Epoxy/PR help needed

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Draken

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I'm in the process of making a custom pen for a coworker to give to his wife for Valentines day. It is a cigar style, and I'm managed to get 15 minute epoxy in the tubes while gluing up the Polyester Resin Acrylic. The 10mm barrel trimmer shaft is too large, and the 3/8" isn't quite big enough to remove it all, so I'm left with a thin film of epoxy on the insides of the tubes. What is the best way to remove it without damaging the PR? I've tried using the small round diamond files, but that isn't getting it all out, and is scoring the insides of the tubes. Should I use DNA, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, acetone or something else? The thought is to put a drop or two of the correct chemical on a cotton swab and use that to remove the film. I need to get this resolved quickly so I can get these into the mail to be laser engraved.

Thanks,
Draken
 
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ryannmphs

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I usually use a round rasp (file), one or two strokes and all (well, most) traces of epoxy in the tube is gone. Just don't apply too much pressure and start removeing brass (DAMHIK [B)])

Ryan
 

JimGo

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The epoxy is a pain, because it's soft and will gum up the file/rasp, at least in my experience. What I did was to wipe the inside with some Acetone (seemed to help the epoxy harden a little more), run a small file down inside the tube to help break up the epoxy, then run a transfer punch from Harbor Freight inside the tube. If you've used the transfer punches a few times (not that I have, mind you [:I]), the ends will likely be slightly bent over, and provide a nice sharp edge for helping to remove the epoxy.
 

leatherjunkie

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next time you glue brass tubes into PR with epoxy do the following:

cut about a 1/4" slice size out of a potato. Stick both ends of the brass tube into the potato. This acts as plug and keeps the inside of the tube free of glue.

you can also use wax for plugs.

i have to use this method when gluing up the woodworkers pencil.
because of the threads inside the brass tube.
 

Draken

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Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone! I ended up using the transfer punches from HF. Before I did that, the bushing wouldn't fit at all, after using it, it slid in as smooth as could be. Guess I need to add a mini fridge to my shop to keep some potatoes in...

Cheers, and thanks!
Draken
 

TomServo

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Draken: no no no! you've got it all wrong - the fridge is for beer and the Captain (or better yet, Sailor Jerry). Potatoes don't need a fridge ;p not like you're gonna eat em. Or just use wax - the sheets from BB are superb.

On another, slightly on topic note, don't use DNA with PR blanks - it'll turn them into mush!
 

Draken

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Wasn't aware of a DNA PR reaction. I've used DNA to clean sanding dust off of 3 PR pens (PR that I cast myself) and so far, haven't seen any type of adverse effects on the PR. Have I just been lucky, or is there slight differences in different suppliers of PR that would account for this?

I've also picked up a large block (1.5 lbs) of wax from Michaels, so I'll try using that next time. Felt it was worth a try, only set me back $3.85 or so.

Cheers,
Draken
 

TomServo

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Draken: that's possible - my casting resin came from douglas and sturgess - i know others here have purchased from them - but technically it's all the same stuff. It would be duration of the contact as well, or maybe my DNA is extra strong or something. I put splotches of leftover resin on my workbench to see how they looked, and when I wipe them with DNA they turn dull and slightly soft/gummy. the pens somewhat less so but prolonged contact or a really wet contact will make them slightly soft
 
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