Ebonite: Be careful

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

aggromere

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
1,385
Location
Tampa, FL
Well after reading what the pipe maker that was kind enough to post how to finish ebonite, i tried my second ebonite pen tonite. Did a Jr. Gent single closed end. I don't have any photo's of it, it is still out in the garage.

The finish went great. I followed the instructions from the forums and got a very nice shiny finish. It was beautiful. (was is the operative word).

I press fit my pens on the lathe using some delrin fittings in the tail and head stock. The cap end assembled perfectly and I was excited.

When I was assembling the other end, the closed end collapsed on its' self. I guess without a tube in the last 3/8 inch was too weak for the pressure of assembly and it kinda reversed mushroomed. Too bad it wasn't perfectly symetrical, might have made an interesting pen.

So be careful when you assemble closed end ebonite pens. I have done a lot in acrylic in wood and never had that problem before and basicallly use the same technique for them all.

Tomorrow I am going to try and cut the bad end off and make it into a regular pen.

I just wanted to let peeps know and I would be curious if anyone else has had that problem and if they have what you do.

As always thanks.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

ed4copies

Local Chapter Manager
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
24,528
Location
Racine, WI, USA.
Thanks for the warning!!!!

Maybe make a dowel that is JUST long enough, stick it in the pen for support, while pressing the parts in. Then, remove the dowel (Make sure the diameter is small enough to pass through the nib thread fitting.
 

DCBluesman

Passed Away Mar 3, 2016
In Memoriam
Joined
Aug 22, 2004
Messages
7,679
Location
WOODBRIDGE, VIRGINIA
When making a closed barrel pen, drill only about 1/2" of the blank at the stated diameter (25/64") and use a partial tube (for the press fit only). Drill the rest of the way with a 7mm bit. Make sure to leave about 1/4" at the end undrilled. Between the end and the thicker sides, you should eliminate this problem.
 

ed4copies

Local Chapter Manager
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
24,528
Location
Racine, WI, USA.
Lou,

If you do that, the AS mandrel won't work, will it?

If not, do you just make a 7mm mandrel and use it for EVERYTHING??? It will be "sloppy" at the nib, but the rest of the hole will hold it steady? Or do you make your own custom mandrel?
 

DCBluesman

Passed Away Mar 3, 2016
In Memoriam
Joined
Aug 22, 2004
Messages
7,679
Location
WOODBRIDGE, VIRGINIA
The open end of the barrel is sized and held steady with the appropriate bushing. I use Russ Fairfield's method of grinding an x on a mandrel and then pressing it into the closed end of the barrel for stability.
 

ed4copies

Local Chapter Manager
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
24,528
Location
Racine, WI, USA.
The open end of the barrel is sized and held steady with the appropriate bushing. I use Russ Fairfield's method of grinding an x on a mandrel and then pressing it into the closed end of the barrel for stability.

That'll work!!!

Thanks:biggrin::biggrin:
 

aggromere

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
1,385
Location
Tampa, FL
I use a closed end mandrel from AS. I guess i could step drill the hole. Make the deepest part (for the spring) with a 7mm drill, or use the dowel. Thanks for the feed back.
 

ed4copies

Local Chapter Manager
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
24,528
Location
Racine, WI, USA.
Peter,

I really like that mandrel and have often used it. But, it appears that the brass tube is a necessity in that design (I always have used the tube, anyhow).

Lou's way will work to reinforce the rubber (which we know is more pliable than acrylic). Seems like a better idea.
And Lou makes a lot of closed end pens, so experience speaks volumes, to me.
 
Top Bottom