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Old 12-09-2016, 12:11 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Michael send me your address and I will send you some Dr. Kirk's. I have not not been able to achieve the advertised results with it.
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Old 12-09-2016, 01:19 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Rather than the square MM pads, you might try MM sheets like these:

https://www.amazon.com/SANDING-SHEET...A2NWLOWWF5G7JX

They are more flexible than the pads and should work better on complex curves. I cut them into 1" x 3" strips and they last a long time. After going through one set of the square pads, I tried the sheets and have never looked back. You can also get them in larger-sized sheets.
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:57 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyL View Post
Michael send me your address and I will send you some Dr. Kirk's. I have not not been able to achieve the advertised results with it.
Hey Tony,

How are you applying it? And what results are you getting?

My polish method goes like this. 320 grit, 400 grit, 600 grit, with lateral sanding between each grit, then Scratch free polish at 3000 rpm, then Micro magic 1, 2, 3, at 3k rpm with lateral sanding between each polish. Then lastly, I'll use a plastic polish. It cuts down a huge amount of time for me polishing acrylics as opposed to wet sanding with Micro Mesh.

I like to use small flannel squares to apply the polish because most pape r towels are too rough.

This watch pen I did using that method.
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:46 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyL View Post
Michael send me your address and I will send you some Dr. Kirk's. I have not not been able to achieve the advertised results with it.
Tony, thank you very much for the offer. I've already ordered a set from CSUSA. Perhaps someone else would like to take you up on your generous offer.

Regards,
Michael
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:53 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
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I will buy it from you, Tony. If you still have it...
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:40 PM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike@CSUSA View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyL View Post
Michael send me your address and I will send you some Dr. Kirk's. I have not not been able to achieve the advertised results with it.
Hey Tony,

How are you applying it? And what results are you getting?

My polish method goes like this. 320 grit, 400 grit, 600 grit, with lateral sanding between each grit, then Scratch free polish at 3000 rpm, then Micro magic 1, 2, 3, at 3k rpm with lateral sanding between each polish. Then lastly, I'll use a plastic polish. It cuts down a huge amount of time for me polishing acrylics as opposed to wet sanding with Micro Mesh.

I like to use small flannel squares to apply the polish because most pape r towels are too rough.

This watch pen I did using that method.
Hi Mike.

Thanks for the advice. You and I spoke over a year ago about it when I called CSUSA. I was using it just as you advised me. Didn't you say you were part of the test group?

Anyway, it does reduce the size of scratches, just not as much as I would like it to - I am not blaming the product... I am sure it is me and the magnification under which I inspect my work.

Best to you and thanks again.
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:41 PM   #27 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
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I will buy it from you, Tony. If you still have it...
PM sent. I am giving some away. I promised some to others too.
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Old 12-13-2016, 06:23 AM   #28 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwlundgren View Post
I'm relatively new to turning acrylics/plastics.

I've kept my acrylics shapes fairly simple due to the difficulty of getting them smooth and shiny.

Working with the little square wet sanding pads can leave grooves, lines, and ruts in the shapes.

Is there a way to get these smoother?

Thanks! Gary
When I started I did all the wet sanding jazz, but once you start getting good at buffing that's where the magic really happens ;)

There's a great thread here called kicked up a notch that helped steer many users here.
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Old 12-22-2016, 01:29 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Look into flame polishing. More than a few of the duck call guys are doing it, and flame polishing has a long history of use in the wider world of plastics fabrication. It does, btw, need to be flame. A heat gun doesn't put out enough concentrated heat.
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