Friction Polish

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
K

klpeters

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2017
Messages
5
Location
Souris P.E.I. Canada
I was wondering did anyone try making friction polish , I made some , but in Canada we cannot get Denatured Alcohol , so I used 100 ml. Ethel Alcohol (70%) 100 ml. Shellac and 100 ml boiled Linseed oil, but after a day it separated by about 1/3 , alcohol went to top . the real Shellawax does not, maybe 1/8 inch after a few days,so I tried Methel Hydrate 99% and it separated by 1/3 , did anyone try Denatured Alcohol and does it separate by this much , when you shake it up it looks good but it is a little thin , not as good as the real stuff.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Magicbob

Magicbob

Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2012
Messages
1,566
Location
Akron, OH
Yes, I have made it using denatured alki and it does seperate, just shake it up before you apply, works great.
I do not use it on pens very often, but I love it on bottle stoppers and bowls
 
monophoto

monophoto

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
2,543
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY
klpeters said:
I was wondering did anyone try making friction polish , I made some , but in Canada we cannot get Denatured Alcohol
Click to expand...

Alcohol is the appropriate solvent if the FP you are making is based on shellac. But you can also make a very good friction polish using lacquer - in which case the solvent component is lacquer thinner. There are commercial lacquer-based friction polishes (PSI has one that does not contain any oil - the MSDS says it is made by WoodWrite who also make Turner's Magic oil-free lacquer-based friction polish). I use a shop-made version that is equal parts of ordinary brushing lacquer, lacquer thinner, and oil.

My experience with lacquer-based friction polishes is that they may take a bit longer to cure. I typically apply three coats, waiting about a minute between coats. It is possible to feel the oil immediately after finishing a pen, but after curing for 24 hours the pen feels totally cured.

The other concern with pen finishes is durability. I have a teak pen on my desk that was finished with lacquer-based FP and that looks as good as the day I made it - four years ago.
 
WriteON

WriteON

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,304
Location
Florida & Pa
Off subject...but... I was a big fan of friction polish. Do it right and it looks like furniture. However if you see your work(pens/stoppers) after being handled the finish fades and the item looks worn. As reluctant as I was to try/use CA I got started with and love it. Friction polish is a lot of $$$ for that small bottle. Yes it looks great and easy to use but it is not meant to be handled. I'd say it perfect for display items...... just my 2 pennies.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Previous Next
Top Bottom