Fresh wood

[Tinker7]

I am planning on cutting down a pecan tree next week. It was planted with the tap root cut off about 40 years ago. The tree is only about 8 or 9 inches in diameter.
I am guessing it will have some very tight rings.
My question is about storing the wood so checking would be minimized.

I am in need of suggestions from folks who have had experience processing freshly cut timber. In the past I just cut the tree and saved the wood for about a year or so and kept what was not checked for woodcarving. I would like to save all of this tree if possible.

Roy

 

[nativewooder]

You need to keep the wood off the ground. The log should be cut to reasonable lengths so you can handle it. The cut ends should be should sealed with AnchorSeal or some professional end grain sealer. Let the first coat dry and apply another coat to the end grain. DO NOT use latex or other paint if you want to preserve this wood. In the best of circumstances, the wood should be under a roof. I wish you success!

 

[Tinker7]

Thanks Barry

Roy

 

[stolicky]

In addition to what Barry said, the best way to minimize checking is to get the pith out of the wood. If you are making bowls, rough out as much as you can while its wet. If you are looking for stock down the road, you are best off cutting probably about 1.5" from the center of the logs. The next best thing would be to leave it in log form as much as possible and follow Barry's advice on sealing. However, if you are hoping for the log to dry, it probably will not dry out that well in log form. Oh, keep it out of the sun.

Just work on it as much as you can while it is wet. Time = cracking.
Good luck.

 

[crabcreekind]

you can also seal the end with candle wax, and a heat gun. that what i did for a birch tree

 

[Tinker7]

you can also seal the end with candle wax, and a heat gun. that what i did for a birch tree

Hmmmmmmmmmm I like that, I got lots of homemade bullet lube which is mostly beeswax.

Thanks
Roy

 

[Padre]

I second what everyone is saying. Get the pith out, seal with anchorseal. Get off the ground.

 

[seamus7227]

I cut some mesquite last year and made pen blanks with it. then dipped both ends in candle wax, just checked them and almost a year later there are still no cracks or checking, or warping. So candle wax worked for me. But they have also been out of the sunlight and in my garage. just my .02 worth

 

[robutacion]

I Roy,

Most of what has been said is good information and I would add just a few extra details that can or not apply to you...!

Depending on what you want to do with the wood later on, its green preparation can differ considerably as these are my processes for green wood;

*- Not sure what the wood would be used for.
Leave the logs as long as possible or you can handle, seal the ends with one of many products, I like to use acrylic exterior paint, any colour...!
keep them off the ground and under cover, breeze is good, sun and rain is not...!

*- Timber will be used for making bowls later on;
Cut the logs 2 to 4" longer than its diameter, split them in half and seal the ends. Storing conditions should be as above is possible.

*- Timber will be used for making bowl, but rough turning green for faster drying time for finishing.
Cut your logs with the same length as its diameter and split them immediately.
Rough turn to about 1" thickness all around, treat/soak with a preservative/stabilizer, boil, freeze, alcohol treatment, etc., and put to dry in a well ventilated place, away from the weather. Finish in about 6 months time, depending on locations (temps, etc.)

*- Timber will be used for pen blanks and other small turnings;
Cut your wood over-sized (a few millimeters over), seal the end-grain with hot wax and stack then in layers over each other with some space in between (5 blanks each way is a good method), put a weight on top of the pile to void excessive movement in the wood or rap the pile into a bundle, which I call the "drying towers". This will the fasted method to dry pen blanks using air.

*- Timber needs to be cut into "usable blanks" of various sizes to reduce storage space and remove the unusable portions of the wood/log (bark, edges, etc...!) but doesn't require to dry in a hurry;
You cut your blanks over-sized and totally waxed them, this will protect the wood from cracking excessively while allowing for a slow dry.

These are the fundamental steps I take for my green woods, not always possible to store it all in a perfectly enclosed and weather proof situation, so the next best thing is to get a wooden pallet, put in under a shady tree if possible, staking the wood with spacers and covering it with a tarpollen. It helps considerably if you put an old roof tin sheathing over the top and tie it down, in bad weather leave it as is but in sunny weather, lift the tarpollen sides to allow the wood the breath a little and to void extra humidity in there that can start the spalting or moss/fungi process...!

Good luck and don't forget, use protective gear when handling a chainsaw...!:wink:

Cheers
George

 

[Wildman]

I would split 8" to 9" diameter logs and end seal with commercial end sealer if you have some. I do not split limbs 3" to 4" round. Anchor seal or any green wood sealer works well for end sealing.

I use latex paint and canning wax to end seal. Lot depends upon how much wood and size of logs dealing with. If dealing with a whole tree might just use latex paint regardless of size. If just dealing a few pieces of wood may just use wax.

I store my wood in a woodshed, which protects from weather and direct sun light do have plenty of air circulation.