Epoxy to glue in tubes?

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Chasper

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5 minute epoxy will work fine unless you take longer than 5 minutes to get it applied or if you are in a hurry. In the five minutes to harden plus the 30 minutes to cure I usually have a dozen or so pens glued up, ends squared and I'm busy turning. If you are making them one at a time it works great.
 
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Resin?

This may seem a damn fool question but is there any reason clear polyester are acrylic resins are not used to glue tubes in? It would seem an ideal adhesive especially on resin blanks and would be on hand for those casting their own blanks. Matching colour could be added? It can't be much more of a pain to mix than epoxy (which I'm now using) and should be more compatible with the blank. Any reason it wouldn't also work on wood blanks since it is used to reclaim "wasted wood" blanks?
Just a thought?
 

nate peel

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I use the epoxy on resin blanks. It is good for making sure you have complete coverage of the tubes. I have switched to gorilla glue for all wood blanks though.
 

hunter-27

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I've used it all and have found reasons for each I like. My preferred is gorrilla or Sumo but do let those set 24 hrs to fully cure, if I'm in a pinch I'll use Epoxy, if in a flat hurry, the CA will do just fine. Any failures I've had were probably not the glue (rather the glue user) but since the poly glues 0 failures so I just stay with it for most. I don't crank out the pens so noo need to hurry most times. My opinion, chances are there will be others who disagree.
 

GouletPens

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This may seem a damn fool question but is there any reason clear polyester are acrylic resins are not used to glue tubes in? It would seem an ideal adhesive especially on resin blanks and would be on hand for those casting their own blanks. Matching colour could be added? It can't be much more of a pain to mix than epoxy (which I'm now using) and should be more compatible with the blank. Any reason it wouldn't also work on wood blanks since it is used to reclaim "wasted wood" blanks?
Just a thought?

It might work, but it would be nearly impossible to mix in small amounts. The biggest disadvantage with PR for 'glue' is that it's brittle, so I'd think that might cause some problems. All in all, it would just be too impractical to use for this purpose, though it can be done. I know one person who drills his holes big, then casts alumilite (dyed) in the hole, redrills to the right size, and glues in the tube. This is an alternative to painting the tube or inside of the blank to prevent show-through. it works, but again, not very practical.

I use 5-min epoxy, but I'm going to try switching to 60-min b/c I'm usually prepping multiple pens at a time and I found I can really only do up 2 pens (4 half-blanks), maybe 3 before the stuff sets up. You have '5' minutes, but that's from the time the two chemicals touch, then you have mixing time, which should be about a minute to get it mixed right. Then the stuff really starts to get thick after about 2-3 minutes, so really you're looking at just a couple minute window to glue in with 5-min. Great for just a couple of pens, but if you're doing large batches (I have 30 to do this coming week), it would be nice to be able to mix a big honkin' glob of glue and do up 10 pens at a time or so!

Anyone tried 60 min epoxy vs. 5-min? Any difference besides the obvious increased working time?
 
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Thanks Brian. I was just wondering about the resins. Have never handled them other than Inlace and it seemed like they might be a good choice.
I use mostly longer cure epoxy; usually have several projects in the works and have the time to allow over night or even a couple day cure times. Am presently useing the West System epoxy more to use it up than any other reason. As a retired laboratory tech I'm used to mixing by weight so making any sized batch is no problem. On wood I use a combination of thin and thick CA when I need a little more speed (or just get lazy). I prefer the long set epoxy for the working time. My sets seldom reach more than six or eight at a time but it's nice to have the time to fuss with them and no rushing. Lots of time to properly clean out any glue inside the tubes with Q-Tips.



It might work, but it would be nearly impossible to mix in small amounts. The biggest disadvantage with PR for 'glue' is that it's brittle, so I'd think that might cause some problems. All in all, it would just be too impractical to use for this purpose, though it can be done. I know one person who drills his holes big, then casts alumilite (dyed) in the hole, redrills to the right size, and glues in the tube. This is an alternative to painting the tube or inside of the blank to prevent show-through. it works, but again, not very practical.

I use 5-min epoxy, but I'm going to try switching to 60-min b/c I'm usually prepping multiple pens at a time and I found I can really only do up 2 pens (4 half-blanks), maybe 3 before the stuff sets up. You have '5' minutes, but that's from the time the two chemicals touch, then you have mixing time, which should be about a minute to get it mixed right. Then the stuff really starts to get thick after about 2-3 minutes, so really you're looking at just a couple minute window to glue in with 5-min. Great for just a couple of pens, but if you're doing large batches (I have 30 to do this coming week), it would be nice to be able to mix a big honkin' glob of glue and do up 10 pens at a time or so!

Anyone tried 60 min epoxy vs. 5-min? Any difference besides the obvious increased working time?
 
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I've used the epoxy and use it mainly for gluing my pepper mill works into the bodies...works much better than the CA (matter of fact, I've had several CA glue failures on the peppermills... none since switched to epoxy)... but it's a little messy and too fast for me to use on the pens with any regularity. I much prefer to use the thick CA on pen tubes.

I normally will glue up a number of pen blanks at a session and let them sit overnight... on the peppermills, I mix one cup at a time for the mills.... I use the little one ounce plastic cups that comes in Wall-Mart's Great Value drink mixes... there are 6 to a canister and we go through maybe a canister a week.... I have nearly a 100 or more of the little cups saved up and they are perfect for one application of the epoxy... put just enough of each component in the bottom of the cup, mix and apply, then throw away and get a clean cup for next application.
 

GouletPens

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The main difference is that you really need to let the 60-minute version set up overnight.

I suspected this was the case. I think there's a place for both. If I need a same day glue and turn, I'll do the 5-min. Batches, I'll use 60-min. I haven't used CA in about 2 years (for tubes, anyway!), and I haven't had a SINGLE glue failure with epoxy. The problem you run into with CA (esp on acrylics, trustone, etc) is that it has poor 'gap filling' qualities. If you drill the hole a little too big, you'll have a weak bond on the tube, even with good glue coverage. Each glues have their strengths, though, no question about that!:rotfl:
 

Smitty37

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Would it wok if i used epoxy to glue in my tubes?
I use only epoxy....I have used 5 minute but switched to a 15 minute because if I was glueing up a half dozen or so tubes I wasn't fast enough for the 5 minute. I let them cure a day or two before turning.
 

DurocShark

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I use epoxy under the following conditions:

Tubes are sloppy in hole (drill bit problems, tolerance problems, direction problems).
I am painting tubes or holes. CA can dissolve enamel.

I use CA under the following conditions:

Tubes are a tight fit in the hole.
I'm in a hurry.

Sometimes I'll use JBWeld for the epoxy. It expands a bit and is dark so works like I painted the tubes. Also I prefer it when I'm doing any kind of metal to metal joints.
 

Daniel

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Epoxy is my second favorite choice. Poly is my first. for me the poly is just a bit easier. I will use CA which hold plenty fine but care needs to be taken that you get good coverage and gap filling. I actually save old CA that is getting thick for gluing tubes and it works perfectly fine. if it is still fresh and thin I usually do not get good gap filling and have tubes that break free. It has not happened often but I have had it happen so for the most part I just stay away from CA for gluing tubes. IN truth I have all three types of glue in my shop. As well as couple others. and they are all used for one thing or another.
 

GouletPens

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Epoxy is my second favorite choice. Poly is my first. for me the poly is just a bit easier. I will use CA which hold plenty fine but care needs to be taken that you get good coverage and gap filling. I actually save old CA that is getting thick for gluing tubes and it works perfectly fine. if it is still fresh and thin I usually do not get good gap filling and have tubes that break free. It has not happened often but I have had it happen so for the most part I just stay away from CA for gluing tubes. IN truth I have all three types of glue in my shop. As well as couple others. and they are all used for one thing or another.

I wouldn't recommend waiting for CA to get thick, because that means it's not performing the way it's supposed to. You can buy CA in thin, medium, thick, or gel. Gel works the best, because you have the most working time. You can also guy 'flexible' CA, I've never tried that before though. Each one has their place, but for me personally epoxy is the way to go.

I mentioned before that I just got some 60-minute epoxy, and I did my first glue up of about 25 pens this afternoon using it. You REALLY have a lot of open time with it. I glued up all the tubes and was still able to move the first ones I glued by the time I was done. That can be a double-edged sword though, because you have to make sure the tubes don't move inadvertently after you glue them in. You just have to use common sense. But all in all, when I'm doing major glue ups, it's a whole lot faster to use 60-minute epoxy.
 
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