Fit and Finish

[Talltim]

In trying to work towards the best fit and finish possible we have used both the bushings and calipers as a guide. Do most turn just a little low of actual in anticipation that 10 or more rounds of CA will build the diameter to make a better fit and feel.

I have also debated whether when the hardware is rounded where it meets the wood if it is better to round down slightly or leave it crisp an square.

 

[keithbyrd]

I turn flush then sand it down a bit - the CA fills in nicely. I usually soften the edge by lightly sanding but rarely round it off.

 

[TonyL]

Hi Tim: I want my finished diameter (where the material meets hardware) to be slightly "proud" of the OD of the hardware. "Proud" to me, is about the thickness of a lady's fingernail. I also prefer to create a slight radius from material to the hardware. These are just my preferences; I don't know what the majority of folks do. Have a great one!

 

[wood-of-1kind]

Hi Tim: I want my finished diameter (where the material meets hardware) to be slightly "proud" of the OD of the hardware. "Proud" to me, is about the thickness of a lady's fingernail. I also prefer to create a slight radius from material to the hardware. These are just my preferences; I don't know what the majority of folks do. Have a great one!

Tony, I do the same as you and like a little more "meat" left on my pens especially at the nib end where some kits are way too thin. Helps to extend the life term of my wood pens. This is especially true of the slim lines and some Sierra's. Some members see this as shortcoming but I'm with you in satisfying a personal (thickness)preference. .smile:

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

Lots of responses possible on this one! Overall, to me, it depends on the pen I'm working on. Some seem to demand a fit that is spot on (CSUSA Clicker, for example). Others are forgiving (PSI's Vertex). Still others you can be downright sloppy. But in truth, I try to make the ransition from part to part to be "seamless".

 

[leehljp]

I use calipers, period, so that I know where the fit and finish stand. On a few pens where there are designs at the point of mating of the finished blank, I will finish to an oversize of .001 or .002 and round the edges with a touch of 8000 to 12000 MM.

I usually turn down to .003 under size and build back up with CA to size or maybe .001 over. Most people will not know the difference, but on occasion you will see someone running their fingers over the joints to see how smooth the transitions are. I have had this happen on several occasions over the years. Some people do notice. AND the hand/fingers have the ability to feel transitions finer than .001.

As to sanding down or turning down, it depends on your preference and how you do best.

 

[magpens]

I prefer crisp and square ... as close as I can get it.

Agree with Hank's approach ...

"I usually turn down to .003 under size and build back up with CA to size or maybe .001 over. Most people will not know the difference, but on occasion you will see someone running their fingers over the joints to see how smooth the transitions are. I have had this happen on several occasions over the years. Some people do notice. AND the hand/fingers have the ability to feel transitions finer than .001."

I assume Hank is referring to measurement of DIAMETER which is the readout of the calipers.

 

[leehljp]

I prefer crisp and square ... as close as I can get it.

I assume Hank is referring to measurement of DIAMETER which is the readout of the calipers.

Yes! :redface: diameter!

 

[Dehn0045]

A little while back Jay (TattooedTurner) posted some threads kind of on this topic. You might find some useful information in these threads -- I did.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/el-grande-fb-red-mallee-burl-148432/

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/acurracy-turning-145999/

For myself, I usually go for "good enough" on the finish. Most of my pens are given away, and I would rather give more pens than better pens at this point. But I do experiment with how close I can get. Some of the kits themselves are limiting. For example, the clip on the Rollester is substantially smaller than the end cap, so even if you are spot on to the size of the cap you don't get much benefit. I think Tony's advise is good, allowing for some imperfection while maintaining elegance. But I also understand the desire to get it dead on +/- 0.000

 

[BCBULLDOG78]

On wood or hybrid pens - my target is .005 below the caliper reading of the component piece. I have found that after putting on a CA finish over the wood, polishing and buffing the finish, etc. -this leaves me with a smooth transition between the turning and the component. I turn with calipers all the time after learning from Tony L when he came to Nashville a while back.

I started as most do just turning to the bushings however it often left me disappointed with the fit / finish of my pens. It is a good bit slower but to me it is not a race. I would rather have 5 done to my standard than 15 I slopped through just to say they were done.

On acrylics - I turn to the dimensions of the component measurements.

 

[gtriever]

Still learning, but right now on Acrylic I turn slightly proud of the components and sand to final fit. For wood, I turn to fit, then sand to slightly below, then bring it back to final fit with the finish.