Finishing Walnut Burl? - International Association of Penturners
     International Association of Penturners
Pens for Service Members
 
Support The IAP

Go Back   International Association of Penturners > Community Forums > Penturning
  Forgot Password
Register FAQ Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
Penturning General penturning discussions not specifically addressed in one of the specialty forums.


Logged on members can hide ads!

Welcome to penturners.org!

You've found the home of The International Association of Penturners. You are currently viewing our site as a guest, which gives you limited access to view discussions, photos, and library articles.

Consider joining our community today. You'll have full access to all of our content, be able to enter our contests, find local chapters near you, and post your questions and share your experience with our members all over the world.

Membership is completely free!!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-13-2019, 02:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Celina, TX
Posts: 5
Photos: 0

Default Finishing Walnut Burl?

Hi All,

Confession: I posted this in the finishing forum, but am posting here too since this forum seems to be a lot more active. Sorry for the redundancy.

I've been woodworking for over 25 years, but have only been turning pens for a few months. I have successfully used CA on just about every type of wood I've tried so far, but I've been recently trying to finish some walnut burl and have had a terrible time getting it polished without sanding through. I've tried a few in polyurethane with a little better success, but sill am not achieving the results that I want. I suspect that it's related to the grain structure of the burl and the fact that it doesn't absorb the finish as well as non-burl wood does.

Does anyone have any tips?

Thanks.

Charlie
Plowboy is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 01-13-2019, 02:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
BURLMAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,265
Photos: 10

Default

Charlie,
I have done a number of walnut burl pens, finished with CA, and have not had the problem you describe. A couple of questions: What brand CA? What viscosity? How many coats? Dry sanding or wet sanding? Are you cleaning the blank with acetone or DNA before finishing? Well, that's more than a couple, and other turners who have more expertise than I may ask others as well.

John
BURLMAN is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 01-13-2019, 03:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 320
Photos: 0

Default

Try a friction polish which looks and feels like a gun stock when done properly. I use it all the time. P.
philipff is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Advertisement
Old 01-13-2019, 03:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX, NM or on the road
Posts: 1,634
Photos: 0

Default

I don't care for the plastic feel of the CA finish, for burls and other fancy woods I do a classic gunstock finish. I start by wet sanding the last 2 or 3 grits using Tru Oil or a home brewed concoction that is similar. The wet sanding allows me to fill in any pores or other imperfections in the wood with sanding "dust/mud". After the last grit is finished, the work begins. Hand rubbed coats every 24 hours for 4 to 8 days. This process is explained in an article by Frank Whiton called Classic Gunstock Finishes. https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037
dogcatcher is online now   Reply With Quote Top
Old 01-13-2019, 03:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
jttheclockman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: NJ, USA.
Photos: 83

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dogcatcher View Post
I don't care for the plastic feel of the CA finish, for burls and other fancy woods I do a classic gunstock finish. I start by wet sanding the last 2 or 3 grits using Tru Oil or a home brewed concoction that is similar. The wet sanding allows me to fill in any pores or other imperfections in the wood with sanding "dust/mud". After the last grit is finished, the work begins. Hand rubbed coats every 24 hours for 4 to 8 days. This process is explained in an article by Frank Whiton called Classic Gunstock Finishes. https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037


Oh my!!!
__________________
John T.
jttheclockman is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 01-13-2019, 05:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
Member Liaison
 
leehljp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tunica, MS,
Posts: 6,233
Photos: 46

Default

Charlie,

Stabilize the blanks with vacuum tank and stabilizer.

Many finishing problems as you are describing can be fixed by using a stabilizer on your blanks. There are many posts here on using paint pressure tanks as a vacuum tank and then putting blanks in a stabilizing solution, pulling a vacuum and letting it cure. This especially helps on pourous woods and softer woods, and makes them take a finish much better.

OR . . .
Also, if you have some ne-waxed shellac, put a coat or two on, sand and then add your CA. Seams like you are having a sealing problem. That too can be handled by CA. Add a coat or two of thin CA (and you have done that) and then add two or three coats of medium to thick CA. Sand and then add your thin finishing CA.
__________________
Hank Lee

Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

Last edited by leehljp; 01-13-2019 at 05:31 PM.
leehljp is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 01-13-2019, 05:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Celina, TX
Posts: 5
Photos: 0

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BURLMAN View Post
Charlie,
I have done a number of walnut burl pens, finished with CA, and have not had the problem you describe. A couple of questions: What brand CA? What viscosity? How many coats? Dry sanding or wet sanding? Are you cleaning the blank with acetone or DNA before finishing? Well, that's more than a couple, and other turners who have more expertise than I may ask others as well.

John
I'm using Stick Fast medium CA glue which is what I've used on other woods with no problem. I have been applying 6 coats and then micromesh wet sand from 1500 up to 12,000 which I initially tried on the walnut. I also tried skipping some of the lower grits as well as moving straight to polishing without any sanding. I had sand through in all cases. The only thing that I've found that gets close is 4 coats of poly and then polishing, but the finish isn't as smooth as CA.

I have not been cleaning the blanks with DNA or acetone. Is there something different about burls that requires this?

Thanks.
Plowboy is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 01-13-2019, 08:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
bsshog40's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Midland, Tx
Posts: 419
Photos: 7

Default

I just finished doing my first burl pen the other day. The blanks was bought stabilized. I did a regular CA finish on it with no issues. Did it the same as I do my wood blanks.
__________________
Bobby
My Original Music
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVo...zlEDqtFtPNYTkQ
bsshog40 is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 01-13-2019, 09:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
jttheclockman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: NJ, USA.
Photos: 83

Default

There is nothing special with them I am working on a burl right now and using the same thin CA to med CA with about 6 to 8 coats. Sand with 1200 wet dry paper and then MM. Looks good to me. I will wipe a blank down with DNA or Acetone before I apply CA but wait till it is completely dry before that. Good luck.
__________________
John T.
jttheclockman is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 01-13-2019, 10:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Houston, Texas
Photos: 12

Default

I'm with JT, nothing really special about burls when it comes to CA finish. That said, here are a couple of things that might be the source of your problem: Darker material show imperfections more than lighter materials, you may be sanding through on other materials but just isn't as noticeable. If you do a lot of sanding prior to finishing then you might have peaks and valleys on the surface. Burls are a little more sensitive to this issue due to the grain going all different directions.

One suggestion is to build up a little more CA prior to sanding and polishing. I have also found that if I sand CA shortly after application I will remove a lot more material, but it gets a bit harder if I let it sit overnight and a little easier to work without sanding through. Just my 2 cents, I hope you find the source of your problem.
__________________
--Sam
Likes: (1)
Dehn0045 is online now   Reply With Quote Top
Related Content
Logged on members can hide ads
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:29 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

Content Copyright © 2003-2019 by Penturners.org, LLC; All Rights Reserved
Terms Of Service   Acceptable Use Policy