Drilling problems .

[Jordan Gilbert]

I am not sure if this is the right section or not . But I got my drill vise today because I got sick of using a chuck and drill chuck on my lathe . So I centered everything tested it on scrap wood and it was perfect . Then I drilled a pen blank and it came out perfect . Right until I turned it and looked at the other side and it was way off . I check the table it was level , I check the base it was level as well . Could it be the drill press drilling crooked ? Heres some pictures . I have never used the drill press before I just got it a few days .

 

[bmlewis]

maybe get a square and make sure your base is perpendicular to your drill bit

 

[gimpy]

Make sure your pen blank is square, if it isn't, it will get thrown off center

as shown in the photo

 

[randyrls]

Chuck a straight rod (pen mandrel) in the drill chuck. Use a square to check for squareness. Use a light behind the square to see any deviation. Be sure you square the bit both left-right and front-back.

 

[bastallard]

You may want to check that the drill bit is square with the table in all directions, I use a longer bit in the chuck and a smaller square, lower the bit so the chuck is just above the top of the square and if it is square all the way around the bit you should be fine.

 

[Jordan Gilbert]

Its perfectly square . I have tried 4 other pieces of wood , it seems like something is wrong in the drill press like its drilling at a angle or something .

 

[Kirk Dietrich]

I'm still trying to work on the same problem. However, the pen blank will still turn down just fine with the hole going like that - speaking from experience. So, don't throw away those that are drilled like that; just glue your pen tube in, slip it on the lathe and turn it down. Just work slow until you get the corners knocked down.
I'm gonna try some of the above suggestions for checking the square of my drill. Also, I saw on a video done by Ed of Exotic Blanks where he puts his blank in the vise but not all the way tight and then he moves it up against the drill bit and makes sure the blank is parallel to the bit. I'm going to try that on the next one I do after I check the square of the top like suggested above.

Kirk

 

[Tom T]

Hi Jordan,
I had the same issue. I found if I use very little pressure when drilling it goes a lot straighter. What I found happens is if I push the bit down to hard it Felix's the bit ever so much and it seems to make it wander to the side.
I found this both on wood and acrylic. Acrylic is worse than wood.
I also found that the scrap wood in the bottom of the squaring jig, would bulge when it went was drilled through. This made it seem that my black was plum but it was off just a little. So I pull it out after each cut and scrap it on the edge of my drill table to flatten it out.
The pressure needs to be real light.
Also it may help to tighten the blank a little more. When I put the blank in my jig I press it down with my finger and then tighten it up. I check to make sure the depth of the blank is even on both sides of the jig. If it is not even it is not square and plum.
When all this is done you should be in good shape.
I hope this helps, let me know.
I think I said very light pressure.
Tom

 

[mywoodshopca]

One quick way is to put a 1ft long piece of a metal hanger on the drill, bend it and then turn the drill by hand and make sure it has the same amount from the table all around it.

Attached picture that I found on google to show you what I mean

 

[ed4copies]

Hi Jordan,
I had the same issue. I found if I use very little pressure when drilling it goes a lot straighter. What I found happens is if I push the bit down to hard it Felix's the bit ever so much and it seems to make it wander to the side.
I found this both on wood and acrylic. Acrylic is worse than wood.
I also found that the scrap wood in the bottom of the squaring jig, would bulge when it went was drilled through. This made it seem that my black was plum but it was off just a little. So I pull it out after each cut and scrap it on the edge of my drill table to flatten it out.
The pressure needs to be real light.
Also it may help to tighten the blank a little more. When I put the blank in my jig I press it down with my finger and then tighten it up. I check to make sure the depth of the blank is even on both sides of the jig. If it is not even it is not square and plum.
When all this is done you should be in good shape.
I hope this helps, let me know.
I think I said very light pressure.
Tom

Sharpen your bit!

 

[Jim Burr]

Maybe try a starter bit and drill with less pressure...could be your bit deviating from center.

 

[alphageek]

You seem to be sure of square, but the bent hanger shown above will prove that. I would agree with Ed. A less than sharp bit will be more likely to deviate, even when drilling on the lathe. I used to get that a lot, now that I know to run my bit through my drill doctor at any sign of not super sharp, I have less problems. Try something like xcut wood or angled dymondwood and the effect gets worse fast.

 

[1080Wayne]

I wouldn`t get too hung up about a bit if drill wander . Bits sometimes follow the wood grain , and will always move towards a soft part of the blank when the wood density is not uniform . Dull bits increase these problems . In the end , the pen could care less whether or not the blank was drilled straight . It is only critical when drilling a blank which is only just large to make the desired pen , or when drilling a laminated blank where being off center ruins the design . I drill over half of my blanks off center , deliberately , to optimize the end appearance of the wood grain , spalt pattern , or whatever .

 

[Dale Allen]

Just a ragged theory that I have concerning the difference between DP and lathe drilling. Mind you this is just my theory.
I have tried using my DP and sometimes it drills straight and sometimes not.
Previously I also had a lot of problems with the lathe. I have shop-made adapters that fit on the chuck pin jaws. I finally spend a few hours and got the setup running true and can do a good job now, especially when doing Celtic knots.
Anyway, my theory is that the harder and softer grain is messing with the bit when I use the DP. I have read many articles that detail this in that the bit will track toward the softer grain. Some tight grain woods give me less trouble. When the wood is stationary in the DP and the bit is turning, that tendency to angle toward the softer sections is worse because the wood is not turning and the softer side is always pointed in the same direction.
However, when the wood is spinning, as in lathe drilling, the effect is less because the bit is trying to follow the softer side around and it sort of cancels the tendency to wander. I can tell when the bit is angling because the whole setup wobbles as I drill the hole.
Again, I'm not sure of all this and I may be completely wrong.
For my setup, several things must be correct. The blank must be nearly square, the bit must be sharp and I must keep the tailstock locking lever tight when starting the hole. Also, I often divit the end of the blank so the bit starts in the center better.
I drill 12.5mm holes in 5/8" blanks with little trouble now and the variance from end to end is often around .02" and .03". But then the fact that I have a .02" run-out on the headstock contributes to a lot of this.

 

[frank123]

Its perfectly square . I have tried 4 other pieces of wood , it seems like something is wrong in the drill press like its drilling at a angle or something .

If you have an angle gauge see if a chucked rod is at a true 90 degree angle with the table.

Both with the quill retracted and extended.

That will answer any question about if it is drilling true.

If it is, try starting the hole with a spotting drill (better than a center drill), an angle can be induced in the bit which will show up in an angle bore if there is even a tiny bit of drift when starting it on a flat surface.

 

[Dulos]

One other item to check is whether the shaft in the drill press is tight in it's bearings. If not, it can allow the bit to wander. Try chucking up a large bit and wiggling the tip. How much can it deviate from being on center?

 

[Ulises Victoria]

I had that problem with my drill press. It went away when I returned to drilling in my lathe. That's the only method I use now, after trying both.

 

[Jordan Gilbert]

Yeah its starting to make me really angry . I drilled a really nice piece of ziricote and turned it and when I took it off and looked at the the ends its very visible . You can clearly see a big difference on one side of the tube its thick and the other side is super close . So If I assembled the pen it would be flush on one side of the tip and it would overhang on the other side . Everything appears to be correct . I check the vise itself the table everything and its all level . It like the drill press is drilling at a angle but Its hard to tell .

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

Jordan - Drilling can be frustrating but unless you really need to be spot on (like for some segmented blanks), there's forgiveness. Like they mentioned above, use a light touch and clear the waste often.
But from your posts, it sounds to me like there's something else going on. Even if the hole you drill is off a bit, once you install the brass tube and put it on the lathe, the tube defines the center of the turning. It can be a little hard to turn to a cylinder, but eventually it gets "round" and you go from there. Suggest you check your pen bushings to make sure the hole is centered in them.

 

[jttheclockman]

Yeah its starting to make me really angry . I drilled a really nice piece of ziricote and turned it and when I took it off and looked at the the ends its very visible . You can clearly see a big difference on one side of the tube its thick and the other side is super close . So If I assembled the pen it would be flush on one side of the tip and it would overhang on the other side . Everything appears to be correct . I check the vise itself the table everything and its all level . It like the drill press is drilling at a angle but Its hard to tell .

Jordan, I agree with Ted. You have other issues than drilling straight. That is definetly not your problem. Do a search here for OOR (out of round) blanks and problems. You will find a whole host of reasons this could happen. Also you will find some remedies too. That is your homework

As for drilling blanks with a drill press. I think just about all factors were covered well. Within these is probably your answer. Did I mention use a sharp bit??? Blanks like the one shown are not that critical so just turn as you normally will do.

 

[RetiredJake]

I've seen a lot of responses about verifying the table is square to the bit, but nothing about the blank being square to the bit. You state the table is square to the bit. Now, mount a blank in the vise and verify that the blank is square to the bit. You could have blanks that are not square, grooves in the vise that are not square, etc.

After that is all said and done, you will get more accuracy drilling on the lathe.

Jake

 

[KenV]

Jordan -- perhaps you have hinted that you are measuring the wrong thing. "Level" of the table has only luck to relate it to the quill of the drill press table or the vise you are using. It takes me a couple of hours to tram and shim my old craftsman drill press table. And the vise block (Paul Huffman style vise on a wood block will be off a bit. Bumping the drill press table hard can move it and cause another opportunity to check the tramming.

Your photos suggest you have not trammed your setup.

 

[toddlajoie]

Based on your last post, Ted & JT have the big issue's point... Drilling off like your first photo is an issue only gig you're trying to keep segmenting centered. If it's still off cente so the brass tube after you've rounded it on the lathe, the lathe ( or something involved in it, mandrel, bushings, centers, or the lathe itself ) are the bigger issue to look into, and refine your drilling separately, as they are not related issues. All the suggestions on drilling are spot on, but based on your last post, your first issue is "out of round" on the lathe.

 

[Jordan Gilbert]

I found out the problem , the drill press as it goes farther down moves over . So for the first 1/2 on any piece of wood with the vise or without its dead straight then it moves over and goes at a angle . So somethings wrong with the actual drill press .

 

[Kenny Durrant]

I have a vice just like yours and I had the same problem. The problem is that the vice is fixed to the base on one end and it floats on the other side. Although the blank stays centered when one side floats and one doesn't there is enough play to cause the drill not to drill straight. The longer the blank the more off center it will be. To solve the problem I found an old kitchen knife blade and used it as a shim on the end opposite of the fixed side. After that I save enough money to buy one from Rockler that both vice jaws float on top of a rail. I think the new Penstate cat. has a picture of a shim with their vice. Good Luck.

 

[NotURMailman]

You could always drill a little and then raise the bit back up, then raise the table and drill some more. Do it in maybe 4 steps. That is if the DP only gets off after a certain amount of travel. Sounds like a problem with the DP quill mechanism.

 

[jzerger]

I have the same problem with the drill press; the further down the more angle. I use the lathe and a pen blank chuck for all my pens. But for duck calls (or larger blanks 1.5"-2" and 4-plus inches long) that won't fit in the chuck) i have to use the drill press. I seem to have better luck drilling about halfway and then turning the blank over and drilling from the other end. So...if it's off much it's in the middle (more glue needed in some cases). Also I can use shorter drill bits (and "steps" as described above)which seems to help.