Gluing pen blanks
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Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
Thick CA.
smoky10
Member
What Monty said.
badger
Member
Same.
Blind_Squirrel
Member
It depends on what type of pen I am making. Epoxy, Gorilla Glue, CA, cast PR directly onto the tube.
GoodTurns
Member
Thick CA for wood, Epoxy for acrylics....not sure if it makes a difference, but someone said to do it that way! (and it seems to work!)
Jarheaded
Member
Thick CA normally or gorilla glue if you drill a hole that is a hair too big. I used a 27/64 bit and drill 10 cigar blanks that were all high end. Gorilla glue save the blanks and did the job. The customer was happy with the results.
Johnnie
Johnnie
rlharding
Member
Whatever you use, don't use JB Weld 
LostintheWoods
Member
Medium CA for the most part, sometimes use 5-minute epoxy for acrylics.
rherrell
Member
Medium ca.
thewishman
Member
Thick CA or 5 minute epoxy. The CA smell is like nails through the skull, the epoxy just plain stinks.
Chris
Chris
arjudy
Member
5 minute epoxy. Have never had a tube come loose with it.
Ditto here. I started using epoxy on acrylics because I thought I got better coverage and I didn't have any color variations with the ones that didn't have their tubes painted. I also like the longer working time with the epoxy when doing the acrylics, it lets me really turn the tube and slide it up-and-down inside the pen blank.
stevers
Member
Medium and thick CA
Aderhammer
Member
epoxy for everything, medium cure, set in a tin box w/ space heater in front, stronger than ca and ready to turn in an hour to an hour and a half.
IPD_Mrs
Member
We will use thick CA and quick Gorilla Glue. Both have their purpose.
Mike
Mike
DonWood
Member
I have been using the new Gorilla Glue which is much faster drying and does not foam quite as much. Am very pleased with it. Previously I had Gorilla glue crack some acrylics since it foamed so much, but with the new Gorilla Glue I have had no problems at all. I like it a lot!
Russianwolf
Member
GG only.
I tried CA, but wasn't getting good contact even on the slimlines with a 7mm hole.
I tried epoxy and it worked well, but I disliked having to mix it.
GG works well and you don't have to mix.
I let mine sit overnight although I've heard a couple hours is adequate.
I tried CA, but wasn't getting good contact even on the slimlines with a 7mm hole.
I tried epoxy and it worked well, but I disliked having to mix it.
GG works well and you don't have to mix.
I let mine sit overnight although I've heard a couple hours is adequate.
woody0207
Member
When I initially took a penturning class at Woodcraft the instructor, who had been making pens for about 6 years, said that he now uses GG exclusively.
I started out using medium CA because it was so much faster. No advance planning necessary, ready to turn in 15-30 minutes. However, on occasion I did have tubes come back out when I was milling the piece. I was scratching the tubes prior to gluing and everything that is recommended. Still had an occasional problem with CA.
I switched to GG and have not had a single problem. The only minor issue is you need to plan ahead a little bit. I drill and glue the blanks up the night before I'm ready to turn. Regardless of the fact there is some foaming, the dried GG glue cleans up very easily. I'm a believer in GG, and it cleans off the fingers a lot easier. [8D]
I started out using medium CA because it was so much faster. No advance planning necessary, ready to turn in 15-30 minutes. However, on occasion I did have tubes come back out when I was milling the piece. I was scratching the tubes prior to gluing and everything that is recommended. Still had an occasional problem with CA.
I switched to GG and have not had a single problem. The only minor issue is you need to plan ahead a little bit. I drill and glue the blanks up the night before I'm ready to turn. Regardless of the fact there is some foaming, the dried GG glue cleans up very easily. I'm a believer in GG, and it cleans off the fingers a lot easier. [8D]
VisExp
Member
I've been using CA to glue the tubes into the blanks. The problem that I keep on having is that I put the tube in the blank and rotate it a couple of times to spread the glue. Then often the glue sets before I have time to get the tube all the way into the blank and I'm left with 1/8" or so of tube still sticking out the tube!
Does the CA set faster here in Florida because of the heat or am I just slow? [:I]
I just brought some 5 minute epoxy and some Titebond polyurethane glue (seems like the same stuff as Gorilla Glue but cheaper). I am going to try both of these and see which method I prefer.
For those who are using the polyurethane. How do you apply it? Do you dunk the blank in water and apply the glue to the tube?
Does the CA set faster here in Florida because of the heat or am I just slow? [:I]
I just brought some 5 minute epoxy and some Titebond polyurethane glue (seems like the same stuff as Gorilla Glue but cheaper). I am going to try both of these and see which method I prefer.
For those who are using the polyurethane. How do you apply it? Do you dunk the blank in water and apply the glue to the tube?
VisExp
Member
Anyone?
rhahnfl
Member
If I get in the mood to, I swab the drilled blank with a wet Q-tip and then apply the glue to the tube. I think it does help the glue to set better but as much humidity as I have it just speeds it up a bit.
marionquill
Member
I use 5 minute epoxy on it all for the most part. Though I have and many problems with the 5 minute epoxy with acrylics (only when using the pen mill â€" gets too hot and the tube comes out) â€" so anyway, today I tried to mix some medium CA with the epoxy and the CA set before I got the tube were I wanted it...it set so quickly - less than 5 seconds and that tube wasn't moving for NOTHING!
I've also tried to use Gorilla glue on acrylics and it didn't stick well - I've tried to mix it with the 5 minute epoxy too with pitiful results.
Jason
I've also tried to use Gorilla glue on acrylics and it didn't stick well - I've tried to mix it with the 5 minute epoxy too with pitiful results.
Jason
marionquill
Member
By the way, I tried to use water to help the epoxy "expand" as the package said - it happened to be on a white acrylic blank - a couple days later when I went to the store to see if had sold, it looked like crap - the brass turned green - a bad day for me, a good day for my 9 year old
Jason
Jason
jwoodwright
Member
The polyurethane glues need moisture and the foaming is a good thing. It makes a better bond. I use to get "hydraulic expansion" and the 7mm tube would be half out the next day. Russ Fairfield has an easy solution, use a 9/32 instead of a 7mm... Poly needs room to expand.
On very dry wood or any non-wood, swab the inside of the blank.
Poly needs overnight to set well, so drill, glue and do something else...
Side note, found longer you let CA cure, less likely to have CA failure...[:I]
On very dry wood or any non-wood, swab the inside of the blank.
Poly needs overnight to set well, so drill, glue and do something else...
Side note, found longer you let CA cure, less likely to have CA failure...[:I]
RHossack
Member
> Whatever you use, don't use JB Weld
Mind if I ask why?
I've been using the J-B KWIK to glue up some red fir bark rings
and it's the only thing I've found to stick to the brass and the
bark?
I've been thinking of using it on other blanks as well.
Mind if I ask why?
I've been using the J-B KWIK to glue up some red fir bark rings
and it's the only thing I've found to stick to the brass and the
bark?
I've been thinking of using it on other blanks as well.