Drilling Deer Antler on a Lathe

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TonyL

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A friend of mine gave me about 3 feet of deer antler. I has been drying for over 10 years. He didn't have the heart to throw it out, then I made him a pen and he asked me about it.

I don't have a drill press, but there are plenty of relatively straight or slightly curved sections. I do have a TS jig that allows be straighten-out some of the curves (by cutting them off). How do I hold and drill on a lathe, please?

Thank you!
 
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TonyL

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Thank you both. I will never learn as much as Les may have forgotten - truly one of the best turners that there are. However, I was told, perhaps incorrectly, that it is dangerous to place the drill chuck in the head stock.

I may try Eric's proposed method first.

Thanks again.
 

NittanyLion

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Using His method keeps the Jacobs chuck in place and it really can't come out. If your pieces are rather straight, it's easier to do as Eric mentioned.
 

wyone

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basically a draw bar is just a threaded rod that goes into the MT2 adapter and extends through the headstock and is locked in place with a nut on the outside of the headstock handwheel. You can make your own out of probably 1/4 or 5/16 threaded rod depending on what threads are in your MT2 adapter
 

TonyL

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Good one! I missed this one. I am still leery about the headstock and drill chuck. I will research. Great find Warren!
 

southernclay

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I haven't used a drawbar but if the back of your Jacobs chuck will take a threaded rod that's the better way. I understand in theory how they work but practical experience is zero. Touch base if you need anything else on it. I'm out of pocket a lot this weekend but if I miss you will follow up.
 

TonyL

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Thanks to all of you, I now know what a draw bar is. Now, I wonder why they aren't always used. It looks like an important piece of safety equipment.
 

wyone

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I think it is one of those. how often could you have an issue.. and probably very rarely.. but that one time.. could be VERY bad

I know I used to have a drill press that just had a MT2 drill chuck in it. It had no other safety mechanism. In fact it came with a special tool that was designed to force the chuck off with a tapered key. But then again, all the pressure was vertical, so I think the hazard was less than a lathe where it is horizontal as well.
 
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Tom T

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Tony,
Thank you for this series of questions I learned a lot also. I have a bunch of antler to turn. Now I might give it a try.
 

TonyL

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You are welcome. I am glad that others benefited. I have to figure out what threads I have on my drill chuck and make or buy a draw bar. Thanks for all of the advice folks!
 

KenV

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Threads for draw bars are commonly 1/4 by 20 (what I have) 3/8 by 16 and Metric M10 mm (usually M10 by 1.5)

The vacuum connection limits me to 1/4 by 20 so I get those specifically -- Others are out there.

Avoid the drill press adapters without threads for head stock use

Also used in the headstock with draw bar are MT screw chucks and some utility chucks, and MT collet chucks.
 

KenV

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And I missed my Ruth Niles Bottle stopper Mandrel -- 1/4 by 20 thread for the draw bar. I use that for Christmas ornaments too
 

TonyL

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Thank you Ken, but, I am confused Ken. Are you identifying draw bars for me to buy or make?
 

KenV

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Thank you Ken, but, I am confused Ken. Are you identifying draw bars for me to buy or make?


I have always made my own (and made a couple for the local high school lathes) using all thread and a propel nut (tee nut) on a turned knob. I use a small file to dress the ends of the all thread.

A piece of 1/4 by 20 all thread rod, the propel nut on the outboard side of the knob - and things do not come loose.


I drive a stubby rigged for vacuum chucking with a 3/8 quick connect fitting on the outboard end = the draw bar needs to be pretty long, and on the little deltas at the high school, they were less than a foot long. A 3 foot piece of all thread rod makes lots of draw bars.
 
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