First European

[spaceengravers]

I finally got my bushing today and was able to turn something other than slimlines. I have some European kits, so I turn one of those. Finally made one for myself! I'll post pics later...I think it turned out nice but had a couple of questions.

1. When turning the tenon for the center band, do most of you turn it exactly the width of the center band or leave it a little short so the center band overlaps the bottom barrel too?

2. When inserting the transmission, I had to push it way farther in than usual (for me). The slimline directions say to push it in to that first little circle mark near the bottom but when I did that, the ink was still 1/4" up there...I had to press the transmission about 1/4" farther in than for slimlines...is this correct?

Thanks for your help.

Mike

 

[Monty]

1. When turning the tenon for the center band, do most of you turn it exactly the width of the center band or leave it a little short so the center band overlaps the bottom barrel too?

I cut my tenon to 7/32" and this allows for a slight overlap of the lower barrel. Looks better IMHO.

2. When inserting the transmission, I had to push it way farther in than usual (for me). The slimline directions say to push it in to that first little circle mark near the bottom but when I did that, the ink was still 1/4" up there...I had to press the transmission about 1/4" farther in than for slimlines...is this correct?

On slim's the tranny is inserted to the line. Euros and Designers require the tranny be pressed in slightly further.

 

[spaceengravers]

Thanks, that's good to know. I thought I was doing something wrong...

 

[PaulSF]

Read the instructions carefully. They should tell you how wide to cut the tenon, and how far in to push the transmission. If they don't, use a different companies Euro kit in the future.

 

[mtgrizzly52]

The woodcraft and PSI instructions call for a 3/16" tenon, and that is exactly the same width as my parting tool so doing the tenon is pretty easy for me. When I do it at 3/16" then the center band covers the bottom of the pen perfectly. (By the way, I've just done Europeans this weekend so I'm talking from recent experience.)

The transmission is a challenge, but not a hard one. I start with the transmission pushed in to the point in the slimline instructions, then put the pen refill in to get an eyeball down the barrel to get a bit of a guess how far I need to push it in further. I then just go like an 1/8" at a time and then test to see where I'm at. Takes some time, but I'd rather be a 1/32" short, than a 1/8" long. After doing a couple of Europeans you will figure it out quickly.

I know that I would rather do European pens than slimlines any day.

Rick

 

[rjwolfe3]

I helped my wife with her first European (ok, mine too) and I had the same thing happen. I just kept pushing the trannie in a little at a time until it was sticking out correctly. Interesting kit but not sure if I like it.

 

[spaceengravers]

I think I will like it once I get the hang of it...it was just new to me. I do like the finished look and I like the way the center band can hang over the bottom a little. I've got several of the European kits, so I'll get plenty of practice on them. And I've got 30 slimlines in the mail on the way, so my son and I will have plenty to play with. Pretty soon though I'm going to have to splurge on a couple of the nicer kits....

Mike

 

[Monty]

Once you get a European tranny seated like you want it, measure the total length from the tip to the top of the refill. Then take a scrap of wood and cut it to that length and use as a jig. Place it next to the pen/tranny as you press the tranny in to get extremely close to the correct depth.

 

[jbostian]

Once you get a European tranny seated like you want it, measure the total length from the tip to the top of the refill. Then take a scrap of wood and cut it to that length and use as a jig. Place it next to the pen/tranny as you press the tranny in to get extremely close to the correct depth.

I will be trying my first European kit soon. That is a good tip. Thanks.

Jamie

 

[spaceengravers]

Another question I had. How do I square up the pen above the tenon? I try to keep my tools very straight but when I push the bushing over the tenon, it will be flush against part to barrel but then as I turn the barrel the other side will have a small gap. I'm thinking about making a jig with a circular disk that has sandpaper on it with a hole the size of the tenon in the middle and holding it against the barrel while turning to true it up...but I don't think I should have to do that...What am I doing wrong?

 

[tim self]

Another question I had. How do I square up the pen above the tenon? What am I doing wrong?

As I use only a skew to turn, the angle of the skew allows me to actually cut a recess (undercut). This is probably the single most important thing for the Euro. Practice makes perfect, or pretty close!:biggrin:

 

[TellicoTurning]

1. When turning the tenon for the center band, do most of you turn it exactly the width of the center band or leave it a little short so the center band overlaps the bottom barrel too?Mike

Like Monty, I cut so there's a slight overlap.. I think looks better.

2. When inserting the transmission, I had to push it way farther in than usual (for me). The slimline directions say to push it in to that first little circle mark near the bottom but when I did that, the ink was still 1/4" up there...I had to press the transmission about 1/4" farther in than for slimlines...is this correct?

Thanks for your help.

Mike

On the transmissions, PSI and CSUSA directions give you the depth to press the tranny.... I use a trial and error method... press as far as I think it should be, try the refill, then press a little further until I'm satisfied with the depth... it works for me and I rarely have a problem with the tranny pressed too far.

 

[Len Shreck]

I just came across this thread and since I have made only one European pen I have a few questions about them also: 1, when you glue/epoxy the center band to the blank is there a trick on how NOT to get glue/epoxy on the outside of the center band? 2, I think these pens are very top heavy how would it work if I switched the tubes made the short tube on top and the smaller tube on bottom would that bring more of the weight into the center of the pen? 3, I ordered my European kits off eBay and they didn't come with instructions so I am trying to use CSUSA instructions on them and I looked at other instructions and one said about there being 2 different methods of turning a European pen when it comes to the center band and the tenon which one, if either, will make the pen not only easier to turn but less top heavy?
The one I made was for a customer and they refused it because it was so top heavy that is why I am trying to find a way of making mine less top heavy. Thanks for any and all advise. Len

 

[TellicoTurning]

I just came across this thread and since I have made only one European pen I have a few questions about them also: 1, when you glue/epoxy the center band to the blank is there a trick on how NOT to get glue/epoxy on the outside of the center band? 2, I think these pens are very top heavy how would it work if I switched the tubes made the short tube on top and the smaller tube on bottom would that bring more of the weight into the center of the pen? 3, I ordered my European kits off eBay and they didn't come with instructions so I am trying to use CSUSA instructions on them and I looked at other instructions and one said about there being 2 different methods of turning a European pen when it comes to the center band and the tenon which one, if either, will make the pen not only easier to turn but less top heavy?
The one I made was for a customer and they refused it because it was so top heavy that is why I am trying to find a way of making mine less top heavy. Thanks for any and all advise. Len

Len,
I'm not sure I understand your question on the top heaviness... the tubes are the same diameter and one is shorter than the other... the short tube is the clip end of the pen and the longer tube is the bottom (nib end)... if you reverse the tubes, it will be top heavy and you will have to watch closely on the transmission insertion... you won't push the transmission in quite as far as you will if you put the long tube on bottom.

As far as instructions, if you go to the catalogs of the various suppliers, CSUSA, PSI, Berea, Packardwood, Woodcraft, etc.... you can find the instructions for the various pens they carry and download them in PDF format.... if you bought off eBay, it may be a wild guess as to who the supplier may be, but if the kits still have the markings/catalong numbers on them, you might be able to determine whose kit you got.

On gluing the center band.. only advise I can give there, be very carefully... put a very very small drop of glue on the very outer edge of the tenon.. then as you put the center band in place, twist slightly to spread that very very small drop of glue..

The European was the first pen I turned and I have made many of them over the years... my personal pen is an 8mm Euro in Olivewood... very first I ever made.

 

[Len Shreck]

I guess I was just wondering if I used the long tube on the clip end and the short tube on the nib end if it would balance out the pen more so it wasn't so top heavy, but I re-read my post and I didn't get that across very well. Len

 

[jocat54]

I guess I was just wondering if I used the long tube on the clip end and the short tube on the nib end if it would balance out the pen more so it wasn't so top heavy, but I re-read my post and I didn't get that across very well. Len

Len, I have done that--not on purpose---I don't think it looks good at all.

John

 

[PenMan1]

If you have an old "bi metal" saws-all blade laying around, grind the teeth off of it, cut it to about 8 inches long (or whatever feels good in your hand) and wrap the back end with electrical tape.

This tenon cutting knife allows for precise square cuts and I just measure "3 knife thicknesses" for the width and it cuts a perfect tenon every time.

 

[delbruce]

Another newbie here.. What is the difference between a European and a Designer? Some companies sell one or the other, but cannot really tell the difference. I've used a micrometer on all the different components.. they spec out the same.
I too like Europeans(designer) better than slim lines.. although the skill level that I set for myself to produce an absolutely straight top and bottom sections(ala bic)..made it interesting as well as frustrating. Finishing is another area of many opinions and techniques. I'm going to do more reading on that subject. Nice to find you here. So far have picked up a few good hints..

Bruce

 

[zig613]

Len...

Re getting glue on the centre band. I place a small amount of glue on the inside of the centre band vs. placing it on the tenon. This way when you slide on the centre band onto the tenon the glue doesn't squeeze out onto the center band, it spreads out onto the tenon.

Bruce...

Re designer vs. european. These are the same pen kit... just different names by the various manufacturers and/or distributors. Note, there are two sizes available... a 7 mm (Cross refill) and a 8 mm (Parker refill) european/designer kit.

Wade

 

[Gary Zakian]

New to turning and find this site incredibly helpful. In that regard I wanted to share some issues I had with my first experience turning an European from Rockler.

First, the instructions were horrible. I learned more about how it was to be put together from studying the picture on the website. Second, I used the 3 bushing set and turned the blanks to the bushings, but when I went to put the top together the center ring stood very proud of the turned blank. The instructions said nothing about making a tenon for the center ring to slip over.

I have a pen press, and used a lot of patience to get the transmission depth correct. It worked, but took far longer than other pens I have made.

Once I got it put together it was a very nice pen, and I will make more as all those I show it to like it.

 

[Mr Vic]

Quick tip for transmission insertion....after you've pressed one in an have the pen point comoing out to the length you like. Measure from the end of the transmission to the tip of the nib. This measurment will be the same for all pens that use the Cross style refill. Cut a "V" in a 2x4 scrapr and trim it to this length. Then use it as a guide to press together the parts. I use a bench vice for pressing and when the clamp bottom on the "V" block the transmission is pressed to the correct depth.

Hers's another method which I haven't tried. http://content.penturners.org/articles/2004/penassembly1.pdf