Gluing parts. Do you or don't you?

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pegasus70

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Recently, I have had two people report that they had lost the end cap and clip from pens I had made them as gifts. It occurred to me that I have read somewhere that some folks glue various pen parts together rather than just press fitting them (or in these cases simply screwing the end cap into its receiver). So I thought I would ask, do you or don't you? And if you do, what parts?
 
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flyitfast

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If I have to "glue" parts, I normally use Loctite blue. If you use CA it can cause damage to the plating, whereas the Loctite will not affect the plating. Loctite Blue will normally hold parts together, but will release if you have to take the pen apart. Loctitie Red is almost like making a permanent glue up. It normally will not come apart easily.
Gordon
 

WriteON

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I only glue if the tip or any fitting is not snug. If it inserts without resistance and does not feel right I will glue. Only have done that once or twice.
 

thewishman

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After nearly 10 years of making pens, I ALWAYS use blue Loctite, with two exceptions: cigar upper centerband and Jr. series cap threads. In rare cases, when the fit is not at all tight, I use epoxy.

Any parts that screw together will come loose over time and use. Your customer doesn't want and shouldn't have to put the pen back together. Clips on cigars and euros are especially prone to coming loose and it doesn't matter how tight you screw the finials on.

A dab of Loctite on the female threads and a nice bit in the brass tube for each press fit will improve your perceived quality - especially for repeat customers. Be sure to take a Q-tip and wipe off any extra on the inside of the joints before assembling the pen - a stray drop will mess up a spring or seal up a slip fit on a transmission.
 

SteveG

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There are many pen styles that rely on the pressed-in finial piece to not only hold the clip on the pen, but also to stay very tight iot prevent the clip from possibly rotating around the cap/barrel. It would only take a very small amount of looseness to eventually develop for the clip to be able to rotate. Since I have had to deal, in the past, with a few pens that did eventually develop that problem, I paid attention. The thought was: "How many of the pens I make and sell will be considered 'shoddy' as a result of a loose clip?" From that point forward I have used Loctite during assembly on every pen. It is a waste of time to test fit to see if the Loctite is needed, because a nice snug fit today may be a loose clip a year later with a regularly used pen. So I sell lots of pens, AND sleep good at night!:biggrin: Loctite is your friend.
 

magpens

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I was told that Blue Loctite was not meant to be used in situations without threads ...ie. in press fit situations. I wouldn't use CA for the reason given above. I use epoxy on all press fit joins where the long-term integrity of the join is questionable, and that means in almost *all* situations, especially in those situations where the clip can possibly rotate.

As a related sideline, I have found in the case of the 30 Caliber Bolt Action pens (PSI patent), on the nib press fit and the cap press fit, that the male parts are oversize due to excessive plating. As a result, I have had several blanks crack when pressing parts together. So, to avoid that happening, I now ream out the tube ends with an adjustable straight reamer and then glue (with epoxy) the nib and cap in on all such pens. I would be interested in hearing if anyone else does this ream/glue operation.

I would also be interested in hearing if anyone has had Blue Loctite fail to hold, although I don't use it.
 
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1080Wayne

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Years ago I had the blue fail in press fit on slims , so I switched to red on all finials/clips , press fit and threaded . Also on nibs , if they don`t protest enough when inserted . However , I doubt if either it or epoxy is totally fail-proof .
 

SteveG

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Once I had decided to use Loctite, base on previous discussions over the years, and my own experience of need to use some type of adhesive, I wanted to use the best product for the intended purpose. Red Loctite was designed to provide a strong, fairly permanent bond. So I tried a test, to see if the bond could be broken without destroying the pen, when the need to disassemble would arise. I found that I could break a pen down after using the Red during assembly. So Red Loctite is what I use every time, unless the fit is so loose that epoxy is called for.
I want to clarify and add info to my previous post. I talked about using Loctite on every pen. I do limit that to the press joints that serve to secure a clip. For the remaining joints, I am selective, and use it (or not use it), based on my prior experience, and how tight the fit feels. The other joints are often not heavily stressed, and just need to stay together. They are not critical as are the clip-holding joints. I do use the Red Loctite on all thread assembly joints.
 

Joey-Nieves

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I usually Don't but as Frank (Writon) Says, only when the parts don't fit snug. I have a problem with that Rogue cigar holders from Berea, the regular size uses the parts pressed in the inside of the tube, and if you follow the instructions you a 53/64" hole on the blank only to find that it fits to tight. Once you overcome this you turn the parts and find that the bushings fell loose, then when you assemble it you find the parts are loose. I found that the brass tube is not the wright size (I've made about 10) so I write to berea and they say that the kit is perfect and that your supposed to use glue on all parts on any kit, I believe the polite answer for this would be Poppycock.
So in summary, if you need to use glue on a part that was made to be pressed in it's because the part does not meet tolerance.
Joey
 

RickLong

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Loctite is awesome adhesive and just about every pen during assembly will get a little to make sure it doesn't return to my shop for a repair. I was trying to use AC glue at first but lost a ton of pens due to getting a little ac on the plating...
 

Sprung

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I made the mistake of using CA on a couple of my earliest pens. After doing some research, I've been using just a little bit of red loctite when assembling my pens. It makes a big difference and I have not had any problems disassembling any pen I've assembled with red loctite. I did try the blue loctite, but I found that it doesn't work so well for joints that are "under pressure" from clips, so I use the red now.

Just don't use too much - I had a mini bolt action that I rendered useless because of too much red loctite - it got into the slide of the bolt action and all bets were off...
 

Warren White

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This is why....

...I love this forum! I had never heard of using Loctite to solve a problem I guess many of us have (including me).

Now a few questions: I will go out and buy a bottle of Red Loctite, but would like a little advice on how to best apply it to the clip end of the pen. Do you put it inside the tube or on the cap? Should you use something to clean the area to be 'loctited'? Is one drop sufficient? Do you spin the cap to spread it around like you do when you are gluing the tubes? What do you se to clean any that inadvertently gets where it shouldn't be?

So many questions...
 

Sylvanite

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I have had several blanks crack when pressing parts together. So, to avoid that happening, I now ream out the tube ends with an adjustable straight reamer and then glue (with epoxy) the nib and cap in on all such pens. I would be interested in hearing if anyone else does this ream/glue operation.
Whenever I have a blank that is prone to bulging or cracking, or if I'm paying particular attention to fit, I ream out the tube so that the press-fit components become slip-fit. During final assembly, I glue them with red loctite. Also, some kits (like those from silverpenparts) are slip-fit to begin with, so gluing is necessary.

Regards,
Eric
 

Carl Fisher

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I haven't met a pen kit yet that I haven't had to glue at least one part at some time or another. I don't care how expensive the kit, they all develop issues with press fit and factory adhesives when you do outdoor shows in the summer.

I use epoxy most of the time but do occasionally use loctite if it's handy and only needs a little assistance.
 
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SteveG

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...I love this forum! I had never heard of using Loctite to solve a problem I guess many of us have (including me).

Now a few questions: I will go out and buy a bottle of Red Loctite, but would like a little advice on how to best apply it to the clip end of the pen. I found Loctite in GEL form, which is easy to apply with a toothpick right where you want it to go. Do you put it inside the tube or on the cap? Apply to inside tube surface, resulting in little visible "squeeze out. Should you use something to clean the area to be 'loctited'? I use a small cylindrical wire brush, found in plumbing at Home Depot (brush intended for use on copper pipe prior to soldering, is too large diameter, but can be shaped down to size on a standard grinding wheel). I also use a dental pick to create some scratches in the surface of the kit components that will be in contact with the tube. The components are plated and very smooth, so I introduce a ruff scratch pattern on the mating surface. Is one drop sufficient? I use a few very, very small 'dabs' on a given joint. Do you spin the cap to spread it around like you do when you are gluing the tubes? That is what the toothpick provides for. On snug joints it is not possible to spin 'em. What do you se to clean any that inadvertently gets where it shouldn't be? Just a cloth or paper towel...no solvent.

So many questions...

I hope these inputs, which are the results of my own experience, will be helpful. I do get feedback from longtime customers, as my sales venue is a Kauai resort, and some folks come back every year. I have had zero "call-backs" on the issue of 'loose clip rotating' since I started doing what I just described here.
 

darrin1200

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I know that traditionally in pens, shellac was used as an adhesive. Has anyone tried this with kit components. From what I understand, it only requires a little heat, not open flame, to loosen and remove.
 

79spitfire

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Be careful with Loctite, it reacts with a lot of plastics. Blue is intended for use with threaded applications, Red is permanent, I've seen cases where connecting rod bolts in engines were put together with red and had to be cut to remove them. The perfect Loctite, if you can find it is Green, one of it's intended applications is press together assys.
 
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Great Information!

I was just reading about using the Locktite Red & Blue on various parts that can become loose. It is good to know that Locktite does not damage the plating. I will pass that information on.....many thanks.


Renee
 

jamesbil

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I used ca to glue a finial and clip recently and found it reacted with the gold plating. This happened when I put the cap on the pen. The gold nob went kinda smokey.
 

Carl Fisher

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correct, do not use CA for this. It gasses over a day or two as it fully cures and will deposit a white film on everything if it's sealed.
 

Tom T

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I learn so much hanging around the IAP. Thank you all very much. I have a loose part from time to time. Now I know what to do.
 

Smitty37

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Well it seems like the answer is either yes or no depending on who you ask. I have glued a few where the press fit didn't seem tight enough, but then I don't sell a lot of pens and would probably glue more if I did.I have also had pens where if you tried to glue them you would have all of the glue pushed out of the tube when you inserted the part. I would not use CA for this, not necessarily because of the fumes but because that is often a shear bond and CA does not have especially good shear strength - the same reason I would not glue tubes into blanks with CA.
 

Old Codger

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This why IAP is so great...never thought of using Loctite vice CA or epoxy...duh! Should have realized that Loctite would work better but didn't! THANKS so much everyone! I'll use it instead when necessary! I learn or see something different every time I log in and appreciate everyone's postings and comments! Safe turning to you all!
 

chriselle

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I like Epoxy. Triton clips will spin sooner or later so I put a wee tiny dab of epoxy on the cap finial and spin the clip so that there is just a film on the clip shoulder that meets the finial shoulder. Just a tiny bit though so you can't see any epoxy squeezing out.

Depends on the parts now though as I know which ones will be snug enough or not. I like the open time with epoxy as well....better for batch work.
 

siric

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I use Loctite Blue as well for my pen clips. I have had some questions though from customers about the fact that the band on Designer NTs and Concavas spins and may come off during a refill change and get misplaced.

Do you think Loctite (between the band and the bottom barrel) would work and hold that as well or would a drop of CA do the trick?

Thanks
 
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