jahlg
Member
I am just curious as to what people use to color the lighter blanks such as maple, I have used brush tip amrkers then wiped with dna, but very inconsistent results. Whats the best way for a nice consistent color??
dyeing light colored woods
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Czarcastic
Member
Mixol tints and/or Trans-Tint dyes can be disolved in water or DNA. For best results, in my opinion, use DNA as it is non grain-raising.
Always seal the wood first with a wash coat of 1/2# cut super blonde dewaxed shellac before tinting. This helps to even penetration of the pigment.
I prefer Mixol. It comes in 24 colors, including many wood tones and primary colors, and blend well, for a pretty much unlimited range of colors and depth.
You can find it at woodcraft.
Always seal the wood first with a wash coat of 1/2# cut super blonde dewaxed shellac before tinting. This helps to even penetration of the pigment.
I prefer Mixol. It comes in 24 colors, including many wood tones and primary colors, and blend well, for a pretty much unlimited range of colors and depth.
You can find it at woodcraft.
KenV
Member
Powdered aniline dye is also available from Lee Valley for a moderate price. You are now entering the twilight zone of coloring and finishing. Mixol and Transtint are also good. Joe Woodworker site has some of the better prices on Transtint.
Option 1 -- you can color the wood. Different grains of wood will take the dye differently. This can provide a real "pop the grain" effect in some woods like curly maple.
Option 2. Tinting the finish -- colors mixed with alcohol work especially well to color small quanties of shellac (super blone dewaxed is the universal good starting material). The amount of colorant and the number of coats provides the degree of tint. Colors may be mixed together or layered. Air-brush and shading of subsequent coats is possible here. Look to a finish wear coat for final surfaces.
Option 3 Wash coat of thin finish followed by layers of color or colored finish. This is a good place for air-brush technologies and shading. Think of a final wear coat to protect the layers of color.
AAW American Wood Turner and Woodturning Design articles in recent issues provide more comprehensive discussion of the topic. Jeff Jewitt's site (Homestead.com as I remember) has more discussion on options. Some spectacular turnings are done with color dye and shading.
Option 1 -- you can color the wood. Different grains of wood will take the dye differently. This can provide a real "pop the grain" effect in some woods like curly maple.
Option 2. Tinting the finish -- colors mixed with alcohol work especially well to color small quanties of shellac (super blone dewaxed is the universal good starting material). The amount of colorant and the number of coats provides the degree of tint. Colors may be mixed together or layered. Air-brush and shading of subsequent coats is possible here. Look to a finish wear coat for final surfaces.
Option 3 Wash coat of thin finish followed by layers of color or colored finish. This is a good place for air-brush technologies and shading. Think of a final wear coat to protect the layers of color.
AAW American Wood Turner and Woodturning Design articles in recent issues provide more comprehensive discussion of the topic. Jeff Jewitt's site (Homestead.com as I remember) has more discussion on options. Some spectacular turnings are done with color dye and shading.
2rcbruce
Member
I use "Tranfast" powder dye on c.maple and have good results. I mix with water and dye just before finishing the blank. If I want a stronger color I will redip the blank. I have a old food dehydrater I use to quickly dry my died blanks. I have went back and resanded and removed some of the dye and came up with a cool effect.
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