Drilling Pen Blanks (Big Help Needed!)

[VE5MDH]

Ladies & Gentlemen of the IAP...

Items in inventory:

MT2:
- Rikon 70-220VSR from Lee Valley (Set to 615-620 RPM for this task)
- Jacob's Chuck (Lee Valley Tools) (Tail Stock)
- 3/8" Drill Bit HSS (PSI) (Tail Stock)
- Baracuda2 4 Jaw Chuck (PeachTree in GA) (Head Stock)
- PSI C Series Pen Jaws for the Bolt Action Pen Kits (PSI) (Head Stock)


View in Gallery

Now these tubes are not glued in the blanks yet. They are just sitting inside the blanks.

I need your honest opinion on the air gap between the tubes and the blanks.

These were drilled using the above configuration.

On one of the blanks above, I used a 23/64" bit, but the hole was too small for the brass tube to enter into the hole! So I ended up chasing a 3/8" bit through the hole. These 3/8" holes for the Bolt Action Pen Kit (PSI), just seems to be way too large or oversized holes drilled in the blanks.

It is my own opinion that it may seem that there must be some sort of wobble making the holes slightly larger than they should be. Now, I could be very wrong, and these may be drilled right down the keister! (You know... Zero Tolerance).

You spend this kind of money, and you expect that there should be NO AIR GAP down the centreline! (Am I just too much of a perfectionist?). The PSI Pen Jaws Instruction Sheet was followed to the Tee.

Please share your thoughts, observations, ideas, comments or even rants! Remember now, these blanks are not glued in.

Michael

 

[VE5MDH]

Oh, the wood pictured is (from left to right):

White Oak
Cocobolo
Padauk
Padauk
Caragana

 

[TonyL]

I was never able to make anything close to concentric with variances like that. Out of every 30 barrels, i will get one like that usually when it's a longer barrel and drilled on a drill press as opposed to my lathe. I would love to know what others do to line-up the center of the tube holding the hardware with the outside circumference of the barrel material.

 

[jallan]

Michael, I am no expert but it looks to me as there is a wobble going on when drilled. I use a Nova chuck with their extension to drill pen blanks and have no gaps at all. From the pictures I can see the tube hole is uneven which means a wobble to me. Check all your drilling parts when drilling to see which part is wobbling.( I would use some scrap wood for this). Hope this helps. Also your tailstock may be loose at the bottom. (Just a thought).

 

[VE5MDH]

Oh, thanks for reminding me Tony! I cut the tubes down to just a few mm's larger than the chuck jaws! - Which is also just larger than the tubes for the Bolt Action Pen Kits.

 

[VE5MDH]

Thanks for the input Jallan! I'm trying real hard to isolate where this wobble may be coming from! The Cocobolo blank seemed to be the easiest to drill through, but it too ended up as the worst!

These are ALL NEW PARTS!!! This really sucks! I was expecting BANG ON Bullseye, as I was watching / reading on YouTube when Pen Turners use these PSI Jaws.

 

[edstreet]

Ok from the photo what we are seeing is over drilled holes. The drill bit is to large. What info is needed is this. What is the diameter of the brass tube?

The 'step up' you have may not be the next size up buy the 4th or 5th size up.

 

[edstreet]

However,

You mentioned "bolt action" (I missed this on my other post) This kit has some thickness to it so it's not wasted. What you need is something that will FILL the void. Some very thick build up epoxy such as bedding compound. Something design to fill the large voids and offer protection and full support.

I would suggest acraglas epoxy.

 

[monophoto]

Have you checked to make sure that the tail stock and head stock are correctly aligned? If they are not, then stationary bit in the tailstock jacobs chuck was appear to 'wobble' when the hole is drilled, with the result that it will be oversized.

 

[VE5MDH]

Edstreet, best info to date! Thanks. Sorry for the delay. My digital calliper was misplaced.

OK, OD of PSI #PKCP3000TU = 0.365"

White Oak ID = Drill Entry 0.41", Exit 0.39" (Head Stock Side)
Cocobolo ID = Drill Entry 0.407", Exit 0.391"
Padauk ID = Drill Entry 0.402", Exit 0.39"
Padauk ID = Drill Entry 0.4005", Exit 0.366"
Caragana ID = Drill Entry 0.408", Exit 0.395"

Any further info needed? Please ask & I'll do my best to supply.

 

[VE5MDH]

I was planning on using a 20 Minute Hobby Epoxy (Finish-Cure), made in the USA by Bob Smith Ind. (P/N: BSI210)

Looks like I'll be playing with it (kneading it to thicken it up) before I roll the tubes in it. Will need to be more like 5 minute epoxy before I insert the tubes in the blanks.


Will put in the 2 points in the lathe to verify (again) the point to point contact. I don't like the looseness of the jaws in the Baracuda 2 clamp though! The allen key is tight (should be set with 2, like the chuck is designed to be!).

Will do this after Survivor.

 

[edstreet]

Try a 'U' bit.


....

your tube is 0.365" The next 'size up' is 'U' (0.368"), larger than that is your 3/8" (0.375")

Also if you want to reduce your slop factor then reduce the feed pressure. Step drilling may also help to. The entry/exit is not bad and no real cause for alarm in this case.

 

[robutacion]

Well, I can't see if the hole is centered both sides and from the pics I see, I don't think they are that out of centre so, miss alignment of tail stock and spindle, don't seem to be the problem.

This has been an issue that has been as old as people started to make pens and, has been proven that, can be a number of factors that contribute to oval shaped holes.

I can also tell you that, being a new bit, means very little, some bits cut better than other, some tend to follow its own pass and even new bits have defects or are less than accurate.

The woods you drilled into, are quite good woods to drill however being more on the dense/hard side than soft, these denser woods seem to be less forgiven that medium to soft woods, this is I believe due to the heat and friction exerted from the bit cutting edges and they ability to clear chips more effectively.

One of the testes I would be performing would be get a new bit and a different type bit, make sure you get the correct size, too tight can be a problem to glue and will not allow, the painting of the tubes and or reverse painting when necessary, to large or too oval of a hole can be a loss if the kit you are using allows very minimal wood/acrylic/material over the tube diameter.

Trying a different bit, with the exact same settings you use now, will tell you if the drill bit is the problem or, you have other issues with the set-up..!

Good luck,

Cheers
George

 

[JD Combs Sr]

Edstreet, best info to date! Thanks. Sorry for the delay. My digital calliper was misplaced.

OK, OD of PSI #PKCP3000TU = 0.365"

White Oak ID = Drill Entry 0.41", Exit 0.39" (Head Stock Side)
Cocobolo ID = Drill Entry 0.407", Exit 0.391"
Padauk ID = Drill Entry 0.402", Exit 0.39"
Padauk ID = Drill Entry 0.4005", Exit 0.366"
Caragana ID = Drill Entry 0.408", Exit 0.395"

Any further info needed? Please ask & I'll do my best to supply.

Based on what I see here I would say that your headstock and tailstock are not inline with each other, ie. the center lines are not the same. Even if they appear to lineup using pointed centers one could be turned slightly. A slightly turned headstock would give you a nice round but bigger hole then the drill bit being used plus you may not see any wobble. Does the headstock on your Rickon swivel? If so I would double check that it is on centerline of the lathe and that the spindle is parallel to the lathe center line. A slightly rotated tailstock could create the same problem but it is less likely unless it is very loose between the ways.

 

[alphageek]

Edstreet, best info to date! Thanks. Sorry for the delay. My digital calliper was misplaced.

OK, OD of PSI #PKCP3000TU = 0.365"

White Oak ID = Drill Entry 0.41", Exit 0.39" (Head Stock Side)
Cocobolo ID = Drill Entry 0.407", Exit 0.391"
Padauk ID = Drill Entry 0.402", Exit 0.39"
Padauk ID = Drill Entry 0.4005", Exit 0.366"
Caragana ID = Drill Entry 0.408", Exit 0.395"

Any further info needed? Please ask & I'll do my best to supply.

Here is my thoughts....
1) your Drill bit should be .375 (3/8), which is a good match for the .365 that the kit tube is.
2) with the weird exception of #4 (typo? because its smaller than the bit???) Your numbers are relatively consistant so whatever your problem is its reproducable - thats good.

So... I'd be curious - Use the bit to drill through something thinner like a 1/4" thick piece of scrap (so the bit can't be off or wander)... Is that hole closer to .375?

If thats more as expected, then either something is off in your setup or your bit isn't sharp enough. I highly recommend a drill doctor - it makes a HUGE improvement on drilling - even some brand new bits aren't very sharp.

If its setup, there could be a couple things.. for example, if the bit is parallel to the centerline but not on centerline - it wouldn't take much to make a bigger hole than expected. Check tailstock to headstock lineup (with points in each).. Then check headstock to drill bit alignment if the previous lines up. That will get you the first couple of possible issues.

The only thing that I personally wouldn't recommend is just blindly changing to a different drill bit size. If you do and the root problem is a setup issue, you'll have to test and pick different size bits than the recommended for every kit you try!

Good luck - Let us know what you find.

 

[BigNick73]

Besides checking the wobble maybe try the 23/64" bit on another blank, if it's still too small try folding a strip of 150 grit sandpaper over your knock out tool and sanding the hole out to a better fit.

I've have this happen sometimes, I started using 5 minute epoxy on all my pens. It'll fill those voids and you don't ever have a tube set half way in like using CA. I know I lost a couple of early pens to drops, and blowouts because of voids like that.

 

[VE5MDH]

Looks like I have some Googling to do! So far I have found this:

Walter R Hammond Co - industrial supplies - cutting tools - coolants

 

[edstreet]

Looks like I have some Googling to do! So far I have found this: Walter R Hammond Co - industrial supplies - cutting tools - coolants

http://grizzly.com/products/TiN-Coated-115-pc-Drill-Bit-Set/G3658

 

[magpens]

You used a 23/64" = 0.359" bit and the hole was too small. That bit, was it from a reliable set of bits ? Try the 3/8" bit from the same set.

I would never trust a bit that you got from .... ( you know, that place you got it )

John's suggestion that you try a "U" bit is good, but you may not have one and living where you do you can't just dash out and buy one. I use a "U" bit all the time when I am working with the Bolt Action tubes and others the same size but I do mostly acrylics.
With wood, you may find the "U" gives you too small a hole, because the wood expands a little with the bit inside it and then contracts when the bit comes out.

I honestly don't think there is anything wrong with your lathe setup because, apart from being too big the holes look well-formed.

EDIT: Are these the jaws you are using ? They should be OK, but there should be no movement on chuck when you try to wiggle them

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/CJAWPEN.html

 

[alphageek]

Looks like I have some Googling to do! So far I have found this:

Walter R Hammond Co - industrial supplies - cutting tools - coolants

I still say look into the Drill doctor 500 or 750! Even the BEST bit will get dull. The DD makes even a cheap bit work really well. You're showing all wood - when you get to acrylic it will get even more important!

 

[VE5MDH]

You used a 23/64" = 0.359" bit and the hole was too small. That bit, was it from a reliable set of bits ? Try the 3/8" bit from the same set.

I would never trust a bit that you got from .... ( you know, that place you got it )

John's suggestion that you try a "U" bit is good, but you may not have one and living where you do you can't just dash out and buy one. I use a "U" bit all the time when I am working with the Bolt Action tubes and others the same size but I do mostly acrylics.
With wood, you may find the "U" gives you too small a hole, because the wood expands a little with the bit inside it and then contracts when the bit comes out.

I honestly don't think there is anything wrong with your lathe set-up because, apart from being too big the holes look well-formed.

EDIT: Are these the jaws you are using ? They should be OK, but there should be no movement on chuck when you try to wiggle them

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/CJAWPEN.html

Yes, and they are attached to my PSI Barracuda 2 Chuck, Original Jaws have been removed, and set aside.

Suggesting the U bit and FINDING one are complete opposites! I've been able to locate a single source so far, not too sure if they even ship to Canada.

Oh, and my main focus on the Bolt Action Pens from PSI is Antler, NOT wood. I'm just working out my centre / wobble issues before I waste my stock of Deer, Elk, Moose & Prong Horns!

And yes, I do agree, the holes look real nice and round, just much larger than I bargained for!

 

[magpens]

A "proper good" 3/8" drill bit should do a good job for you.

I think the drill bit that you used might be bent. Try rolling it on the kitchen counter.

 

[Skewer]

When you start cutting with the drill bit - observe and see if the bit seems to be cutting on both sides, or if it's out of line and only cutting on one side, making a bigger hole. As monophoto alluded to, if it is out of line, this can happen.

 

[qquake]

I can't comment on your particular issues, since I don't drill blanks that way. I drill square and round blanks with my drill press, in a vise with a prismatic jaw. They don't always drill straight through, but at least the holes are completely round and not oversize. For the first antler pen I did, I used a different method. Since the antler is odd shaped on the outside, I needed a way to drill through the thickest part. I used the method in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAEEaF8z2jM

It worked out very well. I marked the ends where I wanted to drill with a transfer punch through one of the bushings. I drilled it most of the way through on the lathe, then finished the hole on the drill press. I used a DeWalt bullet point 3/8" drill bit.

 

[VE5MDH]

Looks like I have some Googling to do! So far I have found this: Walter R Hammond Co - industrial supplies - cutting tools - coolants

Shop our G3658 - TiN Coated 115 pc. Drill Bit Set at Grizzly.com

Thanks Ed! Looks like a sweet answer to many issues! AND they ship to Canada too! (Eh!)...

 

[edstreet]

Wait wait wait!!!


There are Canadian companies who stock this and similar ones. May be cheaper for you. I did not realize you were in Canada.

 

[VE5MDH]

When you start cutting with the drill bit - observe and see if the bit seems to be cutting on both sides, or if it's out of line and only cutting on one side, making a bigger hole. As monophoto alluded to, if it is out of line, this can happen.

This is what I first noted as I brought the bit ever so close to the wood. The cutter closest to me (horizontal by my belly button), hit the wood first!

Hence the idea of posting this online to see if this could have been my issue (without me mentioning this situation) - Root of my problem. So this now seems to be the case.

Thanks for bringing this to light.

 

[VE5MDH]

QQuake, Thanks Jim for sharing! Yes, I've watched your video a few times before, and I want to experiment with a few of my antlers on this technique. It looks simple and effective.

Are you noticing these elongated entry hole issues? or are you pretty square on?

 

[VE5MDH]

Wait wait wait!!!


There are Canadian companies who stock this and similar ones. May be cheaper for you. I did not realize you were in Canada.

Our problem is we are in the middle of NO WHERE, Saskatchewan! Like when I say NO WHERE! I Mean NO Where! 3 Hour drive to go grocery shopping! Oh ya and our roads SUCK too!

Good thing I just found a site that is selling the same Grizzly 115 set for $49.99cdn! Bonus sale this week at Princess Auto (Canada's answer to Harbour Freight Tools). There is one on the north side of Saskatoon. Yee Haw, I say!

115 pc Titanium Coated High Speed Steel Drill Bit Set | Princess Auto

 

[CREID]

This is one of those topics with lots of opinions of what is happening, so I hesitate, but I have had this problem and I will share what I have found. I now take a gouge and make a small dimple in the end of the blank to guide the drill bit to center when I drill on the lathe. Sometimes (and it may be only slight) the end of the blank isn't perfectly square and your bit wanders just a tad as it enters the blank, causing an oblong hole on one end after drilling. Like I said there are lots of opinions and many are right under there own circumstances, you will have to experiment.
Just my 2 1/2 cents.

Curt

 

[qquake]

QQuake, Thanks Jim for sharing! Yes, I've watched your video a few times before, and I want to experiment with a few of my antlers on this technique. It looks simple and effective.

Are you noticing these elongated entry hole issues? or are you pretty square on?

This is the one and only blank of any sort I've drilled this way. Yes, the entry and exit holes were spot on. They're spot on in other blanks I drill on the drill press, too. But like I said, sometimes it doesn't drill completely straight. I haven't figured out why.

 

[VE5MDH]

Edstreet, best info to date! Thanks. Sorry for the delay. My digital calliper was misplaced.

OK, OD of PSI #PKCP3000TU = 0.365"

White Oak ID = Drill Entry 0.41", Exit 0.39" (Head Stock Side)
Cocobolo ID = Drill Entry 0.407", Exit 0.391"
Padauk ID = Drill Entry 0.402", Exit 0.39"
Padauk ID = Drill Entry 0.4005", Exit 0.366"
Caragana ID = Drill Entry 0.408", Exit 0.395"

Any further info needed? Please ask & I'll do my best to supply.

Here is my thoughts....
1) your Drill bit should be .375 (3/8), which is a good match for the .365 that the kit tube is.
2) with the weird exception of #4 (typo? because its smaller than the bit???) Your numbers are relatively consistant so whatever your problem is its reproducable - thats good.

So... I'd be curious - Use the bit to drill through something thinner like a 1/4" thick piece of scrap (so the bit can't be off or wander)... Is that hole closer to .375?

If thats more as expected, then either something is off in your setup or your bit isn't sharp enough. I highly recommend a drill doctor - it makes a HUGE improvement on drilling - even some brand new bits aren't very sharp.

If its setup, there could be a couple things.. for example, if the bit is parallel to the centerline but not on centerline - it wouldn't take much to make a bigger hole than expected. Check tailstock to headstock lineup (with points in each).. Then check headstock to drill bit alignment if the previous lines up. That will get you the first couple of possible issues.

The only thing that I personally wouldn't recommend is just blindly changing to a different drill bit size. If you do and the root problem is a setup issue, you'll have to test and pick different size bits than the recommended for every kit you try!

Good luck - Let us know what you find.

Ya, I do agree too. The 4th one, the second Padauk exited one way at 0.366" I'll re-check that number... Wow I just opened a can of worms here!

0.375" one way and turn it 90 deg, and I get a value of 0.3.65 - But on the other end I get 0.400 & 90 deg = 0.402! Go figure that mess out now!

I'll measure the bit and the point 2 point in the morning.

 

[Skie_M]

Ladies & Gentlemen of the IAP...

Items in inventory:

MT2:
- Rikon 70-220VSR from Lee Valley (Set to 615-620 RPM for this task)
- Jacob's Chuck (Lee Valley Tools) (Tail Stock)
- 3/8" Drill Bit HSS (PSI) (Tail Stock)
- Baracuda2 4 Jaw Chuck (PeachTree in GA) (Head Stock)
- PSI C Series Pen Jaws for the Bolt Action Pen Kits (PSI) (Head Stock)


View in Gallery

Now these tubes are not glued in the blanks yet. They are just sitting inside the blanks.

I need your honest opinion on the air gap between the tubes and the blanks.

These were drilled using the above configuration.

On one of the blanks above, I used a 23/64" bit, but the hole was too small for the brass tube to enter into the hole! So I ended up chasing a 3/8" bit through the hole. These 3/8" holes for the Bolt Action Pen Kit (PSI), just seems to be way too large or oversized holes drilled in the blanks.

It is my own opinion that it may seem that there must be some sort of wobble making the holes slightly larger than they should be. Now, I could be very wrong, and these may be drilled right down the keister! (You know... Zero Tolerance).

You spend this kind of money, and you expect that there should be NO AIR GAP down the centreline! (Am I just too much of a perfectionist?). The PSI Pen Jaws Instruction Sheet was followed to the Tee.

Please share your thoughts, observations, ideas, comments or even rants! Remember now, these blanks are not glued in.

Michael

Didn't read the entire thread, so someone may have come up with this solution already...

I think the issue is either mis-alignment or a bent drill bit. A bent bit is the easiest one to check for .... go to a flat surface ... a countertop or desktop, perhaps a table, and ROLL the suspect bit across the surface. If it rolls unevenly, or you can see a wobble in the tip as it rolls, it's bent and will give you an oversized hole.

Mis-alignment is generally easy to check for. Take your tailstock with a 60 degree cone center and put a cone center in the headstock as well. Bring your tailstock up and lock it down. Make sure that it lines up with your headstock center perfectly, with NO deflection in any direction, up, down, left, right... it needs to be perfect if you plan to drill on the lathe.

Mis-alignment can also occur further down the lathe ways ... to check for that, you'll want an alignment bar and a dial gauge, but for woodworking purposes you can usually skip this if your centers are aligned.


Beyond that, make ABSOLUTELY SURE your morse tapers are clean and free of all debris .... don't put anything in there other than a morse taper. No oil, nothing. If anything gets in there and is stuck, it will throw off the seating of your tool and will result in boring oversized holes. Look in there with a good strong flashlight ... clean it with a brass shotgun cleaning brush or something else that won't scratch up the inside of the taper. Also make sure the outside of the taper rod is clean.

Make sure that when you install the drill chuck for the drilling operation that the very center of the drill chuck is also on center with the headstock of the lathe .... chuck a small drill bit in the drill chuck and bring the point of the bit right up to the spur center in your headstock. If the drill chuck is bent, it's worse than a bent bit.


Make sure that the chuck jaws hold your workpiece securely so that there is no wobble in it at all. If you have to, shim (with small slips of brass shim stock) between the chuck jaws and the chuck body to achieve a uniform and perfectly square grip on your stock. Set it once, and you'll never have to worry again when drilling perfectly squared stock. Anything else, and you will want to turn it round between centers before putting it in your pen jaws to drill. If it's a perfect straight cylinder, it will work in your pen jaws with no problem.


That's it ... that's all I can offer you for ways to check for the problem... Good Luck!

 

[MikeinSC]

Here's my 2¢. Did you use a Brad point bit? Those tend to wander for me on occasion and I get exactly that. The entry hole is slightly larger. Also, swarth can enlarge a hole as well if not cleaned out. Not always, but it can.

When this happens on wood pieces I have coated the inside of the hole with thin CA and then come back with either gorilla glue or thick CA to fill the gap. The thin ca will help harden the inside of the wood if you have a soft wood. Chase it with the drill bit by hand to knock down any high spots tgat could hang up the tube. Don't use a lot of moisture when using gorilla glue on wood as the wood will expand slightly and then contract when it dries out again. If you use CA as a finish, that wood movement can crack your CA finish.

 

[magpens]

Good thing I just found a site that is selling the same Grizzly 115 set for $49.99cdn! Bonus sale this week at Princess Auto (Canada's answer to Harbour Freight Tools). There is one on the north side of Saskatoon. Yee Haw, I say!

115 pc Titanium Coated High Speed Steel Drill Bit Set | Princess Auto

DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY AND TIME ON THIS SET. I DID.

Afterwards I bought Norseman bits. You can buy sets but they are about $100+ per set.

If you go to a good Machine Tool Store like KMS Tools (which doesn't have a store in Sask.) then you can buy individual bits. A "U" bit or a 3/8" bit will cost you about $12 -15 each. If you want, I can help you get in touch with the Headquarters store here in Coquitlam. I think they will do a mail order to you. Phone them ... KMSTools.com ... ask for Ron Gerrett in the Hand Tools Dept. Tell Ron I sent you. He knows me well.

Another good Canadian store is KBCTools.com and they will definitely do mail-order. They may not have Norseman, but their products are pretty good. No problem buying individual bits from them. Minimum order is $25.

Don't buy bits from Princess Auto or from Busybee.

You'll never regret buying decent bits.

It's probably a 2-3 hr drive to Regina or Saskatoon, so take a little money and buy yourself a present.

Norseman from KMS (or other Machine Tool stores) has 3 sets, a Fractional set (1/16" - 1/2"), a Metric set (1 mm - 13 mm), and a Letter set (A - Z). Each set is $100+, but buy just the bits you need if they will sell them that way.

In the Princess Auto set, you will never use the Numbered bits; they are all too small for pens. They don't include Metric and you'll need some metrics as you move on to making different kits, like a "Cigar" kit or a "Jr Gent 2" kit.

If you want a list of commonly used bits for pen making send me a PM and I'll be glad to tell you what I use. It would help if you can tell me the kits you are likely to use.

 

[Sabaharr]

Possibly a bent bit (It happened to me). Even a slight bend can make a difference in hole size and you can't see it wobble. Have you measured the tube diameters to see if they are spot on? Should be since the holes are different sizes on the ends.

 

[VE5MDH]

QQuake, Thanks Jim for sharing! Yes, I've watched your video a few times before, and I want to experiment with a few of my antlers on this technique. It looks simple and effective.

Are you noticing these elongated entry hole issues? or are you pretty square on?

This is the one and only blank of any sort I've drilled this way. Yes, the entry and exit holes were spot on. They're spot on in other blanks I drill on the drill press, too. But like I said, sometimes it doesn't drill completely straight. I haven't figured out why.

Jim, I have a Pen Vice too. Purchased from Woodcraft in Florida. What I don't like about that one is that there is a very slim, 1/32" gap at the bottom of the clamp (actually its the thickness of a credit card!) where, once you apply pressure from the drill press onto the blank, the blank sinks that 1/32", and you end up with an out of round blank! Poor design flaw not seen.

Buy Pen Makers' Center Drilling Vise at Woodcraft.com

Pissed me off enough that I duplicated my MT1 setup to a MT2 upgrade.

For this being a CHEAP Setup, I have forked out more than $5,000.00 (and I still need to buy more items to clean this mess up!!!). Oh, and I have yet to sell a single pen! That's what just sucks about this Fabulous idea.

 

[edstreet]

Non-round holes.

Yes you can indeed drill non-round holes and fairly easy to. The subject is called rotary broaching. It is a very real thing and yes you can indeed DRILL square holes.

 

[mark james]

Afterwards I bought Norseman bits. You can buy sets but they are about $100+ per set.

If you go to a good Machine Tool Store like KMS Tools (which doesn't have a store in Sask.) then you can buy individual bits. A "U" bit or a 3/8" bit will cost you about $12 -15 each.

Norseman from KMS (or other Machine Tool stores) has 3 sets, a Fractional set (1/16" - 1/2"), a Metric set (1 mm - 13 mm), and a Letter set (A - Z). Each set is $100+, but buy just the bits you need if they will sell them that way.

FWIW : I will second the Norseman Bits. Very expensive... Will never need to buy it again (I also have a Drill Doctor).

 

[VE5MDH]

Afterwards I bought Norseman bits. You can buy sets but they are about $100+ per set.

If you go to a good Machine Tool Store like KMS Tools (which doesn't have a store in Sask.) then you can buy individual bits. A "U" bit or a 3/8" bit will cost you about $12 -15 each.

Norseman from KMS (or other Machine Tool stores) has 3 sets, a Fractional set (1/16" - 1/2"), a Metric set (1 mm - 13 mm), and a Letter set (A - Z). Each set is $100+, but buy just the bits you need if they will sell them that way.

FWIW : I will second the Norseman Bits. Very expensive... Will never need to buy it again (I also have a Drill Doctor).

Will make a purchase of the Norseman Bits once I am able to sell some of these pens we are making.

Here is what the cheap set does:

Entry Side 3/8"

Exit Side 3/8"

I'm impressed with this set - Of course they have no longevity, no problems here. We're just looking on figuring out what went wrong here.

I think I have my answer tonight.

The PSI 3/8" HHS bits we purchased are too SOFT! I saw them wobble like crazy. These Chinese Titanium Coated Bits went in real nice (nice and fresh bits too, I understand). I just need them to drill through 15 Antlers, so I have a chance on making a purchase towards Norseman bits!

Thanks all!