finish on acrylic question

[laurie sullivan]

happy new year all,
my question is, i'm turning an acrylic pen for the first time and was wondering how you get the high polish i see on your pens? i have no problem with wood finish, but i'm stumped with the acrylic.

i love what it looks like so i don't want to mess it up.

thanks, laurie

 

[Mikey]

Micro mesh as high as you can. My kit goes through 8,000 grit, and I use a little water on it. Some people use plastic polish or a buffing system, but I use a good car polish and then carnauba wax. The pen not only shines like heck, but also feels so slick and smooth.[8D]

 

[LanceD]

I wet sand 320-600 grit sandpaper and wet sand with MM 2400-12,000 and then use Novus 1 & 2 plastic polish. 1 removes tiny swirl marks and 2 polishes to a high gloss.

 

[wudwrkr]

I do a lot of acrylics and what works for me is:
o Wet sanding with water for all grits through 12000MM. I usually start with 240 and will sand cross grain with the lathe off to take out any gouge marks or other scratches.
o Using a slow speed while sanding, especially with MM. Failure to do so can cause the acyrlic to melt or damage the MM.
o Finish off with a plastics polish. I will apply the polish with the lathe off, let it dry and then with a soft cloth, buff it. I then apply some Ren Wax, assemble the pen and then one more coat of Ren wax. Others use automotive polish, but I haven't tried that yet.

Also, when turning the acrylics, don't try to take too much of a cut, the acrylic can chip on you. And, make sure your tools are sharp! Enjoy!

 

[laurie sullivan]

wow you guy's are quick.......thanks, i guess i'll need to stop and head for the hardware store for the 1200 sand paper and polish. since i don't wax my own car i don't have any of the sutff i need. i'll let you know how it turns out. (post a pic later)
thanks again.
laurie

 

[wudwrkr]

Laurie. Some of the sandpaper we talk about and reference as MM is a special type called Micro-Mesh. http://tinyurl.com/abb5u The grits range from 2400 to 12,000. Of course it is a different grit rating than most of the other papers, but it lasts a long time and produces some of the best finishes. Unfortunately, it is not something you can find at the hardware store. Most of the pen supplier places carry it. The link above points to Arizona Silhouette's site, but you can also find it at Craft Supplies, Woodcraft, Rockler, etc.

Can't wait to see the pics! []

 

[laurie sullivan]

thanks for the message. after i posted the last one i did some reading and have ordered the kit you mentioned. the pen will just have to wait till i get it. you are right 1200 is a far cry from 12000. even got the polish ordered.

thanks, laurie

 

[TexasJohn]

Hi Laurie - Happy New Year. I am in the same boat you are. I am going to try to turn my first acrylic tomorrow. I was waiting for the buffing setup I ordered from BB to get in. It came in yesterday so I am ready to go. I talked with someone about sanding with water, I think it was Bill, and they suggested that if you sanded with water you were more than likely to get your lathe wet - and that could result in rust. I was also told that as you sand, wipe of the dust as you change to the next grit. Bill suggested buffing with diamond buffing compound (I think that's what it is called). Hope this is some help and I will be anxious to see the photo. One more thing - When are you going to make a visit to a WoodCraft near me? And when you come, bring some of those beautiful pens. Texas John

 

[thetalbott4]

If you are worried about water on the lathe (which you should be) just lay a towel across the bed. wet sanding with mm to 12000 is the only way to go and follow with the novus 1 & 2.

 

[btboone]

Once you find and use Micro Mesh, you'll wonder how you ever got by without it. You can polish to perfect glass finish with just the Micro Mesh. The polish is just icing on the cake.

 

[TomServo]

laurie: the 12000 grit rating on the MM is a bit misleading, as they use their own system - 1200 grit is equivalent to 3200 micro mesh.. I sand to 1500 then start with 2400 MM, even though I could start at 4000

 

[Mikey]

While regular paper may be the equal, regular paper also loads up pretty fast with a lot of woods or materials. In fact, I had to quit using regular paper all together on any acrylics as it would just load the paper too fast. Does this just happen with me? (I have found this to be the case also with ANY stabilized wood blank as well.)

As to using water and getting lathe wet, I use water and do ot get the lathe wet. All I take is the MM in one hand and a glue brush in the other. I apply some water to the turning with the glue brush and start using the MM. The water is more than enough to do the job, yet it does not make a mess. As I get done with each grit, I wipe the part with a paper towel and move on to the next grit. In fact, I have a few stains on the bed, and they are from me trying to lean up the Enduro I use when doing wood. LOL

 

[knifecut]

I was just about ready to ask about this subject, as I just picked up a few blanks at woodcraft.

Thanks for the tips.

Anyone make things from the acrylic cutoffs, like earrings and such?

 

[jahlg]

I dont throw away any cutoffs, I have a drawer in my shop just for them!! I use them as accent colors or for floating centerbands. i have been doing a lot of designs with acrylics and corian, which makes some beauties!!!! But alas the kids broke my digital cameram so it is in the shop right now, so i cant show my stuff yet.

 

[mick]

Mentioning using acrylic cut offs ....I was looking at someone's website the other day.(I forget who) But they sold pens, not just inexpensive slimlines but Barons and Jr Gents made from cut offs. These weren't just stacked on top of each other but also side to side in a random pattern making a patchwork design. He called these pen "End of the Day" pens. The ones I saw were striking and different.As an added note they weren't cheap either....lol

 

[wdcav1952]

If Novus polish is not readilly available, the $2 bottle (yellow) of Kit scratch and swirl remover at Wal-Mart works well.

 

[wayneis]

The water is a lubricant and as such the more the better in my opinion. I have a piece of plastic and a piece of blue jean material that I lay across my lathe bed when ever I wet sand or finish and that protects my lathe. The more lubricant that you use the less chance you have of getting deep scratches in your blanks. For my acrylic work the last step is the buffing wheel, no matter how shinny the blanks look I have learned that buffing them will make them look like glass, especially the blanks that have a rubber like content like some of the Italian or German blanks ( the name escapes me right now). Anyway, water is the least of my worries, I also use a spray lubricant and metal sealer to protect my lathe once in a while.

Wayne

 

[fuzzydog]

Laurie, Wet sanding is a must do. I keep a roll of wax paper and a water bottle right next to the lathe. My theory of how much water is the "floor will dry." I also give each grit of MM a final rinse before I head to the next, this keeps the MM looking and acting like it is brand new. Another little trick I use on all metal beds ie: table saw, band saw, planner etc. is to clean the bed with a solvent than apply a coat of automotive paste wax. This saved my table saw and band saw after the fire dept. hosed down the shop. I read that this also reduces friction up to 400% when moving wood through the cutting blade. I have found that twice a year really protects the beds.

I used to have a handle of life, but it broke

 

[RussFairfield]

Another excellent polish for the Acrylics is "Brasso". Nice very high shine and it is available almost everywhere for about $3.

 

[Glass Scratcher]

Just curious, has anyone tried Cerium Oxide in their final polishing? I have some 90% optical grade for my glass work, I use it in prep/cleaning glass. It's in the 3 micron range I believe.

I'll give it a try myself, when I have time in a few weeks. Presently I have too many contracts for a change, and I am behind at that.

 

[Blind_Squirrel]

Originally posted by RussFairfield
<br />Another excellent polish for the Acrylics is "Brasso". Nice very high shine and it is available almost everywhere for about $3.

Russ,

Do you use the Brasso as the final step?

 

[Pipes]

I know Iam gona spell this wrong But Mcguire's car polish for clear cost paint is perfect even the swirl remover and then the polish...It will bond to plastic were WAX will just smudge I do a final buff with a piece of flannel clean on the lathe or I have a dryer motor with a clean flannel buff also at about 600 RPM ...and here this week I used some RW and like it also !! []all this is after you go thru the sandpapper to 12000MM I never wet sand any plastic or rubber IMO there is no need if the sanding and buffing is done right I do black and colored pipe stems all day if I had to wet sand I would go nuts and Black is the hardest IMO for showing bad spots ! IMO there is NO need to wet sand Lucite /plastic/and rubber BUT if it works for you do it to it !! I think its a BIG waste a time again IMHO only now But I do buff about 200 pipes a week give or take and pipe smokers can be very picky on how a stem looks and the stems are the same material a LOT a times we use for pens !! PLEASE don't throw FRUIT :O)




http://affordablepipes.com/

 

[Russb]

Another vote for Brasso. I use on all synthetics acrylics, antler, tagua nuts etc.