Getting black abrasive on pen blank

[joek30296]

I'm brand new at pen turning and have only turned 5 or 6 to date. I've noticed on a couple of tiger maple blanks, black residue from the 400 grit and 600 grit paper. I've tried to remove it with DNA but it still shows up when I finish. What am I doing wrong? BTW, I thought it might be coming from the bushings, so I replaced them before sanding with nylon ones that I turned to fit the mandrel.

Boy, have I got a big learning curve to overcome.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may have.

Joe

 

[D.Oliver]

One way to solve your problem is to not sand and just use a skew. However you need to be very good with a skew.

 

[PenMan1]

It sounds like you are sanding over the bushings. The black particles that you see is likely dust from the bushings.

I recommend that you purchase a set of Delrin eliminator cone bushings from JohnnyCNC (penturnersproducts.com) and then use these bushings exclusively for sanding and finishing your pens.

It sure worked for me.

 

[Monty]

Since you indicate that you replaced the bushings with nylon ones and still get the "black" particles, What kind of sand paper are you using? Is it black?
Switch to abranet. Check with Neil, Wolftat - http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77961&highlight=abranet

 

[PenMan1]

Are you using "wet" sandpaper without water? This could also account for "black spots" getting embedded in wood grain?

What color are your nylon bushings? Are they "full fit"? Conical?

 

[Drstrangefart]

I had the same problem until I got my practice on it and it got better. Even with bare steel bushings you can get that residue if you get too aggressive.

 

[joek30296]

Guys,
Thanks for all the suggestions. I did replace the 7mm steel bushings with white nylon, full fit, that I turned down to below blank diameter. I'm also using 320, 400, 600, & 1200 wet or dry silicon carbide paper (all black) but I'm using it dry. Never heard of Abranet, so may have to check it out.
Thanks again,

Joe

 

[xxShadowxx]

i had the same thing happen with silicon carbide paper, only thing i could find for 1000 grit, but didnt like the black so quit using it, i think thats more for metalworking not wood with pores :frown:

150/240/320/400 aluminum oxide is all i use now (aside from micromesh for finish) and rarely have an issue, the times i do it leaves a red (sandpaper is red) mark/band, but its only if i get sloppy and run the edge of the sandpaper on my wood, sticking to the face no issue :biggrin:

atleast in my case, bushing have nothing to do with it

 

[Tim'sTurnings]

I had the same problem with leaving black marks on blanks with black fine grit sandpaper. I started using paper I got from CSUSA and I haven't had any problems since and it works great. The paper goes up to 600 grit and is light gray, doesn't leave any residue that I can see.

Here is a link to the Finkat sandpaper.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/s...brasives___Finkat_Sanding_Paper___finkat?Args=

(I have no affiliation with CSUSA. Just a satisfied customer)
Tim.

 

[Justturnin]

I had that issue w/ the cheap HF paper. Turns out it was for metal not wood and was staining. Switched to the Brown and no issues since.

 

[PenMan1]

Joe:
It sounds like you are using "automotive wet sandpaper". While this works ok for acrylics, PR, etc. It is not a "first choice" for wood grains.

Abranet or Abralon is a better choice and much easier on your wallet, as it is reusable.

You choice of sandpaper may well be causing your problems.

 

[joek30296]

Thanks again for all your suggestions. Looks like my choice of sandpaper is the main problem. I'll be changing that soon.
Thanks again.

Joe

 

[sbwertz]

For 7mm pens, just use short pieces of brass tube in place of the bushings for sanding and finishing.

 

[SGM Retired]

Sharon, don't understand the brass tube use, could you explain? Thanks
Gary