Getting started supplies

[Big]

I'm sorry for being such a novice but I am just getting into the craft and need some help or suggestions please. I bought a Turncrafter Commander 10 in. lathe which will be here tomorrow. I am in the process of getting my tools and supplies lined up so that I can start ordering kits and blanks. I have a very tight budget right now so I am having to lean towards the lower end of the price realm. I am going to need chisels and had someone suggest harbor freight set but explained that they won't stay sharp for long. I am also going to need to order CA but don't know which one I should start off with. I can always add to the collection as time goes by but am getting the bare necessities for right now. I am going to get a Skil 9 in. 2.5 amp band saw and a 3.2 amp 5 speed drill press. I am trying to think of the absolute necessities to get started before I order a kit or blank. So, micro mesh sanding pads, CA glue, and what else? I very much appreciate suggestions, comments, and help. Thank you so much for everything.

 

[OLDMAN5050]

check your pm's

 

[kovalcik]

First, there are many answers to your question, so take don't get overwhelmed. You can always buy something now and change it out later. I would recommend finding someone close by to give you a quick lesson and then you can buy whatever they use to teach you since you will be familiar with it.

WIth that said, here are my recommendations. For the budget minded, I would go with PSI Ben's Best 3/4" roughing gouge and a 1" skew. Those are all you need to turn pens. You can probably get by with just the roughing gouge to start with since the skew will have a little bit of a learning curve. Alternatively, you can get a carbide tool. Then you do not have to worry about sharpening. PSI and eddiecastelin.com both have reasonably priced rigs. I prefer the regular chisels to the carbide, but many others would say the opposite.

I buy EZ bond CA in the larger bottles from exotic blanks. I use mostly medium for my finishes. If I use CA for gluing tubes in I use thick (I also use 5 minute epoxy). I use thin for stabilizing blanks. I used to use Titebond, but the EZ Bond was so much cheaper.

You will also need a supply of sandpaper besides the Micromesh. PSi and Woodcraft both sell a dispenser box that has grits form 150 to 600 that is handy.

Hope this helps. There are also several other threads that discuss this in depth. Do a search and you will get several hours worth of reading.

 

[gimpy]

Good Day BIG,

I wold be more than happy to send you
a small flat rate box of blanks, that would be around
20 pcs, 3/4 x 5".......no cost to you.......

Just pm me your shipping address and I'll have
them in the mail this week

 

[gimpy]

I agree, however, I would suggest to check out Klingspor for your sandpaper, much larger rolls, at probably half the cost....just my 2 cents worth

First, there are many answers to your question, so take don't get overwhelmed. You can always buy something now and change it out later. I would recommend finding someone close by to give you a quick lesson and then you can buy whatever they use to teach you since you will be familiar with it.

WIth that said, here are my recommendations. For the budget minded, I would go with PSI Ben's Best 3/4" roughing gouge and a 1" skew. Those are all you need to turn pens. You can probably get by with just the roughing gouge to start with since the skew will have a little bit of a learning curve. Alternatively, you can get a carbide tool. Then you do not have to worry about sharpening. PSI and eddiecastelin.com both have reasonably priced rigs. I prefer the regular chisels to the carbide, but many others would say the opposite.

I buy EZ bond CA in the larger bottles from exotic blanks. I use mostly medium for my finishes. If I use CA for gluing tubes in I use thick (I also use 5 minute epoxy). I use thin for stabilizing blanks. I used to use Titebond, but the EZ Bond was so much cheaper.

You will also need a supply of sandpaper besides the Micromesh. PSi and Woodcraft both sell a dispenser box that has grits form 150 to 600 that is handy.

Hope this helps. There are also several other threads that discuss this in depth. Do a search and you will get several hours worth of reading.

 

[plano_harry]

I would go carbide, no sharpening skill required (although in many tribes it is considered a rite of passage) and you don't have the cost of grinder, fixtures, etc. Too many unknowns for a new turner.

Roll sandpaper is fine for wood, but the poor quality, as mentioned by gimpy, will put one or more nasty scratches in your dark acrylic or perfect CA finish. I prefer Mirka Abranet, the open mesh does not clog, it has flawless uniformity, and you can use it over and over. I buy 10 packs on Amazon of 2-3/4x8 sheets and cut them in half.

EZ Bond CA is a bargain in larger volumes and you can keep it fresh in the fridge. There is a great article on CA finishing that was just added to the library

Make sure the drill press has at least 3" of quill travel, or you will have a frustrating time drilling pen blanks.

You have probably seen many references to HF digital calipers (on sale), very helpful in matching your finished diameter to the parts.

Good quality #2MT mandrel or a dead center for turning between centers.

 

[Big]

I want to thank you all so very much for the kindness and help that you are offering. I know how frustrating it can be to deal with novices who know absolutely nothing about what they are doing and barrage you with seemingly stupid questions. So, thank you from the bottom of my heart for being such great folks and taking time to help me. I take your comments, suggestions, and advice to heart. I would rather learn what "not to do" and waste time and money when I can start off a bit ahead of the curve by doing it correctly with the correct tools, supplies, and equipment. I am so happy to be part of this community. You folks are the best.

 

[Jim Burr]

I'm going to respectfully disagree with Harry on one point...learn all of the tools in your arsenal..., gouge, skew, parting, bowl...whatever. You will move on from pens and need to use a more traditional method. Carbides are fun...I use one, but only as far as the traditional tools aren't as easy. Carbides didn't exist several years ago...guess what we used?

 

[plano_harry]

:rotfl: Hey Jim, when you only have a hammer, every problem looks like a nail! I did have to break down and buy a parting tool. Did you know you can play a full round of golf with only a 5 iron??

 

[gimpy]

I would go carbide, no sharpening skill required (although in many tribes it is considered a rite of passage) and you don't have the cost of grinder, fixtures, etc. Too many unknowns for a new turner.

Roll sandpaper is fine for wood, but the poor quality, as mentioned by gimpy, will put one or more nasty scratches in your dark acrylic or perfect CA finish. I prefer Mirka Abranet, the open mesh does not clog, it has flawless uniformity, and you can use it over and over. I buy 10 packs on Amazon of 2-3/4x8 sheets and cut them in half.

EZ Bond CA is a bargain in larger volumes and you can keep it fresh in the fridge. There is a great article on CA finishing that was just added to the library

Make sure the drill press has at least 3" of quill travel, or you will have a frustrating time drilling pen blanks.

You have probably seen many references to HF digital calipers (on sale), very helpful in matching your finished diameter to the parts.

Good quality #2MT mandrel or a dead center for turning between centers.

Thanks Harry,
I've never had an issue with the paper from Klingspore, I buy the 1" wide rolls and purchase grits from 180 thru 600... and I never use this on anything other than wood........I agree about the nasty scratches on other types of material
Thanks for the heads up on the Mirka Abranet, does that come
in different grits? I'll check it out though, thanks again

 

[mark james]

PM your address and I'll send some WTF (Wood turners finish). We need to get you started right!

 

[gimpy]

Come on folks, LET's help out fellow turner

We all where in need of some thing at one
time or another.....

just a few blanks or a kit or two
would really help BIG out......

 

[southernclay]

Hey Big send me your address by PM, I've got some great practice blanks and maybe a few other goodies for you. Good job pulling the trigger on the lathe

 

[knowltoh]

PM your address to me and I will send you a small flat rate box of exotic wood blanks. Glad to help!

 

[Smitty37]

:rotfl: Hey Jim, when you only have a hammer, every problem looks like a nail! I did have to break down and buy a parting tool. Did you know you can play a full round of golf with only a 5 iron??

If you don't care how many strokes you take you can play a full round of golf with a putter.:biggrin:

 

[thrustmonkey]

When you are new at something, there are no silly questions. The best way to learn is to ask. And when you think you have enough information to give it a try without hurting yourself, go out and do it.

Check out some videos on you tube. Do searches for pen making, wood turning, stuff like that. Exotic Blanks has alot of how to videos about pen making. Real easy to follow.

You ever see an old wooden chair that someone has put out for the garbage man to take away? There's alot of pen blanks and turning stock to practice on right there. Put it in the trunk of your car, bring it home, cut it up, and turn away. Makes great practice material. Same goes for limbs that come down in a storm. But....from all the flat rate boxes that are going to be coming at you, you're going to have plenty of wood to turn.

BTW. Capt. Eddie Castelin has a couple of hundred videos that deal with turning. Not so much with pens, but alot to do with tools, sharpening, bowls, finishes, etc.

Good Luck

Ross

 

[Smitty37]

I'm sorry for being such a novice but I am just getting into the craft and need some help or suggestions please. I bought a Turncrafter Commander 10 in. lathe which will be here tomorrow. I am in the process of getting my tools and supplies lined up so that I can start ordering kits and blanks. I have a very tight budget right now so I am having to lean towards the lower end of the price realm. I am going to need chisels and had someone suggest harbor freight set but explained that they won't stay sharp for long. I am also going to need to order CA but don't know which one I should start off with. I can always add to the collection as time goes by but am getting the bare necessities for right now. I am going to get a Skil 9 in. 2.5 amp band saw and a 3.2 amp 5 speed drill press. I am trying to think of the absolute necessities to get started before I order a kit or blank. So, micro mesh sanding pads, CA glue, and what else? I very much appreciate suggestions, comments, and help. Thank you so much for everything.

You open a can of worms with this question....you will probably get so many different answers it will leave you shaking your head and wondering.

For the beginner to minimize outlay...low cost lathe, harbor freight usually has one that will work fine. Get an M(orse)T(taper) 2 I made the mistake of getting an MT1 and that made a number of assessories semi useless when I upgraded. Carbide tools to minimize sharpening, you'll eventually have to sharpen but carbide tools can put it off for quite a while. Any decent glue that works on dissimilar tools can be used for gluing tubes. CA has a couple of atributes that make me avoid it as much as possible. The gouge is probably the easiest cutting tool to learn and for a lot of woods is the only tool needed the 1/2 or 3/4 fingernail gouges will work fine for a beginner. Sanding can be used to get the last little bit of cutting as well as smoothing, about any good sand paper in the proper grits will work. If you want to go smoother than 600 grit, micro-mesh will work fine as will some other approaches. Some type of finishing is needed but it does not have to be CA which I personally won't touch with a stick. There are a lot that are tried, tested and proven, even if they are not in vogue today. I like Mylands and an 8 ounce bottle goes a long way.

 

[plano_harry]

To Gimpy's question, Abranet comes in many grits, including an assortment pack. I only bought 400 and 600. If I can't sand it with 400, I am not through turning . I quit using the 600 when I discovered that the MM 1500 appears to be a step backward from 600. After a dozen pens or so 400 dry, I move the worn 400 to wet duty and get a new piece of dry. Talk about cheap!!

 

[Big]

Response

I want each and every one of you to know how much I appreciate your kindness. It is truly overwhelming to have so many of you be so willing to help a complete novice like me out. You are such a great group of folks and I feel fortunate to be here in the community with you. Thank you so much for taking time to share your wisdom and advice, or your offers to help me get started with supplies, or whatever. Thank you so very much. You are just wonderful and I appreciate you.

Big

 

[scjohnson243]

Big, I just started this myself, and I understand how overwhelming it can be, I had no history in woodworking so when people would offer me advice I still have to go to google and try to figure out what they are talking about.

My first investment after my lathe was a "Starter Kit" from PSI, it was 200'ish bucks, but it had EVERYTHING in it you need to start turning pens... I would recommend that! I know it has been a great help to me. It may not be the best stuff out there, but gives you a starting point and you can upgrade as needed.

 

[Sandsini]

Big,
I'm a noob as well, and I know you have been on the site a while and probably learned a bunch already. Make sure you watch all the beginning videos in the Library if you haven't already, but my best piece of advice is just do it.

Everyone here has great advice on what tools and materials you should use, so just get something, anything, and start turning and making pens. You might want to stick with a single style to begin with (please though... not a slimline, anything but a slimline) and buy some extra tubes, because you are going to screw up some as you figure this all out. I just completed pen number 19 and only about half of those pens are what I would consider good, but every pen I've made has taught me something that I need for the next one.

As you turn and finish, you will figure it out.

Friction finishes are very easy and look good. CA isn't really that hard (watch the videos) and is impressably professional looking when done right. Some wood looks wonderful unfinished, and MicroMesh is awesome for acrylics and CA finishes.

The skew isn't that hard to use but a gouge is easier to start with. If you are a perfectionist like me, you want the better control you get with a skew so try it out.

Anyway, good luck. I have never really worked in wood (or acrylics, geez I love them both) before and am now obsessed with the process. I hope you find this kind of passion as well. It makes all this trial and error and learning not only worth the effort but a wonderful life affirming process.

Cheers,

 

[Sandsini]

One more thing...

I've said this before, and I guess I am going to say it again, but the people on this board and some of the most generous and wonderful people ever. The offers of materials, time and advice warm my heart and are the kind of thing that will keep me coming back for a very long time.

Cheers,

 

[Big]

You are absolutely correct about the wonderful people here, I could not imagine finding better.

 

[WriteON]

Just my .02...skip the CA for while. One Step on acrylic is perfect. EEE & MyLands are perfect for wood. CA is not a piece of cake. Aside from the nasty odor/fumes is it a mess to work with. Wait a while. Concentrate on turning and sanding for now. Most importantly be safe. Use a dust collector & face shield. Keep the toolbar close to your blank. Have fun.

 

[Cwalker935]

If you have not purchased the drill press, you might consider going with a pen chuck and drill chuck. I used to drill my blanks with a press but now do my drilling on the lathe. You might save a little money and you can use the pen chuck for other things like custom finials as well.

I agree with skipping the CA finish when first starting out. I prefer pens plus to mylands.

 

[Smitty37]

If you have not purchased the drill press, you might consider going with a pen chuck and drill chuck. I used to drill my blanks with a press but now do my drilling on the lathe. You might save a little money and you can use the pen chuck for other things like custom finials as well.

I agree with skipping the CA finish when first starting out. I prefer pens plus to mylands.

I use a drill press for a lot of things....the lathe is more like a boring machine and has very limited use. If the only woodworking he will ever do is making pens the lathe is great, but a drill press has many uses and is a 'must have' for most woodworkers.

 

[Big]

What are your thoughts on table saw versus band saw? Would I be able to square my blanks better with a table saw?

 

[Cwalker935]

[/QUOTE]I use a drill press for a lot of things....the lathe is more like a boring machine and has very limited use. If the only woodworking he will ever do is making pens the lathe is great, but a drill press has many uses and is a 'must have' for most woodworkers.[/QUOTE]

As the not so proud owner of a low budget drill press, my biggest sources of penmaking frustration has been in drilling blanks. Oblong holes, poor fitting tubes, etc. For someone starting on a budget, I think that the tendency would be to go low budget (been there done that). Getting a pen chuck and a drill chuck has really improved my pen making and given me some additional capabilities. So my advice to someone starting out is to go with a pen chuck and drill chuck and save up your money for a quality drill press later if you cannot afford one right away. No offense intended to Smitty.

 

[plano_harry]

What are your thoughts on table saw versus band saw? Would I be able to square my blanks better with a table saw?

No, squaring your blanks is for the pen mill, not your saw. You are squaring to the tube/hole, not the side of the blank.

Bandsaw is less likely to bite you and works great for cutting blanks to length, curves, thin kerf cuts, etc. Table saw is great for perfectly straight cuts, square, angled, or thin strips. Needs a fixture to improve safety in handling small pieces. Both of these tools are very helpful in a wood shop, neither are needed for starting pen turning. You can cut your blanks to length with a hand saw - the band saw is quicker and usually a smoother cut.

 

[Big]

Thank Harry, I have so much to learn and so much to consider. I can always add tools and supplies as I am able to do so.

 

[mbroberg]

I suggest you take a look at:

http://content.penturners.org/library/general_reference/Getting_started_in_pen_turning.pdf

And

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/if-i-had-known-earlier-46654/

 

[Smitty37]

What are your thoughts on table saw versus band saw? Would I be able to square my blanks better with a table saw?

Personally I would opt for a Mitre Saw
I use mine for cutting blanks and there is a neat little jig available that attaches in seconds and lets you use the tube to determine the length of the blank....No saw is going to do too much for you squaring the blanks. Cutting a square blank from raw wood it will depend on a number of factors. To start though I would assume that you'll be buying or trading for blanks.

 

[Big]

Thank you for the comments and the help. I appreciate you so much.

 

[Cmiles1985]

The drill press you mentioned will only frustrate you in pen making. It's a great DP for the money, but not for making pens! Your $130 would be better spent on a pen blank chuck and drill chuck. Now, no need to buy a vise for the DP also. I DO use my DP for other projects, and it works very well for those. To drill each half blank or blank you make, you will have to stop so far in and adjust the table elevation. Then you end up with a hole that is OOR and inevitably a blown up blank. IMHO, boring the hole with the lathe yields a much quicker and truer result for the novice turner (and I may get blasted for saying that!!)

Definitely use either a pen mill or disc sander to square your blanks, not a saw. As Harry said, a hand miter saw will do the job just fine (until you want to dabble in segmenting). At that point, it's up to your preference. I have a table saw, but I don't use it for pen making after taking a chunk of olive wood to the throat. I'm now a little trigger shy when it comes to small work on a big saw, so I bought a band saw. Great for pen making (IMHO). If you have someone nearby that you can bum some time from, that is your best bet. You can see what you like for yourself before buying it. This is just my $0.02, and you can use it as you please. Have fun!

 

[nativewooder]

To my simple mind, I must disagree with some of the guys as far as cutting pen blanks. My mentor cut all his pen blanks on his table saw. Of course he was a custom home builder and still has all his fingers. The tube ends of a blank would be called "facing" the blank and is much more critical. The end of the blank showing the tube must be square to the length of the blank or you will always have problems. DAMHIKT! And as Mike Broberg suggested, please use the library as it is full things you can learn without gluing your fingers together or cutting them off!:biggrin:

If you're ever down in Fort Pierce, contact me and I'll see what I can find that I don't need any more. In the meantime, enjoy a lifetime of learning!

 

[Smitty37]

To my simple mind, I must disagree with some of the guys as far as cutting pen blanks. My mentor cut all his pen blanks on his table saw. Of course he was a custom home builder and still has all his fingers. The tube ends of a blank would be called "facing" the blank and is much more critical. The end of the blank showing the tube must be square to the length of the blank or you will always have problems. DAMHIKT! And as Mike Broberg suggested, please use the library as it is full things you can learn without gluing your fingers together or cutting them off!:biggrin:

If you're ever down in Fort Pierce, contact me and I'll see what I can find that I don't need any more. In the meantime, enjoy a lifetime of learning!

I own a decent Table Saw and wouldnt cut a pen blank on it to win a bet. I don't even like to cross cut dimension lumber on it (I always use a Mitre Saw for that). That isn't to say it can't be done, just that unless someone is a lot better than I am I would not advise them to use one for cutting them.

 

[Big]

Thank you all so much for the wisdom and insight. I appreciate each of you taking time to share with me and have given me a great deal to consider. I will and have been spending time in the library but still have a great deal to learn. You are all just awesome for helping me out and I truly appreciate you all very much. Thank you so much for everything, you folks are absolutely wonderful.

 

[Quality Pen]

I'm sorry for being such a novice but I am just getting into the craft and need some help or suggestions please. I bought a Turncrafter Commander 10 in. lathe which will be here tomorrow. I am in the process of getting my tools and supplies lined up so that I can start ordering kits and blanks. I have a very tight budget right now so I am having to lean towards the lower end of the price realm. I am going to need chisels and had someone suggest harbor freight set but explained that they won't stay sharp for long. I am also going to need to order CA but don't know which one I should start off with. I can always add to the collection as time goes by but am getting the bare necessities for right now. I am going to get a Skil 9 in. 2.5 amp band saw and a 3.2 amp 5 speed drill press. I am trying to think of the absolute necessities to get started before I order a kit or blank. So, micro mesh sanding pads, CA glue, and what else? I very much appreciate suggestions, comments, and help. Thank you so much for everything.

I was told, right off the bat, to drill on the lathe. Great decision. I recommend it. Then you just need to buy a chuck and a collet but these don't have to cost that much. But there are other benefits to drilling on the lathe.

Harbor frieght chisels are probably fine to learn on. You can get a cheap sharpening stone while you're there and this would cost maybe 30 bucks but you'll be able to try all the different chisels. Personally, I wouldn't say its bad because once you want a new tool you can get one of the insert-type carbide tools. Lots of people like those.

But even if you don't get high end chisels there is a whole group of turners who say you're better off buying lesser tools and learning how to keep them sharp, rather than buying greater tools and using them dull.

There are a lot of rabbit holes to fall down... weigh your options but just remember that there's a hundred ways to do the same thing -- make a nice pen.

Oh, if there's one thing I would get right off the bat that will dramatically make your finished product better then it is a buffing wheel. It's definitely not needed when you first start out, but as soon as you do it you'll realize it is a "must have" for any serious pen maker.

 

[Edgar]

Here's what I do - I may be the only one who does it this way, but it works for me: I drill my blanks on a drill press, starting with a full blank standing vertically in a pen drilling vice. If it's a 2-blank pen, I drill deep enough for one tube first (smallest diameter first if the tubes are different size). Then I use my table-top bandsaw to cut that part off, put the blank back in the pen vice (being sure to mount it in the same orientation as before), adjust the height of the table, & drill the hole for the second tube, then another cut on the bandsaw.

I have a fairly good quality floor mounted drill press with a properly squared table, so I have no problem getting nice fitting, straight holes through both blanks. I would not recommend this approach with a cheap table-top drill press. IMHO they have their place in wood working, but not for drilling pen blanks.

I have a table saw but I wouldn't even think of trying to use it for cutting pen blanks. I started out using a handsaw in a miter box - worked well, but I prefer automation. I bought one of the tube guides that Smitty mentioned for cutting accurate length blanks on a miter saw. It works great but I find the miter saw to be a bit aggressive for pen blanks and even though I was careful to go slow, the saw still messed up several blanks for me. Perhaps a finer toothed blade or better clamping would help, but going to the bandsaw has solved the problem for me, plus I find it easier & quicker to set up and seems a lot safer - I just don't like using big saws on small pieces of wood.

To size my cuts on the bandsaw, I just lay a tube on the table up against the blade & position the blank so it extends past the tube about 1/8" or so, move the tube out of the way, hold the blank tight up against the miter gauge with a hand-held clamp & fingers well out of the way, then feed slowly. It makes a nice, fine cut with minimal kerf. It doesn't really matter if it's not a perfectly square cut since the ends need to be squared with a pen mill anyway.

I had all these tools before I started pen making, so for me it was a matter of finding a technique that worked well given the tools that I had on hand. For someone just starting out who might only have a lathe though, my recommendation would be to buy the necessary chucks for drilling on a lathe & either cut blanks with a miter box & hand saw or a small bandsaw. Other tools like a table saw, miter saw, drill press, etc can wait until you better understand your needs for them so you can select the best machines for your purposes.

 

[Quality Pen]

Oh yea... another "must have" for a new turner (especially) would be the harbor freight punch set and soft grip pliers.

You'll want these very soon