Drill Bits

[programmergeek]

I ordered a 5 different kits/bushing off of craft supply and when I opened it up I saw only one of the 7 drill bits was a brad point all the rest where standard, not even split point! I thought a brad point was recomended, I called craft supply and they said they just give you whatever they have. Should I be using brad points? That is part of the reason I ordered new drills from them so they would be brad points.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Personal preference is 135 degree split points. Some people will say buy cheap and use a drill doctor. Personally i like the the norseman bits as they seem to hold an edge longer. Either way a drill doctor is a must in my book. As for brad points I have not used one since the first 7mm slim line I made. What you should be most concerned with is a sharp bit, keeping the flutes clear so preasure does not build up when you drill, straight bits, drill speed, temperature and drilling in the center.

Mike

 

[GouletPens]

I've used both types, and I'm coming to a preference for standard bits. Keep em sharp and they will do great. I have used BP bits b/c they supposedly drill straighter, but I've found they often wander worse than the standard ones! Maybe the BP's work better with softer woods, but working with really dense burls and stabilized woods, I prefer standard bits.

 

[DurocShark]

Twist bits are much more easily sharpened. And once the hole is started they seem to wander less.

I like the split tip bits for making quick work out of most woods, but dislike them on acrylics/PR/etc.

All that said, most of my bits are brad point. Either the wood river sets from Woodcraft, or Colt 5 Star. I only have 2 split tip: 7mm and 8mm.

 

[fafow]

Don, how do you like the Colt 5 star? I was thinking about buying a few.

 

[DurocShark]

They're wonderful. The quality is top notch. Especially when compared to the cheapie Wood River set. The only problem is cost. They're pretty expensive for a drill bit. bu tyou get what you pay for.

 

[randyrls]

To join the Fray; Brad point bits drill a straight hole in a end grain because the center point of the bit contacts the wood first and prevents "walking". Walking is where a bit will skitter across a surface because of sideways pressure on the very end of the bit. This is worse if the bit is dull or the chisel point isn't symmetrical. The resultant hole doesn't start directly inline with the drill quill, and so drills an out-of-round, or crooked hole. The amount of slop in most drill presses allows this to happen. Have you ever seen a drill bit move sideways when starting to drill? That is "walking".

Drilling metal usually entails making a punch hole in the material at the exact location of the hole, and then drilling a starter hole with a very short, stiff "spotter bit" or a "center drill".