Drying Blanks with DNA

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southernclay

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I've been reading up on this a bit. I've tried drying blanks with a dehydrator. Not a fan, too fast and blanks warped. Microwave not my favorite option either.

So I think I will try using DNA. Looks pretty straight forward.

Any tips? Soak in DNA for one day then wrap in newspaper or brown paper?

I assume nothing wrong with reusing the DNA for drying other wood in the future?

Have many blanks cut as well as some spindles.

Thanks!
 
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KenV

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Warren,

The DNA mixes with the sap and pitch in the wood, and the alcohol level drops making reuse less effective.

The sap and pitch color the remaining mix, and the mix will tend to color light colored wood in subsequent uses.

Was not a cheap solution but did get the wood ready faster.
.
 

Jim Burr

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I've used DNA for years on non-pen blanks. In addition to being extremely flammable, it's expensive and evaporates very quickly. It works on specific gravity and the gradient principle. The drawn from the blank will dilute the DNA over time and the leached tannin will turn the DNA dark, but this is not transferred to the meat of the wood...just a tiny bit of the surface. Soak as long an you want...3 days or a month...makes no difference. Let the blanks flash dry for about 20 minutes then wrap and store for about 3 weeks for a pen size blank. Feel free to try the weight and store method.
 

Timbo

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Kill Devil Hills, NC USA.
DNA works well to remove water from blanks, and they don't seem to warp after drying. I usually let the soak about a week, then air dry for another week.

DNA becomes less effective on reuse because it already has some water in it from the previous soaks. Lets say you reused it several times, which resulted in your 100% DNA becoming a mixture of 90% DNA and 10% water. Now you reuse it again, when you remove the blanks to dry the liquid in them will be at least 10% water.
 

keithbyrd

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Mount Wolf, PA
I have successfully died some pen blanks after 24 hour soak and 24 hour air dry -
I had a batch that I dried some black walnut in and following the guide of several others that it won't color the lighter woods I now have sever funny colored pieces of maple, catalpa, and ash! - -Jim is right "some " of it turns off!
 

lwalper

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Lancaster, TN
The other day I was splitting some firewood (green hickory) and came across a piece that looked like a pen. So, I drilled it, glued in a tube, turned it to almost finished size, then dunked it in the DNA for about 5 minutes. A couple minutes on the lathe at 2000 RPM and it was dry enough to finish. Good looking pen and a nice break from the log splitter.
 

Jim Burr

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The other day I was splitting some firewood (green hickory) and came across a piece that looked like a pen. So, I drilled it, glued in a tube, turned it to almost finished size, then dunked it in the DNA for about 5 minutes. A couple minutes on the lathe at 2000 RPM and it was dry enough to finish. Good looking pen and a nice break from the log splitter.

Cool!! What glue did you use for the tubes and did you notice and problems with it after the DNA dip?
 

southernclay

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You could use PEG

Bill I had never heard of that, pretty cool. Not cheap but I'm glad to know about it. The main thing I'm wanting to dry is cherry burl and water oak burl. It says it doesn't work on cherry. Doesn't specify water oak but doesn't work on white oak. Still cool stuff thanks
 

low_48

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Peoria, IL, USA.
The other day I was splitting some firewood (green hickory) and came across a piece that looked like a pen. So, I drilled it, glued in a tube, turned it to almost finished size, then dunked it in the DNA for about 5 minutes. A couple minutes on the lathe at 2000 RPM and it was dry enough to finish. Good looking pen and a nice break from the log splitter.

Keep us updated on if the blank goes oval or cracks. Never heard of wood drying that fast except in the microwave. Was it a slimline?
 
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