Gonna try turning a comfort grip pen

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Anything I should know before beginning? It's the PSI version sold by my local WW store.

This will be my first pen that is not a slimline.

Gregory of HereComeDeNewPens Forest
 
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sbell111

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The best advice for making a comfort grip pen is to throw the rubber thing in the trash. Then turn the pen in a pleasing shape from bushing to bushing.
 

hewunch

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If you use the grip, leave the wood part long say 1/8-1/4 so you have plenty of material to part off. Then as you are ready to part, hold the grip up to the spot you will be parting off and eyeball where to make the part. Remember the rubber will compress but it will not stretch (much) so better to leave it a little long than a little short.
 

jkeithrussell

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As to your apprehension about moving beyond the Slimline, it's my opinion that the Slimline is one of the harder pens to make (at least correctly) because the margin for error is so small. If you can make a Slim, you can make any pen.
 
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Thanks for the suggestions, guys, but I can't make it without the grip. This pen is by LOML's request. It's for her.

PARTING?? I've never done a parting before. I've never even turned a wooden pen yet, just acrylics. I threw a spare wood pen blank in the chuck tonight for the first time- I don't even know if I put it in the chuck correctly. Heck, I didn't even know whether or not to use a live or dead center. I ended up using a live center on the tailstock and the chuck in the headstock. Could I have used a dead center on the headstock there?


Gregory of IAmSooooooLost Forest
 

GBusardo

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Greg, Don't sweat it, just do it!!! Are u using a mandrel? I am trying to think of a way to turn a slim or a comfort with out a mandrel and I am coming up blank. Read the instructions that come with the pen kit. All you really need is a way to drill the blank, glue, a mandrel, a live center (hopefully 60 degrees) and some gouges. Actually, two tools. Either a skew or a spindle gouge and a parting tool and some sandpaper. A parting tool is very easy to use. The parting tool is used to clear away the wood from the tube so you can slip the rubber thing on. By the way, the only comfort I think I ever made with the rubber thing is for my wife :) she loves it.
 

GBusardo

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Greg, i just seen your older post with the three acrylic pens. I didn't know how far along you were. You won't have any problems turning a comfort. Like the Nike ad says, JUST DO IT! The pen will turn out fine :)
 
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GBusardo,
Thanks- How do I 'part'? I tried using the parting tool tonight, but stopped with about 1/4 inch to go before being through. Do I go all the through while it is still connected to the live center, or back that off first?

Greg
 

nava1uni

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I make lots of comfort pens. They are nice pens and good for people with arthritis or other muscular problems. The parting goes all the way to the brass tube. Also clean off the brass tube so there are no bumps underneath the rubber because they will be felt when the person applies pressure to the pen. Comfort pens also work well for people who press really hold the pen real tightly when they write. PSI makes a larger rubber piece and CSUSA, Woodcraft make a different one. Don't glue the rubber onto the tube, just leave it on the tube. Good luck, PM if you have any problems.
 

randyrls

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Anything I should know before beginning? It's the PSI version sold by my local WW store.

This will be my first pen that is not a slimline.

Gregory; The "Comfort" pen is one of my most popular.

If I am using the rubber bushing, I cut the lower barrel to just the length needed and I have a special "spacer" bushing that takes up the space on the nib tube. I just turn down to about the correct size. I must tell you that like many, I do not often use the rubber grip.

The most important thing is to get a clean and even "sweep" across the centerband. If you have calipers, use them to size to fittings and centerband. I do not use the center bushing, I butt the two blanks together, and turn as a single piece using the calipers to size the center joint. I turn down the center section to just above finished diameter and then work on the taper down to the ends.

Any pen with tapered barrels is a step up in difficulty. A straight barreled pen in a larger size will be just as easy as a slimline if it doesn't need a tenon.
 
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