Glue choices

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Cincinnati

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Oct 19, 2010
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17
Location
Gulf Coast
Has anyone tried the Fastcap 2P-10 CA glue? Is there enough working time to get the tube in the blank?

What procedure do you follow in installing tubes in your blanks? I generally put a few drops of glue in the blank and roll it to get an even coat of adhesive inside the blank. Sometimes I use a toothpick in the back side of the blank to spread the glue inside the blank. Then I put a small bead of glue near the end of the tube and turn it as I insert it into the blank. Before the glue starts to set, I use a clean toothpick to remove excess glue from the inside of the tube, especially at the lead insertion edge.
 
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Cincinnati

Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2010
Messages
17
Location
Gulf Coast
Any particular brand of 2 part epoxy? Any reason you choose that over CA glue?

I find it intersecting that the first 2 people to respond use epoxy. I have always been told epoxy was needed for gap filling (ie when the blanks were drilled imprecisely). I suddenly get the impression the advise I have been given is not from a person with much penmaking experience.

The Fastcap 2P-10 is a two part formula, but I believe it is still CA glue. Do you use 5 minute epoxy for the longer working time?

What is base plate wax and where do I get it?
 

ctubbs

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Sep 12, 2010
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3,588
Location
Murray, Kentucky
Gregory, all my glue comes from Monty at
http://woodenwonderstx.com/WWBlue/index.html. He has great service, best glue around and best prices. He also has a special right now on free blanks with purchase. Anything you can plug the end going into the blank will work as long as you can get it back out easily, was, play dough, potato, your guess. His CA is the finish of choice for most turners on IAP it appears. If you buy his CA, he also offers on down the page small empty bottles and tips to pour up the large bottles into. That way you can buy the larger cheaper bottles of CA and repackage it and store it in the fridge. No, these are not my ideas, just what I've picked up here. Hope this helps. I am available for PMs
Charles
 

OOPS

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Feb 6, 2010
Messages
674
Location
Spokane, WA
Hello Cincy: I have learned from experience that CA is not the way to go with gluing in your tubes. First, let me say that my experience is only with wood, not any of the other substances used to make pens.

Oily woods can cause CA glue to harden (accelerate) much more quickly, and my friends have actually had tubes freeze up before they were completely inserted into the wood blank. Yes, in just 3-4 seconds! In these cases, the tube is lost and normally the blank must be redrilled if you want to use it for something else. Worst case: blank ruined too.

Also, I have observed my friends who use CA and they have more problems with keeping the tubes in the blanks during trimming and turning. Their success rate is probably over 80%, but that's still awfully frustrating, especially when using the proper glue can give you near perfection.

Glues have been discussed all over this site. Many use 5 min. epoxy. With wood, its very successful, as long as the glue is fresh and mixed properly. I personally use Sumo, because it gives me enough time to get things done without rushing, and I don't have to worry about mixing glues, correct ratios, fumes, etc.

Both 5 min. epoxy and Sumo will work well. Use what you're most comfortable with. But I would avoid CA for tube gluing. I have used CA for finishes without difficulty.

I hope this helps.
 

IPD_Mrs

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Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
2,048
Location
Zionsville, Indiana
We use EZ-Bond CA for tube glues all the time with virtually no problems. You do need to be quick on some blanks if not using the Thick formula as the thin formula will set fast (as stated above) but we haven't had any freeze and not go into the blank if the blank accepted the tube easily before glue being put on using this method:
We use wax to plug the tube, roll it in THICK CA and coat the inside of blank with CA via a chopstick then insert the tube. All done quick and smoothly. Thick CA is used as it sets slower and has a filling property. After it's in place we also hit it with some Zip Kicker too.

On occasion we do use gorilla glue when we have a tube that we feel has too much "play" in the blank or the wood is such that it is "really" needed.
 
Last edited:

its_virgil

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Jan 1, 2004
Messages
8,126
Location
Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
I get Loctite locally when I need some quickly. Manny (link provided in another post) has excellent epoxy and CA. I use epoxy for several reasons. One is the longer working time. If you settle on using CA I would suggest using thick.

If you will use calipers to measure tubes and then choose the drill bit based upon the measurements then a better fit of tube in drilled hole is possible. I never just use the bit recommended in the instructions. The info is often erroneous and other times a better choice is possible.

Polyurethane glue can push out the tubes as it cures and foams. If polyurethane glue is used some method of securing the tube should be used.

Base plate wax is actually dental base plate wax. It is a sheet of pink wax used by dentist and dental labs. I purchase it by the box from the local dental lab. Arizona Silhouette also sells it by the sheet.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Any particular brand of 2 part epoxy? Any reason you choose that over CA glue?

I find it intersecting that the first 2 people to respond use epoxy. I have always been told epoxy was needed for gap filling (ie when the blanks were drilled imprecisely). I suddenly get the impression the advise I have been given is not from a person with much penmaking experience.

The Fastcap 2P-10 is a two part formula, but I believe it is still CA glue. Do you use 5 minute epoxy for the longer working time?

What is base plate wax and where do I get it?
 

JimB

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Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
4,682
Location
West Henrietta, NY, USA.
I have only ever used thick CA. The only times I had a problem was when I first started making pens and either didn't coat the tube properly or didn't inset it quick enough. A little experience and those problems went away. I just put a line of CA on paper and then roll the tube in it to cover it. Insert into blank with a twisting motion. I've never done it any other way.
 

PenMan1

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Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
6,380
Location
Eatonton, Georgia
I agree with Don, that EZ 5 minute epoxy sure eliminates a lot of problems. It is workable almost as fast as CA, too. I do a good bit of segmenting with brass, copper and aluminum. The epoxy just seems to stand the heat a little better than CA. I am not a fan of the Gorilla and other poly glues. As Butch said, they are not terrific as gap fillers.
 
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