Finishing Aluminum

[vtgaryw]

I just turned my first aluminum pen. Haven't assembled it yet. I was rummaging around and found a piece of 6061-T6 AL tubing that was perfect for making a simple slimline.

What's the feeling on finishing 6061? Anything simple I can use? I'm not going to go to the trouble of anodizing it.

Thanks,

Gary

 

[magpens]

Good to know about the lacquer finishing technique .

... mentioned in your other thread.

 

[chartle]

Do you even need to finish Al? Though I have heard of issues handling raw Al I believe it creates an oxide coating almost immediately.

I would sand to a high grit like 12,000, maybe use polishing compound, put on some wax and call it a day.

 

[Woodster Will]

I've sand blasted quite a few Aluminium and steel bits and pieces which looks nice if you can get it done.

 

[More4dan]

600 grit satin finish helps hide scratches that WILL quickly appear if you polish. Make sure all the 600 scratches run in the same direction.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app

 

[dogcatcher]

I polish aluminum like acrylics, I sand through the grits and finally buff it using Eastwood's mag and aluminum wheel compounds, then wax it. The one finish I liked was from Eastwood, Eastwood Diamond Clear DTM and Painted Surfaces Aerosol

My favorite for aluminum and brass is the polishing as above and then "jeweling" the shiny surface. This video explains Jeweling https://youtu.be/U2ggYjdzfsg search "rifle bolt jeweling" for more information.

 

[Dalecamino]

Doc told me about VHT it's a clear coat for aluminum wheels. You can find it on the shelf in the paint section at Autozone.

I painted mine mounted on the lathe with it turning slowly. Light coats (follow instructions on the can) No sanding :biggrin:

I found the thread.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/aluminum-barons-143277/

 

[PatrickR]

The OP didn't say what kind of finish he's going for but if its polished a finish is a must. Pick your poison, so to speak. VHT is a good product, but is intended for V.ery H.igh T.emperatures, most of those products require baking to reach max hardness.

The jewel finish (or engine-turning) would be difficult on compound curves. I've not seen it done on a pen. It would definitely require a finish to retain its looks on soft metals. It can be done simply by attaching a piece of cloth to the end of a doll-rod and twisting it between your palms.

 

[Lucky2]

Gary, I think I would use a spray lacquer to finish it off.
Len

 

[tomas]

What about powder coating?

Tomas

 

[ldb2000]

Any finish you put on it will either scratch off or peel . the best finish is a high polish and some wax . I sand through the numbers than finish with white diamond polishing compound then some ren wax but any kind of wax will do . If you want a satin finish , finish as before but cut back the shine with some steel wool , it gives a nice durable satin finish .
I also give my customers a small bag of NevrDull wading and tell them to polish weekly

 

[Dalecamino]

What about powder coating?

Tomas

Did that too!

IAP Home - Photos - Aluminum

 

[BKelley]

I like aluminum, especially 6061-T6. It does have some drawbacks tho. It can leave black smudges on a white shirt and it will tarnish. For a bright mirror like finish, sand thru 12,000, then Walpole as mentioned, or I use Simichrome. For a satin finish try the maroon Scotch Brite. After achieving the degree of polish or sheen you desire a coat of Renaissance wax will help. Has anyone tried 7075-T6, if so, let us hear from you.

Ben

 

[PatrickR]

There are a number of direct to metal clears that are guaranteed to never chip or peel. Wax will require maintenance. Ok for some, but most people won't do it.
Powder coating is ideal but the only one I've used has a minimum.

 

[Dalecamino]

If you talk real nice, they may run your blanks when they have a batch running in the color you want. In my case they charged me $11.00 for the two red blanks.