Drill bits

[DCBluesman]

I spent a couple of hours tonight measuring, drilling and tubing some blanks. While changing bits for the 5th time, I said to myself "Self...why do you use these twist bits and not flat wood bits, spur-point bits, or bullet-point bits?" Since I had no answer for myself, I figured someone here could enlighten me. [8D]

 

[Fred in NC]

Why did you change bits? Were they wearing out?

 

[DCBluesman]

Boy was that a poorly worded explanation. No, I was setting up for cigar and slimline pens, European pens, Gentlemen Jr.'s and Americanas. That adds up to a bunch of different SIZED bits. Sorry for not being clearer. [8D]

 

[Doghouse]

The first reason is price.
The second is backer boards to prevent tearout.

THe other bits do cut a cleaner end, but are much harder to sharpen.

 

[DCBluesman]

Thanks, John. I knew there had to be a reason out there!

 

[Scottydont]

I use a quick change adapter in my drill press and use quick change HSS brad point bits. No if I only had a jig that was stepped so I wouldn't have to adjust the height of my drill press table. Standard bits on pen blanks is too much of a PITA.

 

[jwoodwright]

Scott,
This shows a step I made after seeing one also done for a Grizzly Press. Easy to make. Mine is Corian, Ram is bolt embedded in Corian.[8D]

<b>Image Insert:</b><br />

<br /> 74.99&nbsp;KB

 

[jwoodwright]

Lou,
I like the B&D Bullet Bits. I do a lot of Corian and Accrylic also. I do use a Number/Alpha Twist Bit to slightly open the hole as I like Poly. I was getting tube rejection...[] So, I found a slightly larger hole, swab inside of blank with water, poly the tube and twist and push and twist and let the Foaming begin...[]

 

[DCBluesman]

Originally posted by jwoodwright
<br />Scott,
This shows a step I made after seeing one also done for a Grizzly Press. Easy to make. Mine is Corian, Ram is bolt embedded in Corian.[8D]

http://www.penturners.org/olduploads/jwoodwright/20041016680_Penpressv2.jpg[/img]<br /> 74.99 KB

I hate that I can't even figure out how to start making the plate and anvil and step thing. If anybody has a few spare minutes, could you drop me a line on how to do it? I have the press, but an stuck with all kinds of jury rigs to get it to work for me. BTW, I am NOT a woodworker...I just turn some pens. [8D]

 

[DCBluesman]

Originally posted by jwoodwright
<br />Lou,
I like the B&D Bullet Bits. I do a lot of Corian and Accrylic also. I do use a Number/Alpha Twist Bit to slightly open the hole as I like Poly. I was getting tube rejection...[] So, I found a slightly larger hole, swab inside of blank with water, poly the tube and twist and push and twist and let the Foaming begin...[]

Like you, I really like the poly glue for tubes even for wood. Somewhere in Russ Fairchild's stuff I learned to size the bit 1/64 or 1/32 or 1MM larger than recommended so the poly can expand. It works beautifully.

 

[tipusnr]

I've been using the brad point bits myself as they were the ones recommended for accuracy and to minimiz blowouts but I have no way to sharpen them accurately and quickly so am considering twist bits which sharpen in the jig I own.

Has anyone else tried these in their drill presses?

 

[Fred in NC]

PEN PRESS: I found that the best materials for making rams and steps for pen presses are UHMW and nylon. I believe Woodcraft sells a bag with assorted pieces. I got mine from:

www.machinistmaterials.com

This guy sells surplus metal and plastics. You can get a piece of either material for a few dollars, he is very reasonable. Either material will turn well in a wood lathe with wood tools.

I got the Grizzly press too, and I believe I was the original poster in another forum. Grizzly sold out of them very quickly.

 

[Old Griz]

I have used brad points, parabolics, bullet points and vortex bits and of all of them I like the vortex bits the best... they are scary sharp and wander a lot less than the others.. the only down point is price.... so I only have them in the sizes that I use the most... for the others I prefer a bullet point...