sharp skew, loose grip, closer tool rest, breath and think happy thoughts.

Once you learn PR, IMHO, Merlin's Majic and Ancient Mars are the two easiest to turn.

REMEMBER, NOT TOO FAST, SHARP TOOLS, LOOSE GRIP, FEATHER LITE PASSES!
Hang in there, when you get the first one right, this stuff is easy.

 

[PenMan1]

You might want to consider knocking off the square edges with a belt sander, then use a skew or scraper only. When I was first learning acrylics, that made it easier for me.

 

[PenMan1]

I use to use a gouge to round my acrylics, I've also used a skew. Now I use Woodchuck Pen Pro. No matter what tool you use remember these three words:
Sharp - Light - FAST. Sharp tools, light passes, and spin that blank just as fast as your lathe can spin it.

I've tried all the others and have always gone back to a carbide skew and gouge. I have heard SO MANY GOOD THINGS about the Woodchuck Pro Pen that the next time my wife leaves here wallet laying around I'm gonna send ol Ken bout $80!

 

[PaulSF]

Hah, Merlins Magic is what I'm working on!!!

 

[JBCustomPens]

After turning many acrylic, PR, inlace acylester, acrylic acetate I have learned something. I realized that I had to go sharpen my tools even 2 mins. And also it was taking me forever to turn an acrylic blank. Here's what I do now.

1. Prepare blank as usual.
2. Mount on a mandrel ( I had to find a use for them as I TBC), with plenty of space around the blank.
3. Go to a belt sander.
4. Round the blank over until there are no square edges.
5. Keep sanding the blank until it is about 1/16" or 1/8" from the bushings. (depends how comfortable you are with a belt sander).
6. Mount and finish as usual.

I find that using this method has taking less time and wear and tear on my tools. I hope this can help someone!

 

[PaulSF]

OK, when you've probably lost it, you might as well try the skew!!

That seemed to work better than the gouge, although it's still taking a long time. Then right at the end of this first blank (yeah, I've still got one to go!!), I had a few small chips fly off. I can't really trim down the blank any more. So I've drizzled a bunch of thick CA over the area where the chips flew off, and I'm going to try to sand that down to an even surface when it's cured. Has anyone tried doing this before?

 

[ed4copies]

http://www.youtube.com/my_videos?feature=mhw4

See if this helps.

I hate to keep "plugging" it, but after you watch it, an epiphany MAY happen.

 

[ed4copies]

Frame of reference!

How about 5 or 10

Hey Joe,

When I started doing acrylics and resins in the mid-1990's there were NO fora available. CSUSA's instructions said use a scraper and turn slowly.

I "blew up" DOZENS of blanks, before I developed a method that worked for me. A one inch roughing gouge from start to finish.

Then, I came to the IAP a few years ago and read all about people turning resins with a skew. Well, now I swear by a skew. BUT, I CAN turn resin with any tool you pick up--you start to understand the material. I HEAR problems coming when the blank is not turning right.

There is NO substitute for experience. BUT, when you find you are making ribbons and things are going GREAT, study what you are doing, so you can repeat it!!

ANY tool will work. High speed of rotation and take off the ends early. Sanding off the square, to make it round DOES make it easier.

Hope this helps!!!

If you WANT some blanks for practice, say so in the "comments" section of your order. We will include some that have bubbles, so we can't sell them, but they make great practice pieces.:biggrin::biggrin:

 

[PaulSF]

Lots of great advice, and I'm going to watch the video in a moment. I managed to turn that first blank down, sanded and polished it, all the pits are gone. I was actually able to sand it down enough to make them disappear. The interesting thing is that there seem to be cracks deep down. They aren't sanding rings. Theories?

 

[ed4copies]

Now that you are that far, MOVE your toolrest close to the work.

Hopefully, tomorrow we will stay home long enough I can make a couple vids of different tools. TRY to make this understandable.

 

[PaulSF]

I won't be doing the cap piece until Monday. Thanks for all the great advice!

 

[randyrls]

I haven't heard the Tuchus expression since leaving SF in 1980...

And since I got smacked in the eye, I wear my face shield for everything. I'm still nursing a shiner.

Chuck; OUCH!!!

 

[jocat54]

Paul, I do as some of the others-I use a skew from start to finish ( on everything wood or resin). Make use your tools are sharp! when you think they are sharp hone them some more

 

[Spats139]

One more vote for the skew - start to finish.

It's already been said, but it bears repeating; sharp tools and a light touch (no matter what tool you're using). When you hit the sweet spot the tool moves across the blank almost effortlessly. As soon as you feel like you're forcing it you either need to change your tool position, or sharpen the skew. The time it takes to stop and sharpen the tool you'll more than make up when you start turning again. Watching a nicely shaped barrel emerge from the blank should be fun; don't spoil it by trying to get a dull tool to do something it can't.