drilling blanks on the lathe

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gmssms

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I've read several posts where the preference is to drill out the pen blank on the lathe. I have a few questions regarding this.

1. How much travel does your tailstock have? My JET Mini lathe and the drill chuck I have will only get about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches.

2. With that short distance I am thinking the etchnique would be to drill as far as possible, frequently backing out to clear the chips and flute. then slide the talstock in closer and repeat, though this time in clearing backing the tailstock off then sliding it up again.

3. Does drilling this way cause excess stress on the tailstock?

4. Does a 7mm drill bit exist that would slide through the tailstock hole (3/8 inch if I recall properly) that would be long enough to drill out the blanks. The bit could be held in its' own handle, etc.

I've also though about trying to handhold a bit for this, using it in a drill or handled chuck of some sort. Just wonder how much drift I would get. I don't think that would work out to well.

Unfortunately with almost no room left in the shop (ok garage with 2 cars parked inside) I have no room for a floor DP. Thinking about thr Ryobi benchtop model, just need to try to place it somewhere. Currentl I use an old Craftsamn DP with only 2 inches of travel and do the lift up the blank vise and slide a 3/4 inch piece of plywood under it.

That is why I'm thinking of using the lathe for drilling the blanks. It'll save me the trouble of trying to squeeze everything in.

Thanks! in advace for any advice!

Gerry
 
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bonefish

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When I use an undersize blank, I drill it on my lathe. The lathe drills much straighter than I can do on my drillpress. I have had the drill come out of the edge on small blanks.

It is like yours, a Craftsman table model with two inches of travel.

Just be sure to back the drill out frequently and clean out the chips.

The only problem I have had with drilling on the lathe is that there is no way to support the end of the blank, and when the drill breaks through, there is a good chaance the blank will burst. It can happen with wood, but plastic is especially fragile. Someone on here said they carefully measure the length of the tubes and drill from each end, leaving a small amount of material between the drilled holes. By doing this, the end of the drill is supported.

I use the drill press if the blank is just a plain piece of wood, but I use the lathe on the fancy and expensive pieces.

Hope this helps.

Bonefish.
 

Rifleman1776

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What you are describing is an acceptable technique. Some do it as a matter of course. Most, however, use the drill press because it is so much quicker and, with a proper vice, just as accurate.
 

Randy_

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Originally posted by gmssms.....Unfortunately with almost no room left in the shop (ok garage with 2 cars parked inside) I have no room for a floor DP. Thinking about thr Ryobi benchtop model, just need to try to place it somewhere. Currentl I use an old Craftsamn DP with only 2 inches of travel and do the lift up the blank vise and slide a 3/4 inch piece of plywood under it.

Gerry: I know the problem!! I was looking at the Ryobi, too and then discovered the HF DP http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38142 .

If you have a HF store close by, check it out....it won't be such a good deal if you have to pay shipping. I have seen these units on sale for less than the price of the Ryobi and if you happen to have a 20% off Internet coupon, you can really make a killing. I really like the extra slow speeds for use with Forstner bits and the like.

You are almost certainly going to get some responses from folks saying, "...a floor model takes up no more room than a bench model; but they just don't understand that some of us have more bench space than floor space. Just because the HF DP is a bench model, don't think you can hide it away on a shelf and get it out when you need it......it really is a heavy duty unit, more like a floor model with the post cut off..... it weighs 125 lbs. Once you get that sucker located, it isn't going to do much traveling!!
 

Randy_

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Originally posted by bonefish
<br />.....
The only problem I have had with drilling on the lathe is that there is no way to support the end of the blank, and when the drill breaks through, there is a good chaance the blank will burst. It can happen with wood, but plastic is especially fragile. Someone on here said they carefully measure the length of the tubes and drill from each end, leaving a small amount of material between the drilled holes. By doing this, the end of the drill is supported.

Two more ways to deal with this come to mind and there are probably others as well. Drill to within a quarter inch or so of the end on the lathe and finish the hole on the DP with a sacrificial block under the blank. Or use a long blank, drill to the correct depth and then cut the blank to the correct length.

Drilling from both ends can be a little tricky. If your technique is not good, the holes may not line up well enough for a tube to fit properly. It can be done; but you have to be careful.
 

bonefish

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Randy:

When you drill from both ends, you do not connect the holes. Most blanks are from 1/2 inch to an inch longer than the combined length of the two tubes.

From one end, drill to a depth equal to the length of the tube. Then, do the same thing on the other end. You will end up with some material between the bottom of the two holes, and this small amount of wood, plastic, or whatever is what supports the blank when the drill breaks through.

Bonefish
 

Randy_

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OK. I got it. After you drill the holes you cut a 1/2" or so out of the middle of the blank to make two drilled blanks of the proper length. Clever...........!![^][^]
 

gmssms

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Very clever going in from both ends. If you plan it out right the grain pattern would be so close you could line them up easily.

I did the first test on the lathe today. Worked out pretty well. A good Talon chuck and the spigot jaws made mounting the blanks a breeze.

Going to look at the HF DP. I have a store somewhere around here. I plan that as a long term goal since I'll build a rolling cabinet for it. Mount it once and move it wherever I need it. Wasn't aware of the 20% off coupon. Will have to watch for that and sales.

Thanks!

Gerry
 

Randy_

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Originally posted by gmssms
<br />Very clever going in from both ends. If you plan it out right the grain pattern would be so close you could line them up easily.....

Not really, actually. If you use the textbook method of drilling blanks, you only loose one kerf width of wood out of the center of the blank. If you do the "2 hole lathe method", you might loose as much as 1/2" or more of wood and grain pattern from the middle of the blank and make grain matching essentially impossible.

As to the Harbor Freight coupons, these come by email for those who sign up at the web sites for such notifications.

WWW.HARBORFREIGHT.COM Internet store
WWW.HARBORFREIGHTUSA.COM retail stores

According to general information, they are totally different businesses and unrelated except by name. The retail stores will usually honor any special prices offered by the Internet store if you print the ad and take it with you,
 
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