General advice on turning Antler

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I have a friend that found a mule deer shed last year and asked if I could turn some of it for him (a pen & shaving brush handle). I've never turned antler and would like some advice before I commit to anything. I'm guessing it stinks but does it chip or split? How hard is the material? Carbide or HSS? All advice is welcome and much appreciated.
 
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mg_dreyer

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First and foremost - yes, it smells very bad. Also wear a respirator for dust. Other than that is it easy to turn. I use HSS for the whole thing, but carbide also works for refining the cuts at the end. I "seal" or finish mine with CA. I also try to drill it in such a manner to leave a of the outside or the antler visible - much more interesting. I drill in the lathe with a Penn State Locking Soft-Grip Pliers for Pen Dissembly to hold the antler.
 

D.Oliver

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I've turned a fair amount of antler. I can't say I like to turn it but items made from it are popular in my area. Definitely use a mask. As far as smell, it varies between the different antlers. None of them smell good, but the odor is definitely stronger on some and less on others. Generally the middle of the antler is more porous and outside is more dense. Because of this I try to use relatively straight pieces. Some people just polish the antler when they are done turning. I find that the porous areas don't shine up as well as the outside parts of antler. To get a consistent shine across the entire work piece I usually apply a CA finish.
 

Jim Smith

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I've used both HSS and carbide successful. The main thing is to have SHARP tools and use some sort of respirator if at all possible.

Jim Smith
 
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Thanks for some fast replies! I'll definitely wear my respirator and use my lathe right for extraction. Extra thanks for advice on using CA, I didn't know if I should just polish or do a CA finish.

?...I also try to drill it in such a manner to leave a of the outside or the antler visible - much more interesting...

I planned on showing some of the "bark" if possible. I saw a shaving brush a member at B&B made and he wasn't sure if he should have included some of the bark. All the comments said it looked great and was the way to go.
 

KenV

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Jay,

Shed antler comes in two flavors. Fresh and weathered. Fresh is not a problem other than assuring it has dried!
.
Weathered can be a challenge. I evolved to cutting it into pieces and running it through Cactus Juice to reinforce the weathering induced cracks and softening. Turns much better with fewer failures.

You can also use dye in the cactus juice for some dramatic effects on the more weathered pieces.
 
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Jay,

Shed antler comes in two flavors. Fresh and weathered. Fresh is not a problem other than assuring it has dried!
.
Weathered can be a challenge. I evolved to cutting it into pieces and running it through Cactus Juice to reinforce the weathering induced cracks and softening. Turns much better with fewer failures.

You can also use dye in the cactus juice for some dramatic effects on the more weathered pieces.

Thank you! I'll stabilize it first just to avoid any problems.
 

Skie_M

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Antler sheds don't usually have the "bloodshot" issues common to deer that have died out of hunting season (not necessarily due to poaching ... natural causes and vehicular collisions are possible scenarios).


If you come across one that still has blood in it (the core of the antler is marrow, as it is a bone growth rather than horn, which is a type of modified hair, like hooves are a modified type of fingernail), I would suggest COOKING IT THOROUGHLY to kill off any and all bacteria that may be present in the blood before you attempt to cut it and turn it any further.

They (all types of bone) turn reasonably well with HSS tools, but I prefer carbide, as bone can take the edge off your tools kinda faster than wood. I have found that it is easiest to drill it by hand holding (pliers with leather wrap) on the drill press and then mounting it on a plain mandrel shaft between bushings and taking it to your sander .... hold it at an oblique angle and it will spin the antler section as it wears it away, giving you an easily pre-rounded piece with little fuss (lots of mess but very low chance for any kind of catch or breakage).

If you prefer drilling on the lathe, a similar method can be used there ... hold by hand with leather wrapped pliers, put the back end on the tailstock center and drive it onto a spinning drill bit to the halfway point .... back it out and drill from other side to meet in center. Make sure to push the bit ALL THE WAY THROUGH to ensure you have a straight hole for your brass tube, and glue with epoxy or gorilla glue to fill any internal gaps and seal the interior. You'll still find it much easier to pre-round on a mandrel shaft with a belt sander or disc sander.

Once it's pre-rounded it's a lot easier to keep it in one piece, as the rounded shape wont catch nearly as easily as a rough exterior ... don't forget to seal it in CA whether you choose to use a CA finish or not, helps keep the moisture content in the bone consistent to prevent swelling/shrinkage, which will cause cracks over time.
 

TonyL

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As others have said..wear a mask, DC on, etc. and, if married, remember to say, "What smell?" :)
 

farmer

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Antler

I stabilize my antler with wood hardener ,
When I have it turned to the right size I take it to the buffing wheel .
.

Don't use bleach .
African deer antler is cleaner or more pearl whitish then Deer here in the USA .
 
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As others have said..wear a mask, DC on, etc. and, if married, remember to say, "What smell?" :)
:biggrin:

I'm not married so I don't have a boss to answer to. Even so, I'm not sure I'll be turning it now. From what he said the antler doesn't sound like it's in real good shape so he's thinking of carving some pieces. It would be a good learning experience though.
 

Gregf

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It is a very attractive material, though somewhat unpredictable.
Especially nice with the bolt action pens.
pen.jpg
 

Skie_M

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As others have said..wear a mask, DC on, etc. and, if married, remember to say, "What smell?" :)
:biggrin:

I'm not married so I don't have a boss to answer to. Even so, I'm not sure I'll be turning it now. From what he said the antler doesn't sound like it's in real good shape so he's thinking of carving some pieces. It would be a good learning experience though.

Ask him for some off-cuts and pieces to try your hand on ....

Even if all you do is use them for ring segments (or even rings) or turning a small button or finial, getting used to working with bone is just a first step... and relatively cheap, if you're getting the antler for free!

As for the antler starting to disintegrate ... well, that's what stabilization is for. Soak it in wood hardener and let it dry completely, and if it's still seeming to be a bit weak, give it a good soak in some thin CA.
 

okmatt

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Near Claremore Ok.
Antler sheds don't usually have the "bloodshot" issues common to deer that have died out of hunting season (not necessarily due to poaching ... natural causes and vehicular collisions are possible scenarios).


If you come across one that still has blood in it (the core of the antler is marrow, as it is a bone growth rather than horn, which is a type of modified hair, like hooves are a modified type of fingernail), I would suggest COOKING IT THOROUGHLY to kill off any and all bacteria that may be present in the blood before you attempt to cut it and turn it any further.

They (all types of bone) turn reasonably well with HSS tools, but I prefer carbide, as bone can take the edge off your tools kinda faster than wood. I have found that it is easiest to drill it by hand holding (pliers with leather wrap) on the drill press and then mounting it on a plain mandrel shaft between bushings and taking it to your sander .... hold it at an oblique angle and it will spin the antler section as it wears it away, giving you an easily pre-rounded piece with little fuss (lots of mess but very low chance for any kind of catch or breakage).

If you prefer drilling on the lathe, a similar method can be used there ... hold by hand with leather wrapped pliers, put the back end on the tailstock center and drive it onto a spinning drill bit to the halfway point .... back it out and drill from other side to meet in center. Make sure to push the bit ALL THE WAY THROUGH to ensure you have a straight hole for your brass tube, and glue with epoxy or gorilla glue to fill any internal gaps and seal the interior. You'll still find it much easier to pre-round on a mandrel shaft with a belt sander or disc sander.

Once it's pre-rounded it's a lot easier to keep it in one piece, as the rounded shape wont catch nearly as easily as a rough exterior ... don't forget to seal it in CA whether you choose to use a CA finish or not, helps keep the moisture content in the bone consistent to prevent swelling/shrinkage, which will cause cracks over time.
I'm trying to envision how you sand these. what kind of sander are you using on these?
 
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